Originally posted by Const Star
super glue would be another of those non cheap methods, and also, i dont like the fact it tends to crystalize and become britle in excessive amounts other than fixing broken glass figureins and such.
Yeah. If you just use it around the edges (except the root edge), you get most of the benefits with less cost. It also has less of the brittleness problem, since the rest of the fin isn't soaked and is behind the edge, absorbing the impact. This is what I usually do. I also use the CA (water-thin variety) to reinforce the ends of the body tube and the rear end of the motor mount, so they're less likely to take damage from shock cords and engine stuffing-in and removing. The paper or balsa swells a bit where the CA soaks in, so it means a bit of extra sanding in those areas (and for fin edges), but it's worth it, IMHO and not too expensive when done this way.
Originally posted by Const Star
Epoxy would be my first choice for strength just due to the "thus far" experience I have. wood glue if used correctly and if u have patience is a nice choice. my biggest factor is finding a flattening method which allow me little or no sanding after its dried.
I've not yet used epoxy in rocket construction, as wood glue is quite strong, and I've done only low-power to date. I plan to start my LOC Graduator over the holidays, and I'll use epoxy for that. Another reason I've not used epoxy on my fins is that it's heavy and expensive. Weight in the rear of a rocket is destabilizing, so I'd have to recheck stability, and so on. You can get epoxy glassy smooth though, so I'm sure I'll try it some time on a rocket that's big enough or long enough to get away with the added tail weight. Once a fin is relatively smooth and straight, papering it will cheaply strengthen and smooth it. I don't think I'd worry too much about sanding it first, unless it had noticable lumps or grooves in it. Maybe just a tiny bit to give the glue that much better hold. Balsa's pretty porous to begin with though. Once the paper's on properly and dry, the surface will be, well, paper smooth.
Originally posted by Const Star
I added some nose weight to it with a few sticks of hot glue. Didn't have any clay stuff around, next best thing. also the nose cone fits a little loose, so I use a strip of tape to make it more snug for now.
Tape is about the best way to snug up the nose, so I'd consider it a permanent solution if it was me. Quick, easy, good friction qualities, and it's adjustable to the tightness of the nose on any given flying day. Temperature and humidity can alter the fit. For nose weight, epoxy clay is probably ideal, though pricy. Regular modeling clay can be stuffed in and covered with a layer of wood glue or white glue for a bond that will last decades. Ordinary epoxy, if available, is heavy enough and self adhering. If you need more weight in less space, small lead fishing weights can be dropped into the liquid epoxy before it begins to set. They'll sink to the tip of the inverted nose, giving you maximal stability for the weight. I would think that in most low power cases, you could do that with hot glue too, but in higher power boosts, the weights might pull through the rubbery glue.
