EggTimer Quasar not working....

[darrenf]

All the silkscreened writing on the board faces the same way, and that includes the legends for the EEPROM and port expander chips. The writing on the board is upside-down compared to the writing on the chip... I think the pictures clearly show the orientation. It would be nice if the port expander chip had a detent mark on Pin 1 like the EEPROM does... but it would be nice if I won the lottery, too.

@cerving , Okay, so that means it is on correctly. I did resolder the eeprom as mentioned and still no change. I would like to send it back to you so that it can be looked at to determine the problem. Please advise.

 

[darrenf]

@cerving , any idea when I'm going to get the cable and parts you sent? Now my Quantum, which I have already flown several times is not working. When I power up I get 3 short beeps followed by a long beep. It then beeps 11 times over the next minute before going to a constant endless shrill tone. I am unable to connect via browser and pinging it results in 95% dropped packets.


I am beginning to think that homemade electronics are not for me, and that is severely depressing.

 

[cerving]

So where are you on this? The last thing that I saw was that you were able to determine that it's hanging on the memory check. I can send you another memory chip... assuming that's the problem. It will also hang if there is a bad solder joint on the 472 resistors next to the large FET.

 

[darrenf]

So where are you on this? The last thing that I saw was that you were able to determine that it's hanging on the memory check. I can send you another memory chip... assuming that's the problem. It will also hang if there is a bad solder joint on the 472 resistors next to the large FET.

No change, I resoldered the EEPROM per your last instructions. I am not sure I can successfully desolder the memory chip (though I guess if i'm not concerned about destroying it I can get it off.) Just double checked the 472 resistor. It's fine.

Can you please answer the question presented about the parts and cable? Also, please see my post above your last regarding my Quantum that is now not working.

 

[cerving]

I think you already have a data cable, right? You were able to view the startup diagnostics in post #41...

I'll send you the missing capacitors and a replacement EEPROM for the Quasar.

I have no opinion on the Quantum, did you do a startup test on it? I'm assuming it's in a sled, how do you have it mounted?

 

[darrenf]

I think you already have a data cable, right? You were able to view the startup diagnostics in post #41...

I'll send you the missing capacitors and a replacement EEPROM for the Quasar.

I have no opinion on the Quantum, did you do a startup test on it? I'm assuming it's in a sled, how do you have it mounted?

I bought a cable on Amazon last week to get it quickly, but like everything else today, that also stopped working. That’s why I’m asking, as you said you were going to ship one out.

The Quantum is mounted in a sled. I tried several different batteries.

 

[cerving]

OK, I already sent out the EEPROM and the caps but I'll send you a data interface too.

 

[darrenf]

OK, I already sent out the EEPROM and the caps but I'll send you a data interface too.

Received the Caps and EEPROM today. Ordered this yesterday for delivery tomorrow. Using this rig what would be the best way to desolder the EEPROM?
Any thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RNL7YT9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[waltr]

Without trying to save the part easiest way to cut the legs off the chip. I do this with an X-acto knife or small wire cutters. The idea is not to stress the pads on the PCB.
Then Some solder to remove the legs from the pads. Some solder wick to remove excess solder and alcohol to clean up area & pads to like new.

Now solder new part on per Cris' instructions.

 

[Voyager1]

Without trying to save the part easiest way to cut the legs off the chip. I do this with an X-acto knife or small wire cutters. The idea is not to stress the pads on the PCB.
Then Some solder to remove the legs from the pads. Some solder wick to remove excess solder and alcohol to clean up area & pads to like new.

Now solder new part on per Cris' instructions.

Yes, I'd use the small sharp side cutters to remove the chip. Be very careful if you use the knife. Then heat the remaining lead parts individually with a lightly solder-wetted iron tip and gently wipe the lead off the pad when the solder flows, or remove with fine tweezers. Remove any excess solder on the pad with wick, preferably wetted with a little flux from a pen. As waltr alluded to, don't use too much heat and pressure on the pads.

Edit: I just had a look at the rework station in that link you supplied. I'd be practising on a rubbish board before using that. However, if you do have a go with that setup, I'd probably use the finest nozzle to flow the solder on the chip leads, then use the suction tool, or tweezers, to remove the chip with its leads intact. The method described earlier might be safer at this stage. Good luck!

