I could use some help with judgement/experience regarding how to apply the hack to a rocket. I treed it on Saturday, apparently due to being overstable and kinda slow off the rod in fairly strong wind, powered by a D12-7 and the slowness due at least partly to the excess nose ballast. It curved up in a graceful, rainbow trajectory about 30 degrees away from straight into the wind, with a recorded apogee of 800 feet. If it had gone straight up, it would likely not have ended up in the trees. And would have gone quite a bit higher.
The original build of the rocket came out more nose-heavy and heavy overall than intended because I set the ballast before it was painted. Ended up with waaay too much paint on it due to not enough sanding layers off, so I wanted to rebuild it anyway.
The rocket is simply a Baby Bertha tube and nose cone glued to a Booster-60 fin can that has had the cardboard ring peeled off the front and most of the glue sanded off.
https://www.hobbylinc.com/estes-bt60-model-rocket-booster-stage-2256 It has an overall length/diameter ratio of 8.07, so it's a candidate for the base drag hack. I'm playing around in OR and trying to decide on a balance target.
The motor retainer cap is 1.346 in. diameter vs. 1.638 for the fin can itself (a few thou larger than BT-60 tubing). The cap protrudes 0.724 behind the fin can, which may be long enough to kinda interact like a stepped "boat tail," or not. I have reviewed both of the apogee newsletters regarding how to apply the hack. I figure there are probably two reasonable ways to apply it:
1. Use the 1.346 diameter of the cap as a basis and put the point of the pi() cone on the end of the cap, which will be on the end of the threaded spigot the way I've built the model, 0.224 further forward than the end of the cap.
2. Use the 1.638 diameter of the can as a basis and put the point of the pi() cone on the end of the can, which means a 0.159 fore diameter on the end of the pi()
cone transition at the back of the threaded spigot.
The OR-calculated CP is at 9.974 inches from the tip of the nose cone for method 1 and 10.209 inches for method 2.
Method 2 allows me to use less ballast in the nose cone to achieve a 1-caliber target, which gets me a higher apogee (as well as better speed off the rod). Does that seem to be an appropriate application? Does the threaded motor retainer cap protruding out behind the fin can interfere with the base drag aerodynamics, or can it be safely ignored?