I have got to wonder if using 4 pennies or 2 x 25 cent pieces in the nose will help it to glide better.
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Centuri - X-24 Bug
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I got my kit from EBay at a good price. Otherwise you can guesstimate the dimensions from these pics.
![1108211422[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/rocketryforum/data/attachments/406/406093-bf968a7db1e486f2310dda7451c993b6.jpg "1108211422[1].jpg")
![1108211421[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/rocketryforum/data/attachments/406/406094-e194a1e32f379e479c977c252720acd2.jpg "1108211421[1].jpg")
Maybe hijack a canopy from a plastic model set?
Or use one from Apogee?
Vacuum-Formed Canopy PNC-33A (apogeerockets.com)
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Ah, you might be on to something! I think you're right that the megaphone shape of the aeroshroud allows sufficient gas expansion as it exits the motor nozzle to prevent the shock wave from forming inside.Maybe the divergent aeroshroud shape results in the shock waves forming outside the shroud rather than inside? As opposed to the cylindrical shape of a tube?
IDK, not a physicist.
MarkB.
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Well, an X-24 is a cone, so the computation of whether or not the nozzle of the motor was more than one caliber inside would be based on the average diameter of the cone. I don't have an X-24 or X-RV handy but I bet it's not. I've built several X-24 and clones and I totally agree it's not so much gliding as falling with style.
Tip: if you glue the launch lug to the motor mount such that the launch rod comes out under the nose cone, it launches much better.
Tip2: The HL-20 style fin with the fold in front is the superior design in terms of drag.
Tip3: The smaller or "cut-down" fin size as shown in the Centuri Tech Report is also more than enough to stabilize it.
Even with all that, it still falls with style.
edit: I realized I posted the "improvements" in an earlier post. I guess I've finally reached the age where I tell the stories over and over . . . .
Tip: if you glue the launch lug to the motor mount such that the launch rod comes out under the nose cone, it launches much better.
Tip2: The HL-20 style fin with the fold in front is the superior design in terms of drag.
Tip3: The smaller or "cut-down" fin size as shown in the Centuri Tech Report is also more than enough to stabilize it.
Even with all that, it still falls with style.
edit: I realized I posted the "improvements" in an earlier post. I guess I've finally reached the age where I tell the stories over and over . . . .
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Fishhead
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Speaking of "falling with style", I cut out the parts for the X-24 Bug years ago when we lived in our old house. I glued it all together, but hadn't het done any of the work on the internals, but I was carrying it to the basement and dropped it as I was going down the steps. The glider-to-be glided down the steps and banked to the left, landing on the basement carpet. It's never progressed beyond this point, and still sits on the floor of the shop in my new house. Maybe it's time to get moving on it again.
user 35280
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Oh wow that’s a Centuri Saturn V and the X-24. I bet you could use this Builders Kit from Boyce Aerospace and put an X-24 or X-RV on top,
https://boyceaerospacehobbies.com/c.../dyna-soar-titan-ii-builders-kit-1-73rd-scale
And electronically stage the X-24.
Scott_650
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I made an unsuccessful attempt a few years ago to use a Quest Big Betty as a “Bug Lifter” - never got the CP/CG relationship right, best it did was a loop and crash about 20 feet from launch. Might try it again with something bigger like my much crashed Executioner
What is the other site, please? Thanks!
Thank You Kirirn. I check things out, although I think that I might just go ahead and make my own by vac-forming. Cheers!
I would love to learn how to do that! Maybe a tutorial thread?
Kurinin, I changed my mind and I've ordered one from Apogee!
BTW, my friend. For a tutorial, look up on the net how to simple vac-form a canopy. Other wise, carve the shape that You want the piece to be, then put the flat bottom down on a piece of a 1/8th" birch plank ( get them at the hobby shops). Cut the shape out and then drill a hole into the bottom of the wood canopy and glue a 6" long dowel rod the diameter of the hole into it. Next thumbtack a piece of plastic, clear or otherwise to the bottom of the birch plank. Heat Your oven up to NO MORE than 350 degrees, place the Birch plank with the plastic tacked to it until the plastic starts to sag SLIGHTLY. Take the Birch piece out of the oven and QUICKLY shove the wood canopy piece through the Birch /plastic piece. Keep the male mold pressed into the Birch female mold until cold. When cold, pull the male mold out of the female mold, cut it out and there You are. Cheers
BTW, my friend. For a tutorial, look up on the net how to simple vac-form a canopy. Other wise, carve the shape that You want the piece to be, then put the flat bottom down on a piece of a 1/8th" birch plank ( get them at the hobby shops). Cut the shape out and then drill a hole into the bottom of the wood canopy and glue a 6" long dowel rod the diameter of the hole into it. Next thumbtack a piece of plastic, clear or otherwise to the bottom of the birch plank. Heat Your oven up to NO MORE than 350 degrees, place the Birch plank with the plastic tacked to it until the plastic starts to sag SLIGHTLY. Take the Birch piece out of the oven and QUICKLY shove the wood canopy piece through the Birch /plastic piece. Keep the male mold pressed into the Birch female mold until cold. When cold, pull the male mold out of the female mold, cut it out and there You are. Cheers
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What kind of plastic, please.
Kuririn, I'd get some clear "Evergreen" plastic about 1/16th " for a start.
Hopefully, that helps.
Hopefully, that helps.
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user 35280
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I’d just rather have it eject and hopefully glide down with the booster recovery with a chute.
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