Artemis Build @ Scale 1/126.3

[Raptor 2]

I am constructing the model based on a BT-80 main frame using AMX paper space model wraps. I'll be printing the 1/96 scale wraps on the AMX site at 76% The cylinder just below the capsule is a BT-60. Construction of the Artemis capsule and upper portion of the rocket was first as this is the most difficult to make. I used the wraps on the AMX site to construct the upper capsule and LES tower. This required 6 transition wraps and one tower wrap and 10 centering rings around a BT-5 tube. The BT-60 tube required one exterior CB wrap and two wraps on the interior to provide the correct exterior circumference for the AMX wrap and for a snug fit of the interior tube. The interior tube is constructed of three old Command Module tubes from old Saturn V kits coupled together. The LES tower has the wrap around a 6mm bamboo stick which has a paper wrap wound it to provide a tight fit inside the BT-5 tube which centers the capsule transitions and LES tower

 

[neil_w]

Impressive! That is some very fine segmented nose cone work.

 

[NTP2]

I am impressed, very very impressed.

 

[NOLA_BAR]

Thanks for posting this build! I need to build an Artemis for a STEM launch next summer. They launch the small Estes RTF versions, but want a larger version for display and possibly a demo launch. Please post as manly build pics as possible!

 

[neil_w]

Please post as manly build pics as possible!

Does that mean he needs to be in the background lifting weights?

 

[NOLA_BAR]

Does that mean he needs to be in the background lifting weights?

LOL, no not required. Thumb typing is not my best skill!

 

[Raptor 2]

Thanks for the all compliments. I’ll post pics on the build. As for the workout pics that could be arranged.
We have the equipment! Three reps per set.

 

[Raptor 2]

Completed the construction of the ejection baffle. I use the cardboard from a Kleenex box. I first place a strip of plain paper inside the BT-80 tube and mark it for the interior circumference. I transfer this dimension to the cardboard and cut 1mm longer than required. Test fit it inside the tube. If it clicks in place it’s good. If too long I shave 1/2 mm off and try for the click again. Once I have a tight fit I apply a thin film of wood glue to a 20 mm wide strip down the joint while it’s still in the tube and let it dry. I then line both ends with three more 15mm wide strips set back 4mm from each end of the tube. I hole punch these strips to apply CA glue thru for better adhesion all around. This builds up a thicker interior edge to glue the end plates to. Before the end plates are placed I coat the interior of the tube with CA glue. Hole punch the end plate, coat with CA glue and secure to the baffle with wood glue. Once the lower blast plate is in place and dry I secure a popsicle cross beam to the back side of the blast plate with wood glue. I then secure the top plate to the baffle. One ejection baffle ready for later installation.

 

[Raptor 2]

I redesigned the layout for the centering rings on the thick walled motor mount tube so that one CR is located at the top of the clip location. Revised drawing below. I cut the main frame tube 195 mm from the end of the tube so I could get better access to glue the upper CR to the main frame tube. All three centering rings were glued in using 30 min epoxy. Constructed the lower transition shoulder from cardstock, glued a centering ring to the narrow end and then a second layer of cardstock to the interior of the transition all with canopy glue. Once dry I glued another centering ring with engine nozzle bump outs on to the transition. Glued the thin wall extension to the top of the motor mount tube and the coupler with centering ring to the main frame and top of the extension tube. Glued the ejection baffle into the other main frame tube up 40mm from the bottom so the the coupler can slip in from the bottom later. All couplers were glued in place using canopy glue which doesn't grip as quickly as carpenters glue when doing this.

 

[Raptor 2]

Constructed the details on the backend of the main frame. Printed the AMX drawings out at 76% on cardstock. The parts are glued together with a very thin spread of canopy glue which grips very rapidly. Once cured the parts are coated with CA glue and when dry sanded. The parts were then glued to the bottom plate. This will now be spray painted white.
Also constructed the flared transitions for the SRBs and the engine bells which are double layered cardstock coated with CA glue to harden them.

