Aurora Clipper 18mm from Arkansas [Dynasoar Rocketry]

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have built several of Frank Burke's models, and have not been disappointed. His designs are well designed, well tested,....... and well packaged:

m_IMG_2345small.jpg

m_IMG_2346small.jpg

m_IMG_2347small.jpg
 
I decided to print out the instructions (first 6 pages) so I can check stuff off as I complete it.

m_IMG_2349small.jpg
 
Step 1 is to install the Rail Buttons. There are holes in the tube [fuselage] for this, and the Rail Buttons come with the kit.

However, I do not use a rail (yet). So I will be adding Launch Lugs.

m_IMG_2356small.jpg
 
There are some slight inconsistencies in the taped joint between the Wing halves. The bevel needs a little work.

The front is not bad, but the back (lower pic) needs some work.

m_IMG_E2357small.jpg

m_IMG_E2358small.jpg
 
You can sand a bit if you want to, just leave the wing folded and sand each bevel slightly, just don't sand into the tape. These are cut by hand using a straight edge but obviously not perfect, but the actual glue joint between the two halves isn't giving you the strength, it's the tape bottom, the spars and the glue joint to the body tube, so the slight inconsistency won't really matter in practice, you don't glue the joint, let it dry then glue to the tube, it's all done as one shot. The foam also has some squish so as you hold the wing down onto the tube to dry the joint can squish together a bit as well. There is a lot of fungability in the design, the actual dihedral angle isn't critical either. Thanks for posting your kit assembly, I don't think any one has really done this for one of my kits.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for looking in, Frank. Did a little trim with the xacto knife, careful not to cut the tape. Worked fine.

Speaking of epoxy........

Ok, adding a lot of epoxy will add weight. The instructions advise using CA glue. But epoxy allows time to position stuff.

So, I put a thin layer of epoxy between the wing halves (the wing halves come together when you 'unfold' the wing). I also put some epoxy at the front, back, and middle of the wing (where it touches the tube).

This small amount of epoxy will hold the Wing, so I can go back with CA. You see, I have 5-second and 20-second CA glue, but I fear it may set before I get the wing positioned.

After the Wing was aligned correctly with the fuselage, I put weights (lipo batteries) on the Wing and Tube to hold it.

m_IMG_2363small.jpg
 
And here you go. I have added CA to get a proper grip between fuselage (tube) and wing.

The slot in the tube is for the rudder. This is why the Wing needs to be aligned with the line on the fuselage: so the Rudder can be correctly aligned.

All this is described in the instructions.

m_IMG_2366small.jpg
 
Just fyi, foam safe ca+ does not set immediately on foam, in fact you really have to spray it with accelerator to get it to set I've never had a problem positioning things.
 
Here is my radio setup. Using a Spektrum DX6, with an Admiral receiver and HS-55 servos. Batteries below.

The servo extension wires are 20 inches long.

m_IMG_2367small.jpg

m_IMG_2368small.jpg
 
Please note weight is extremely critical on this model due to its larger size, you want extremely light servo extensions no longer than they need to be and you want your battery to be as small as you can get by with...I would stick with the 500mah battery only. I needed no balast to get balance with my prototype that's what you want, you should not paint this version except for the cone. Stock it should be 6.75 oz rtf with motor, I've flown up to 7.16 oz and that flew ok as well. Keep in mind a few grams here and there easily make a quarter ounce, paint can add that much or more, it's easy to make it too heavy for this motor by being heavy handed with glues or components. Taking the case off the RX is an option to save a few grams as well.
 
Last edited:
I was originally going to use old Hitec HS-50 servos. They have a relatively short connector wire, requiring a longer extension.

But I am concerned that the HS-50 is a little underpowered for this model. (Instructions recommend 7 to 9 gram servos, but the HS-50 is 6 gram.)

So, I am going with HS-55 servos, which have a longer chord. (They weigh 7.6 grams.) So, I am using shorter servo extension chords: about 10 inch.
 
Sorting out the servos and connecting rods. The connecting rods are pre-bent, so you can set the servo in position to maych the length of the connecting rods.

