Best Voltage Igniter

[niels popping]

I want to build a simple launch controller,
does anybody know how many voltage is required, and how many amps ?
12V battery enough ?

 

[bobkrech]

12 volts. The cheapest decent batteries are 2-5 AH 12 volt lead acid gel cells. They will put out 20-100 amps to igniters.

In the US they cost between $10-$20 and in a pinch can be charge from your cars powerport. They are used for emergency lighting and computer backup supplies, that's why they are cheap.

Bob

 

[niels popping]

I've plenty amount of batteries so price is not the problem.
those batteries are from the back-up power from data centers,
after a year of used, they need to be removed from the data center,
and they give there batteries to my


but 20- to 100 amps trough the igniter, thats never gonna happen

the cable wiring is to thin, to support that amount in coulomb

I think I'm going to use 24V so a 150 foot wire is not a problem,


working on 2 launch controllers t the moment,
One thats needs to be simple and finish today,

I will post some photos later this day,
about 10 minutes from now, I hope i get my driver license


the other one, is used the LPT port from the computer 8 bit to switch 8 relays with automatic count down,
before that you need to insert the GO Codes, on a win 95 based portable computer.

and than press the button to ignite

 

[bobkrech]

Neils

Folks use relay launchers for high power pads. If you search the TRF archieves, you will find lots of relay launcher plans.

Again, almost everyone uses 12 volt launchers. With a <$5 12 volt automotive power relay (good for 10+0 amps in a launcher application), a few LEDs and switchs, you can deliver up to 100 amps from the battery you have. The 150' wire to close the relay circuit only has to carry not more than 100 ma, supplied by the pad battery, to light a continuity LED and a monentary switch to close the relay.

Bob

 

[luke strawwalker]

Besides, you don't NEED that much amperage at the igniter... 2 amps are fine for LPR and probably 10-15 for HPR. If you're going to run things from 150 feet out, a relayer is the way to go regardless...

I'd stick to 12 volts... that's plenty for most applications.

Later! OL JR

 

[GDJ]

I have one of these from a small forklift. It was going to get tossed anyways, so I figured I had nothing to lose:

I trickle charged it and it works great! Ran my wireless launcher all day and it only dropped 5% in charge.

 

[luke strawwalker]

Handiest thing I've found is one of those portable car jumper battery packs... they're certainly not as cheap as the stuff you and Bob mentioned, but the work terrific and do double duty in the car the rest of the time for when the inevitable time comes that your car battery is flat from the lights being left on or it's especially cold or something...

It's 12 volts, you can launch off it all day, and still boost someone off on the launching field when they've left their doors open or hood up all day and managed to kill their battery with the interior or underhood lights... plus it can recharge easily using the cigarette lighter plug in the car...

Win/win/win... Later! OL JR

 

[Uncrichie]

I have one of these from a small forklift. It was going to get tossed anyways, so I figured I had nothing to lose:

I trickle charged it and it works great! Ran my wireless launcher all day and it only dropped 5% in charge.

Obviously the manufacturer knew what you intended to use it for and named it accordingly!

 

[GDJ]

Obviously the manufacturer knew what you intended to use it for and named it accordingly!

A funny co-incidence for sure!

 

[niels popping]

I've just finished my launch controller for LPR and MPR
using a 12V lead battery.

the other one with the display 'll be used for HIGH power when finished.
maybe using capacitors for extra amps ?

 

[luke strawwalker]

I've just finished my launch controller for LPR and MPR
using a 12V lead battery.

the other one with the display 'll be used for HIGH power when finished.
maybe using capacitors for extra amps ?

A lead acid battery can deliver all the amps you'll need... the main thing is reducing resistance by:
1) using the largest multistrand conductor wire you can reasonably use,
2) for clusters or other high-amperage uses, consider using a relay system in combination with heavy-guage wire, to minimize the length of the wire (and hence the resistance) by putting the battery right at the pad, and using short heavy leads from the battery to the relay and on to the pad.

Capacitors are COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY and will only cause problems and complicate the works...

Later and good luck! OL JR

 

[Sooner Boomer]

I've made several controllers for LPR and HPR. The two keys to a good system, whether single or multiple channel are 1) use relay(s) to handle the actual load to the pad, and 2) design so that the battery is at the pad, and you have as short a run (wire) as practical from the battery to the pad. Doing it this way will help get the most power to the igniter.

 

[WizardOfAZ]

Handiest thing I've found is one of those portable car jumper battery packs...

Brilliant... I have one in my garage. I'm going to ding around with it tomorrow.