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David Schwantz

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Got a Mercury escape tower rocket. Can't get them all to light at the same time. 24mm motors. Have tried white lightning twice, blue thunders this last time. Have a cluster box with 6s LiPo. She flies sideways and then when 3rd one lights she tumbles. Any thoughts on getting them to light at the same time?
 
Get a stronger battery source. 12 volt automotive battery. You might have 12 volts with the lipos , but what do they drop to under load of three ignitor? Do not overdo it on the amps either as you can burn the bridge wire before ignition of the ignitor source.
 
He says he has a 6s battery. That's over 22V even under a heavy load.

Even really small LiPolys can source tens of amps of current. There is plenty of power available.

I'm actually surprised the third one is lighting at all if the thing is flying off when two light. With that high a voltage, I'd expect the igniters to burn through too fast as you suggest.
 
It would be a good experiment to test and video the results.

At the end of the day the initiators and battery complete a circuit when the relay is closed.

The list of variables I can think of are: wire length to each initiator, resistance of bridge wire, pyrogen over bridge wire, propellant the initiator is supposed to supply enough heat and pressure to sustain ignition.

I wonder If to many volts/amps can snap or pop the bridge wire before the initiator can light.
 
24 mm BP motors. Check in nozzle to make sure you can see black BP in the nozzle. Stick ematches into the nozzle as far as it will go. These are an 18 mm motor with ematches. The ematch does not have to touch the BP. With D12 or E12 the ematch goes all the way in. These are the same ematches as used for altimeter deployment.
Ematch in Estes 1.jpg Ematch in Estes 2.jpg Ematch in Estes 3.jpg
 
Tried Blues. Will series not set them off in the order that they are wired though?
If you are wiring either in series or parallel and all igniters are on the same firing circuit, there is no order in which they fire. They all fire at the same time.

Wiring in series makes no difference to when an igniter fires. (You do want the cluster to light simultaneously, don't you?) The only difference it will make is to the total voltage required. a 6S pack has plenty.
Series is one of the things that gets taught when you do a mining course. You either want all of them going off or none. Of course these days they don't generally use electric match heads for big jobs. There are safer methods.

In parallel, if one igniter fails one motor might not get lit. In series, if one igniter fails, they all fail. Which for a cluster is optimal.
Also in parallel, when an igniter fires, it can cause a dead short on that igniter. This could prevent the other igniters from firing.
You do need to use matched igniters. They should all be the same brand/type and check the resistances are all identical. Check with a multimeter on the resistance setting.
Black powder motors are the easiest.
Blue Thunder, is one of the easiest composite propellants to light generally. Black Jack is also easy but generally has lower performance. If these are old motors, you may have to augment your igniters. As you are in the US, there are plenty of options for that although the bore on the 24mm motors is tight....
PM sent too
 
Ematches can be wired in series or parallel as they produce a momentary short when they fire. This allows more current through the string firing the less sensitive ones. However, allow at least 2V per match so a 12V system shouldn't have more than 6 ematches per string. If more motors, wire strings in parallel. All other starters must be wired in parallel as they don't have the ematch properties and the first one fired will break the string.
 
Get the MJG "mini" ematches and dip them with QuickBurst ProCast. They should fit easily into the throat of those 24mm AP motors, and they will light quickly. I've clustered the 29mm Enerjet motors using dipped regular ematches, they light instantly.
 
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