However, I chose to use EZ connectors to hole the connecting rods. This is not what Dynasoar recommends, but I prefer the EZ connectors.

m_IMG_2369small.jpg

m_IMG_2371small.jpg
 
The instructions state that you should not paint the model. This will add weight to the back, requiring more weight in the nose to balance properly.

But without some type of marking, I will have trouble with orientation. So, I have added some Sharpie marks to the underside of the model.

This is also why I left the rudder off.

m_IMG_2372small.jpg

m_IMG_2373small.jpg
 
Time to glue the Rudder on. Braced both wingtips to equal height, and used a triangle to set the Fin/Rudder.

m_IMG_2376small.jpg

m_IMG_2377small.jpg
 
I have been building other miscellaneous rocket glider designs, and I had forgotten how GOOD the Dynasoar kits are.

I was looking at the 24mm Aurora (at Dynasoar Rocketry), and noticed it had the same overall dimensions (33" length, 24" wingspan) as the 18mm Aurora.

But the 18mm Aurora is a couple of ounces lighter. What is the difference between the two Auroras?
 
I have been building other miscellaneous rocket glider designs, and I had forgotten how GOOD the Dynasoar kits are.

I was looking at the 24mm Aurora (at Dynasoar Rocketry), and noticed it had the same overall dimensions (33" length, 24" wingspan) as the 18mm Aurora.

But the 18mm Aurora is a couple of ounces lighter. What is the difference between the two Auroras?
The answer is: 2.5mm instead of 3mm spars, 1/2 ounce cone instead of 1 oz heavier cone. Lighter loaded motor weight. That's it.

The History of the clipper is:
I used to do it as the Stratodart, same wing, but mid mounted requiring slotting of the body tube, PS-II tubing and cone.

Changed it to low wing with dihedral for simplicity, same wing as Stratodart also used 2" estes PS-II tubing with cone which weighed around 11.5 oz rtf

Then I switched to BT-80 tubing and PNC-80K cone which lowered the cost slightly and the weight to 10.5 oz rtf

When usps changed shipping rates in April 2022 I needed to shorten the wing chord so it would fit into 20" long boxes. By shortening the chord 2" it changed the CG requirement so I switched it to shorter BT-60 tubing and nose cone to avoid being nose heavy. It cut the rtf weight to 8.5 oz for effectively almost the same wing area, and I did not need any nose weight for balance.

I used to do a mini Aurora Clipper with BT-60 tubing and the same lightweight cone you have which went pretty high on the D2.3t but wing area was small and glide was about a minute, by converting the new kit to the lightweight cone and lighter spars because there was less stress on the airframe, it allowed it to still fly on the D2.3 but much slower and more forgiving and due to the larger wing area still glide about a minute. It also meant only one set of templates for me to use. This also managed to balance perfectly without any nose weight.

Looks good, pinstripes always make a lady look slimmer:)
 
Last edited:
Really good answer. :clapping:

Which reminds me: It's about time I did something stupid (almost). :facepalm:

"Build Happy" - when you build without carefully reading the instructions.

I built the Motor Mount, but forgot the part about sanding it to fit the body tube (fuselage). Consequently, I shoved it into the back of the model.

The instructions clearly state that it should be sanded to fit. But I forgot that part. However, with a set of needle-nose pliers, I was able to extract the Motor Mount. Did some light sanding, and got the Motor Mount to fit correctly.

m_IMG_2378small.jpg

m_IMG_2381small.jpg
 
There is no engine hook. The motor casing has a flange that prevents it from sliding through the motor mount.

m_IMG_2380small.jpg

m_IMG_2379small.jpg
 
Marking the CG (balance) location. It is 10.5 inches from the back of the Wing.

I checked balance with a battery and an empty motor casing. It came out about an inch forward of the CG.

However, you are supposed to test the CG with a fully loaded motor. Will do that soon.

m_IMG_2382small.jpg

m_IMG_2383small.jpg
 
You should be pretty close, the propellent is about 1/2 an ounce so that should put you near, and you can adjust with moving the battery and rx back and forth a bit.
 
Back
Top