I've been banging my head against the wall for this one. I replaced the entire hot end assembly a little bit back and got two prints out of my printer before it decided to constantly throw heating errors. During the PID test or as long as the bed is OFF, it will get the extruder's hotend to temperature. However, when I try and print a piece, and it's maintaining the temperature of the bed, the hotend falls short by about 10°C when heating, and wiggles until the printer reaches the temperature stabilization timeout.
Things I've done:
- (Update) Thermistor screw was pretty tight on the hot end from factory. Loosening it didn't fix it, but it's possible the thermistor was broken because of over-tightening at the factory.
- Checked my board, it's a v2.1 which has a 220uF capacitor. This problem is sometimes a symptom on older boards with an underrated capacitor; so that's not the problem here.
- Brand new PSU. It's got a little more wattage the original, but better parts than the cheap chinese crap that comes with the cr10s by default.
- Hotend is virtually new.I have NOT checked if I needed to tighten screws on the thermoresistor and will try that tonight. It does have the silicon sock and what not.
- Firmware is up to date with the Marlin LTS release, PID tuned, and even given a little more wiggle room for the parameters that determine an extruder heating failure... didn't change the result.
- I checked the ambient temperature as a point of issue: I placed a space heater next to my printer, got it up to 30+°C ambient temperature on both the bed and hotend, and then attempted a print. It still fails with a heating failure.
- I've checked and my PSU and hotend are both 12v. I made sure to find drop in replacements for my parts.
The suspects:
- (most likely) Thehotend thermistor; might be a flawed product out of the box, or just needs some adjustments to the screws holding it in. (Update) Narrowed it down to the thermistor, it was possibly over-tightened by the manufacturer and since I didn't loosen it out of the box, it may have gotten damaged.
- (unlikely) The board; just because it's not the flawed board doesn't mean it doesn't have something else wrong with it.
- (unlikely) The bed; honestly, the weird thing about this is that the bed causes the extruder to under heat. It's not impossible it's connected.
-Ambient temperature; maybe the coldness of winter and the fact my printer is close to an external wall is causing the temperature to drop more quickly and the heater elements to run more?
Trying my best not to ask on reddit... so any thoughts will be appreciated. Not really expecting much at this point... just would suck to lose the ability to make large prints. I'm seriously considering buying a more reliable printer...
Things I've done:
- (Update) Thermistor screw was pretty tight on the hot end from factory. Loosening it didn't fix it, but it's possible the thermistor was broken because of over-tightening at the factory.
- Checked my board, it's a v2.1 which has a 220uF capacitor. This problem is sometimes a symptom on older boards with an underrated capacitor; so that's not the problem here.
- Brand new PSU. It's got a little more wattage the original, but better parts than the cheap chinese crap that comes with the cr10s by default.
- Hotend is virtually new.
- Firmware is up to date with the Marlin LTS release, PID tuned, and even given a little more wiggle room for the parameters that determine an extruder heating failure... didn't change the result.
- I checked the ambient temperature as a point of issue: I placed a space heater next to my printer, got it up to 30+°C ambient temperature on both the bed and hotend, and then attempted a print. It still fails with a heating failure.
- I've checked and my PSU and hotend are both 12v. I made sure to find drop in replacements for my parts.
The suspects:
- (most likely) The
- (unlikely) The board; just because it's not the flawed board doesn't mean it doesn't have something else wrong with it.
- (unlikely) The bed; honestly, the weird thing about this is that the bed causes the extruder to under heat. It's not impossible it's connected.
-
Trying my best not to ask on reddit... so any thoughts will be appreciated. Not really expecting much at this point... just would suck to lose the ability to make large prints. I'm seriously considering buying a more reliable printer...
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