 

[Raptor 2]

Painted the back end engine section white. Constructed the engine bells from cardstock using autocad drawings for the layout. Bells are constructed of two layers of cardstock using canopy glue. Glued the centering ring to the bottom of the SRB tubes and inserted the three centering rings for the fin tubes using engine thrust blocks. The top ring is cap with a solid plate to act as a stop for the fin tube. The rings were glued in using 30 min epoxy. Glued the flared extension to the bottom of the SRBs using canopy glue again. The extension is the printed AMX wrap printed at 76% on cardstock.

 

[Raptor 2]

Added the wraps to the two SRBs using double sided 3M tape. I cut out a notch in the wraps for the attachment bass wood mountings to be glued directly to the tube. In applying the tape to the back side I left a 1/8” strip bare of tape on the long edges. Once the the wrap is mostly taped to the tube I remove the last section of tape and apply a very thin layer of canopy glue to the long bare edge. I then roll the last section into place and secure the edge with the glue. On narrow tubes the wraps had a tendency to separate along the long edges. The glue has solved that problem. Also glued the nose cones in place using canopy glue. Nose cones were printed from the AMX site and double layered on the inside for more strength.

 

[Raptor 2]

partway through applying the AMX wraps to the main frame. Using 3M double sided tape and canopy glue on the vertical edges of the wrap sections of there are 8 1/2 circumference wraps.The alignment has to precise to get these to come together properly. Nerve wracking.

 

[Raptor 2]

Major components are now completed with the final wraps installed on the main frame. Detailing of the main frame electrical tunnels and conduits remain along with placement of decals printed on cardstock. Also have to complete the attachment strips of basswood to the SRBs and then glue the SRBs to the main frame. Still a ways to go before she is completed.

 

[Raptor 2]

Completed applying the electrical conduits and piping along with the decals to the main frame. Piping braces are made from basswood. Piping conduit are wraps on a 3/16" dowel. Glued the engine nozzle plate to the bottom of the main frame.

 

[NOLA_BAR]

Completed applying the electrical conduits and piping along with the decals to the main frame. Piping braces are made from basswood. Piping conduit are wraps on a 3/16" dowel. Glued the engine nozzle plate to the bottom of the main frame.

Nice collection of scale builds! Curious about the N-1? Kit?

 

[Raptor 2]

Nice collection of scale builds! Curious about the N-1? Kit?

Thanks most are scratch builds. Some are kits like the N1 which you can check out at the web site reallykoolstuff.com.

 

[Raptor 2]

Constructed some of the small detail parts from plastic, basswood and toothpicks for the SRBs. Painted them white and glued them with Canopy glue. Glued the engine nozzles to the bottom of the main frame. Still contemplating installing the conduit run from top to bottom on the SRB sides. This would require painting the red NASA across the plastic 1/2 round strip. Not something I'm looking forward to doing. So still thinking about it.

 

[bguffer]

"This would require painting the red NASA across the plastic 1/2 round strip."

You plan on painting the strip before or after attaching the strip?

 

[Raptor 2]

"This would require painting the red NASA across the plastic 1/2 round strip."

You plan on painting the strip before or after attaching the strip?

I would glue the 1/2 round strip on before painting. The difficult part will be hand painting on the strip and getting the paint to match the red color on the wrap. Doesn't help being color blind.

 

[Raptor 2]

Completed installing the conduit runs on the side of each booster. Polystyrene 1/2 round strips 2.5mm in diameter. Applied double sided 3M tape to the strips and applied them to the boosters. Then used a carmine red pencil crayon to color in the NASA logo on each. Last steps, glue the boosters to the main frame and maybe add the small connecting strut details.

 

[Raptor 2]

Secured the side boosters to the main frame with 30 minute epoxy.

 

[mh9162013]

Slick work, nicely done!

 

[Raptor 2]

Added the strut details to the bottom of the side boosters, installed the parachute anchor and 3/16” launch lugs.
Completed the fin tubes BT-20 tubes with .04” thick clear plastic fins all glued with canopy glue. The model stands 31.5” tall and weighs in at 430 grams, 15.16 oz. with a 30” nylon chute. Will fly on an E30-4T.

 

[neil_w]

Beautiful work.