 

[Jmhepworth]

I once put one of the 8 pin parts on backwards. I took it to our techs at work and asked them if there was anything they could do. They had it off in about five seconds. Counter-intuitively, they added a bunch of solder to each set of four pins and heated both sides up. The part came right off. They then removed the solder with copper wick, turned the part around and resoldered it. No way a non-professional could have done that, but they showed me it is possible and made it look easy at the same time.

 

[darrenf]

I once put one of the 8 pin parts on backwards. I took it to our techs at work and asked them if there was anything they could do. They had it off in about five seconds. Counter-intuitively, they added a bunch of solder to each set of four pins and heated both sides up. The part came right off. They then removed the solder with copper wick, turned the part around and resoldered it. No way a non-professional could have done that, but they showed me it is possible and made it look easy at the same time.

That's the situation I'm in with my second Quasar. I saw a video on Youtube demonstrating that technique, but I am a bit hesitant to try it.

 

[cerving]

Chip Quik sells a special low-temperature solder and flux kit for removing IC's like that. It works fine, however you have to be careful not to get solder in places that you don't want it to be, and the flux is kinda messy. A hot air rework tool is the best method... it doesn't leave a mess.

 

[waltr]

I once put one of the 8 pin parts on backwards. I took it to our techs at work and asked them if there was anything they could do. They had it off in about five seconds. Counter-intuitively, they added a bunch of solder to each set of four pins and heated both sides up. The part came right off. They then removed the solder with copper wick, turned the part around and resoldered it. No way a non-professional could have done that, but they showed me it is possible and made it look easy at the same time.

Yep, I also use this method but mainly at work with a good solder & cleaning stations.
Then of course, we have hot air tips that also make it easy to remove smaller SM parts.

The X-acto method has worked well for me. Apply the knife pressure right next to the plastic package and the pins cut off easily.

More than one way to do this.

 

[darrenf]

Chip Quik sells a special low-temperature solder and flux kit for removing IC's like that. It works fine, however you have to be careful not to get solder in places that you don't want it to be, and the flux is kinda messy. A hot air rework tool is the best method... it doesn't leave a mess.

@cerving , So with the rework station I just purchased desoldering the old EEPROM and installing the new one was a super easy and quick process. Unfortunately there is no change in the behavior. It still freezes at Testing Memory....

 

[cerving]

If it's freezing at "testing memory" then your have either: 1) A short somewhere, 2) A missed solder joint (check the 472 resistors, and make sure that the solder joints on the processor are good); or a lifted trace somewhere (which could have happened trying to resolder things). You'll have to look at it very close...

 

[darrenf]

If it's freezing at "testing memory" then your have either: 1) A short somewhere, 2) A missed solder joint (check the 472 resistors, and make sure that the solder joints on the processor are good); or a lifted trace somewhere (which could have happened trying to resolder things). You'll have to look at it very close...

Looked at over and over again through the loupe tonight. I saw nothing like a short or missed solder joint as far as I could tell.

 

[patbunn]

??? Why are you not dealing with Cris direct???

He has taken me directly to any problems that I have had after I did the diagnostics he asked me to do. I have been doing electronics my entire life and unfortunately a few of the responses here are questionable at best. Use his test cable, use his solder and email him for information. I have built probably 30 of his kits and had very few problems, and all were corrected quickly working with Cris.

If you have to remove an IC, use Chip Quick unless you have surface mount repair equipment or you will destroy the board.

Starting out with a Quasar may have been a mistake. It is not a simple build.

 

[darrenf]

??? Why are you not dealing with Cris direct???

He has taken me directly to any problems that I have had after I did the diagnostics he asked me to do. I have been doing electronics my entire life and unfortunately a few of the responses here are questionable at best. Use his test cable, use his solder and email him for information. I have built probably 30 of his kits and had very few problems, and all were corrected quickly working with Cris.

If you have to remove an IC, use Chip Quick unless you have surface mount repair equipment or you will destroy the board.

Starting out with a Quasar may have been a mistake. It is not a simple build.

Excuse me?

Have you not seen Chris and I interacting in this forum? That is definitely he and I dealing "direct". If you mean by another medium, frankly, what concern is that of yours? Having the conversation here can also help others that might find themselves in same situation. And, you also might want to go back and read a bit of this thread before replying further, as your last two questions show that you really haven't paid attention. This isn't my first build, and the chip has already been successfully removed.

 

[darrenf]

If it's freezing at "testing memory" then your have either: 1) A short somewhere, 2) A missed solder joint (check the 472 resistors, and make sure that the solder joints on the processor are good); or a lifted trace somewhere (which could have happened trying to resolder things). You'll have to look at it very close...

