Building a Better Shroud

[Kruegon]

I'm working slowly on an Estes K-27/1227 Honest John. The nose cone is not full size. It's half balsa and half a paper shroud. I've always hated the paper shrouds because of the seam. It's so unsightly.

I know can simply turn the seam to the lug side, but I'd rather work on making it disappear. Any suggestions on a better way to build a shroud without such an obvious seam,

 

[Rex R]

let me guess, the instructions call for an overlapping seam, right? easiest/quickest mod is to cut the tab off, cut a new tab 2x as wide, glue the new tab onto ene end of your shroud(to cover 1/2 the tab) and let the glue dry, roll the shroud into shape with the tab on the inside and glue the other end onto the tab. note; you may need to trim the new tab a bit (about a 1/16" or so top & bottom) to provide clearance for centering rings/body tubes. when the glue dries apply thin ca to the shroud(this will allow sanding). fill the remaining seam with the filler of your choice, prime/sand paint. you should now have a paper shroud that looks seamless.
Rex

 

[TopRamen]

What he said^^^





Once the two sides are joined, and before you soak with CA, gently use the edge of a scissor or steel rule to press the seam line from the inside, as the tab will create a stiff spot, more ridgid than the rest of the cone. Gently creasing it this way make it fit a little better.

 

[Kruegon]

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try later today and see how it turns out. I'm not afraid to make 20 of them, if need be, to get them right.

 

[Gary Byrum]

let me guess, the instructions call for an overlapping seam, right? easiest/quickest mod is to cut the tab off, cut a new tab 2x as wide, glue the new tab onto ene end of your shroud(to cover 1/2 the tab) and let the glue dry, roll the shroud into shape with the tab on the inside and glue the other end onto the tab. note; you may need to trim the new tab a bit (about a 1/16" or so top & bottom) to provide clearance for centering rings/body tubes. when the glue dries apply thin ca to the shroud(this will allow sanding). fill the remaining seam with the filler of your choice, prime/sand paint. you should now have a paper shroud that looks seamless.
Rex

I only wish that would work for me. For some reason, it always causes a gap between the ends. Then I have to putty fill it anyway. It's a great angle if you can get it to work. Since I am an epic fail at this technique, I usually resort to the old putty fill after the overlap method. This in turn, will always cause a bump on the outside of the tranny. When I can remember to do it, another technique is to CA the overlap generously, and sand it off. Multiple grits of sandpaper are required and maybe even another coat of CA, but you can usually alleviate that stinker with enough patience and smooth it over. Here's a little diagram of an exaggerated overlap.

 

[hcmbanjo]

I do shrouds both ways, with overlap edge tabs and inside tabs.
The choice depends on the model and how much time I want to spend on it.

A tip: Instead of pulling the shroud over a table edge to preform it -
Try pre-forming the curve in the heel of your hand. It works on small shrouds
like on your HoJo and the biggest ones like on the Apogee Saturn V.
The second picture shows the technique.

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2015/09/dr-zooch-ares-i-x-build-part-4-shrouds.html

I did an article on how to make shrouds much stronger:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/10/super-shroud-article-in-apogee-peak-of.html
This method wouldn't work on your HoJo, the upper edge might be too thick to fit the nose cone.

 

[TopRamen]

If you glass them too, the seam is non-existent. I have not sanded down the excess on this one yet, but it was 11g. before glassing and 13g. after, so don't try to argue that it adds too much weight.

 

[YodaMcFly]

That's beautiful. How did you glass it?

 

[TopRamen]

That's beautiful. How did you glass it?

Thank You!!

I masked off the coupler with teflon tape, then used my nitrile glove clad finger to evenly apply a thin coating of Bob Smith 20 minute finishing epoxy to the outside of the cone.
Then I placed a slightly oversized rectangle of 1.5oz. glass cloth down on it, and used my nitrile glove clad fingers to make it evenly pressed on.




I had plenty of epoxy mixed up, so I used some to evenly coat the inner wall of the cone for added strength.
When it was dry, this morning, I put a brand new #11 blade in my X-acto knife and cut the excess cloth away.
I like to draw some of the excess epoxy to the edges of the object I'm glassing with my nitrile glove clad fingers, as it make the cloth easy to cut once dry. Some folks wait til the epoxy is only nearly cured, as they like to cut away the excess while it's a bit spongy still. I've tried both ways, but I prefer the feeling of cutting the fully dry resin impregnated cloth.
For me it is all about the physical sensation of working with the cloth. I find it very relaxing and therapeutic. The textures and everything about the way it feels just do something for me right down to my very soul.
I imagine it is like that for folks that make pottery with one of those spinny things.
Sure, they end up with a vase or a bowl when they are done, but I'll bet if you ask them they will say that their favorite part is the way the clay feels in their hands.


I have yet to sand and seal it, but it is kind of hit or miss here with the rain today, and I only do that part outdoors, and before I need to take a shower, as I'm rightfully afraid of the fiberglass.
even outside I wear my respirator when I work with it, and try to be up-wind of the work piece so the fine dust does not contaminate my clothing.

 

[Daddyisabar]

A dowel, an old mouse pad (or a virgin thigh), some heavy breathing or steam applied then roll. Then tacky glue (some use rubber cement, dried) to join, no overlap, just internal tab. Finishing epoxy and filler are your friends.