ematches - what's the story?

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So, would they or would they not be your first choice for lighting motors?

Ummm no, the reason is that they work great on the CTI and BP motors because both have a BP component, as for the Blue Thunders I have done it but its not as reliable as a First Fire Jr or similar dipped igniter. I only did it because my Crapperhead failed and it was the only ignition source I had so I used one of the Bilusocn ematches, in discussions with others at club launches others have had some success doing its as well, but its nowhere near 100%.
 
Ummm no, the reason is that they work great on the CTI and BP motors because both have a BP component, as for the Blue Thunders I have done it but its not as reliable as a First Fire Jr or similar dipped igniter. I only did it because my Crapperhead failed and it was the only ignition source I had so I used one of the Bilusocn ematches, in discussions with others at club launches others have had some success doing its as well, but its nowhere near 100%.

Thanks for your thoughts on their use. It helps to reinforce my own thoughts on their use :smile:
 
If I use matches to light other motors, I add a secondary dip.
 
Forget 3. Been there, done that. Two kits, unreliable. If one is lighting off pyrotechnics and get a few duds is one thing, failure on a rocket flight is not
a pretty option. Oh, the homemade matches weren't getting to be reliable until I made my own blanks from PC boards as I just so happened to have a reliable bench shear that was given to me that's over 40 years old now. Turned out the reliability seemed to improve after they aged for a few months in cool dry place.

I've never used them but occasionally take one out and pop it with a AAA Nimh or alkaline battery for my entertainment. Off hand I'd say go with the firewire
initiators. Kurt

I agree, after purchasing all the supplies and crafting my own I found the failure rate unacceptable. Go with the Q2G2.
 
Is anyone interested in a how to tutorial on making ematches or igniters? I can't post it here, but I could do a video or post it on another site.
 
If I use matches to light other motors, I add a secondary dip.

Same here. I use the BILUSOCN ematches for deployment charges with no changes. If they are for motor ignition, I add a generous amount of pyrogen dip to them. I try to get a hot, three second burn. I haven't tried starting a larger motor yet as I'm still doing L0 BP and APCP motors, so I'd defer to the other experts here for anything L1+. I don't need to dip the ematches when starting a BP motor.
 
Is anyone interested in a how to tutorial on making ematches or igniters? I can't post it here, but I could do a video or post it on another site.

Interested in your "secondary dip" to use matches as igniters. Thanks in advance.
 
Are you sure people even use the chinese matches for lighting motors? I have used them for ejection charges; they pop rather than fizzle and burn bright which I would think is not very good at lighting a motor. I haven't tried using them to light a motor so somebody who has might speak up.

I use the magnelite kits and wires that PML sells and have had excellent results even lighting motors that are 16 years old.

I was referring to low-current ematches for deployment charges, as in the OP. Making your own is not worth it, IMO.

Motor igniters are a different story. I dipped many a Magnalite to replace Crapperheads with 100% success.
 
I was referring to low-current ematches for deployment charges, as in the OP. Making your own is not worth it, IMO.

Motor igniters are a different story. I dipped many a Magnalite to replace Crapperheads with 100% success.

Have you tried the new low current magnelite and MF wires?
 
This is a great thread. Thanks for the info I was actually wondering how I was going to manage ground testing. I'm going to give the ebay matches a go and see how they work, at that price you can pop a bunch in testing and not have to bat an eyelash at it!
 
Pyrodex works. I have also glued them on the igniter before I dip them.
 
If you can get some, this is the best option ^^^^^!!!!!

Or if one knows somebody who mixes see if they'll give you some leftover clods. Another thing are propellant ribbons that result after drilling grains. I DO NOT recommend storing
a large amount of APCP powder or shavings from machining grains as this stuff is easy to light and flash burns with a vengence. I have a friend who stood too close to a burn pile and it took nearly a year in
a rehab hospital to recover.

A cured clod of propellant is as safe to store as a regular motor grain and one can cut shards off with a fish fillet knife one confines for use with cutting motor grains.

By all means, to avoid "wasting" a good commercial motor, buddy up with a motor maker and see if they'll let you scrape out the mixing bowl.:wink:

Kurt
 
A cured clod of propellant is as safe to store as a regular motor grain and one can cut shards off with a fish fillet knife one confines for use with cutting motor grains.

By all means, to avoid "wasting" a good commercial motor, buddy up with a motor maker and see if they'll let you scrape out the mixing bowl.:wink:

I have been using the same E30-T grain for airstarts and staging for 5 years. A little goes a long way.
 
I save parts from CATOs and what I'd left from blue grains that I have cored. You need to store it the right way and not save the powder.
 
Does anyone know what the story is regarding the Quest Q2G2 igniters? I bought a supply several years ago (thankfully), but see that they are on perpetual backorder from everyone, including Quest.

I test the resistance for each Q2G2 and use them for my DD charges, and never had a failure since I started flying again in 2009.

I have also used the old Newton's Third (similar /same construction to Pratt Hobbies?) prewired ejection canisters and have had 100% success but limited number of flights. I also test their resistance before using.

Mike Momenee
TRA #12430 L3

I have them in stock
 
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