Build Surface Preparation:
A lot of this applies to different surfaces. Some of this applies only to PEI and PEI Textured like is found on the Prusa.
There are a multitude of different contaminants that can find their way onto your build surface. Any contaminant can hinder adhesion but some do this more than others.
Contaminants that hinder adhesion:
Cleaners that I use:
The procedure for any of these spray types is to spray it on a cold bed and wipe it off. IPA is the only one I will let sit on the bed. I use low lint paper towels or cotton.
Key points:
A lot of this applies to different surfaces. Some of this applies only to PEI and PEI Textured like is found on the Prusa.
There are a multitude of different contaminants that can find their way onto your build surface. Any contaminant can hinder adhesion but some do this more than others.
Contaminants that hinder adhesion:
- Body oil: Fingertips are coated in oils that make print difficult to impossible to get good adhesion. Our hands have both oils and salts that you secrete yourself in addition to anything that you have acquired through touching other things.
- Environmental contaminants: There are also contaminants in your environment such as dust-off cans (use propane and other petrochemicals as propellants), household cleaners, waxes, sunscreens, and lotions.
- Print byproducts: There are compounds in the filament itself that can leave behind residue.
Cleaners that I use:
- Isopropyl Alcohol or IPA: I used 99% pure but some say they use 91% with success. This is my primary cleaner and I clean with it after every print.
- Soap and Water: I use Dawn dishwashing liquid and water with a soft sponge. I clean after every change of filament or 1 week of print (whichever comes first).
- Acetone: Prusa warns nto to use this on textured sheets and avoid using it on Bondtech. I use it once every 3-6 months to reset my print surface. I even use it on the Prusa Textured sheets. Spray on and wipe off - do nto let it dry. I then rewipe with IPA.
- Windex: Use the ammonia-based cleaner only. Avoid vinegar-based cleaners. I feel this works to clean and creat a release agent for some difficult to remove filaments.
The procedure for any of these spray types is to spray it on a cold bed and wipe it off. IPA is the only one I will let sit on the bed. I use low lint paper towels or cotton.
Key points:
- Store your cleaning solutions as far away from your printer (or any heat source) as possible. Always. No exceptions. Alcohols and petroleum-based solvents are volatile at room temperature and are a source of flammable vapors. Many are also heavier-than-air, and using acetone anywhere near your hot printer is just begging for a fire. And even if the combination of solvent and heat didn't cause your fire, an ill-placed can of accelerant can easily escalate a small issue into a catastrophic one.
- If you buy your solvents in large containers (liters, gallons, etc.), transfer them into a smaller (solvent-proof, obviously) container that is easier to dispense small quantities from, and keep it closed and well-labeled. Do not assume that your bestie isn't going to come over and assume that the unmarked container of clear smelly liquid is rum and drink it. The absolute best practice is to buy a small container of your solvent(s) of choice and refill that container with a larger one.
- Do not combine your solvents. Different solvents (alcohol, acetone, etc.) have different properties and clean their own contaminants best. Combining them doesn't give you all the properties of all in one super-solvent. And (in case it needs to be said) your bedroom (or wherever you keep your printer) isn't the place to be experimenting with chemical reactions. Leave that to trained professionals in the appropriate environments.
- Best practice overall is to separate your printing area from your cleaning area. As in, keep your cleaning supplies in another part of the room, or a different room entirely; DO YOUR CLEANING THERE, then take your immaculate steel sheet to your printer and begin your warm-up/print. Skimping on cleanliness can cost you a print; skimping on safety can cost you everything.
- Dispose of your cleaning towels/pads immediately in a fire-proof container. Most people don't have a vapor-proof canister on hand, so the next-best option is an all-metal trash can or empty paint can, which is kept outside. Do NOT dispose of solvent-soaked media in your household trash. Just don't. Don't be that person.
- Wear gloves. Latex and vinyl are ok for very short exposures, but something like nitrile is best for long-term use. Gloves will save your hands from the exposure to solvents, and also keep you from transferring your body oils/salts/etc. to your work surface. I have even used cotton gloves.