So, I built the 2nd Quasar, and unfortunately it too has an issue. The buzzer does nothing, just as the first Quasar I built. Any thoughts besides check the solders, which I already did. Everything else seems to be functioning well. All tests show passed in terminal, and I tested drogue and main channels and they fired successfully. It also is able to get GPS location. Only thing not tested yet is telemetry.

 

[patbunn]

Have fun with your builds. I always do.

 

[darrenf]

Have fun with your builds. I always do.

Thank you. I definitely am. Though at first it was frustrating with this particular item, since I was hoping to fly it a week ago, I am over that and still finding building Chris' designs my favorite part of the hobby. Every single time I get one of his boards on the bench I learn something new. Probably the best thing I've learned is to not stress over some self imposed deadline. Just have fun.

 

[Grog6]

I once put one of the 8 pin parts on backwards. I took it to our techs at work and asked them if there was anything they could do. They had it off in about five seconds. Counter-intuitively, they added a bunch of solder to each set of four pins and heated both sides up. The part came right off. They then removed the solder with copper wick, turned the part around and resoldered it. No way a non-professional could have done that, but they showed me it is possible and made it look easy at the same time.

That's the way to do those, one side at a time. A tiny screwdriver helps,Making sure the solder is molten before using any force keeps from losing pads. Be careful to avoid traces with tools.
The professional setup you posted is nice, but the learning curve is steep.Hot air can blister a board, so timing is everything for those. The solder sucker devices are great at removing pads, traces, whatever gets in the way.

 

[cerving]

So, I built the 2nd Quasar, and unfortunately it too has an issue. The buzzer does nothing, just as the first Quasar I built. Any thoughts besides check the solders, which I already did. Everything else seems to be functioning well. All tests show passed in terminal, and I tested drogue and main channels and they fired successfully. It also is able to get GPS location. Only thing not tested yet is telemetry.

So, it's working 100% except for the buzzer? Check: 1) Buzzer polarity (it has to be dead-on the pads); 2) the little SI2302 FET (are all the leads soldered to the pads); 3) the 103 resistor right next to the SI2302 FET; 4) the processor pad that's the second to the left from where the SI2303 FET is located (the one NEXT to the 3V3 pad).

 

[patbunn]

Chip Quick solder is a solder alloy that melts a bit over 120 Degrees F. It is put on heavy and the solder holding the chip on mixes with it, reducing the solder mix melting point. It can then be heated making the chip come long off before the solder hardens. Solder wick cleans it up well.

I use solder paste and a Haiko preheater, and then finish with a good temperature controlled heat gun. I rarely have a problem, but sometimes the space under the IC pin does not flow. It is difficult to see.

 

[darrenf]

So, it's working 100% except for the buzzer? Check: 1) Buzzer polarity (it has to be dead-on the pads); 2) the little SI2302 FET (are all the leads soldered to the pads); 3) the 103 resistor right next to the SI2302 FET; 4) the processor pad that's the second to the left from where the SI2303 FET is located (the one NEXT to the 3V3 pad).

You got it, it was the tiny FET, the lead was sitting just a smidge (like less than a human hair) above the solder. It could not be seen from above, just close inspection from the side.

 

[darrenf]

@cerving , Just curious, how warm should the 3.3v Voltage Regulator get. I'm reading about 130 degrees F when the Quasar is sitting at idle.

 

[cerving]

It may get warm, but it shouldn't be hot to the touch. Idle (sitting on the web page) should be around 100 mA, if you have it armed (or have just powered it on without connecting to the web page) while it's sending out data it will draw a little over 200 mA. Measure your current draw... if it's significantly higher than that then you may have something shorted somewhere.

 

[darrenf]

It may get warm, but it shouldn't be hot to the touch. Idle (sitting on the web page) should be around 100 mA, if you have it armed (or have just powered it on without connecting to the web page) while it's sending out data it will draw a little over 200 mA. Measure your current draw... if it's significantly higher than that then you may have something shorted somewhere.

Do you have an inline meter you suggest to check the current draw? Does the RC world have something we could use?

Also, thanks again for all your help with this.

 

[cerving]

Any decent DVM will measure 5A or 10A, including the $5.99 one that Harbor Freight sells. They used to give them away as freebies... I have 3 or 4 of them.