Aaarrrrrggghhh!

[Bat-mite]

I just spent $300.00 to get my X-Celerator out of a tree. It has been up there for almost four months. Why did I spend the $300? I figured the rocket was worth $100, the altimeter was worth $50, the motor casing and spacers were worth the other $150. It is a fiberglass rocket, well-built, and should be fine.

Well, one of the fins is loose, and I can't get the retainer off. It is a Slimline. I shot it up with WD-40, and I have tried everything I can think of to get it unscrewed, but I can't. So now it is looking like I paid $300 for a $50 altimeter.

Anyone have any ideas how I can get the retainer unscrewed?

 

[tim cubbedge]

Kroil or PB Blaster will get you better results than WD40.

 

[rharshberger]

Kroil or PB Blaster will get you better results than WD40.

+1 KanoKroil (in a pour can) or AeroKroil (in a aerosol can) both are the same product different delivery system.

 

[JDcluster]

Did you see any other rockets nearby??

JD

 

[Titan II]

Blowtorch

 

[astronwolf]

Blowtorch

+1 If the Kroil doesn't do it, heat will break the stuck threads. Works on cars, but will probably scorch your rocket pretty good.

 

[Woody's Workshop]

Try the Dremel Torch. Small, very hot and has a fine line of heat.
Or, a similar butane torch.

 

[Micromeister]

+3 for Kroil! I've had 30year old rusted nut/bolt combinations that have come apart cleanly after allowing a day or two for Kroil penetrating oil to actually break-down the Rust on a microscopic level. If I wanted to these 30 year old fasteners could have been reused. I chose to replace them with Stainless Steel but KROIL is AMAZING STUFF!

 

[rharshberger]

+3 for Kroil! I've had 30year old rusted nut/bolt combinations that have come apart cleanly after allowing a day or two for Kroil penetrating oil to actually break-down the Rust on a microscopic level. If I wanted to these 30 year old fasteners could have been reused. I chose to replace them with Stainless Steel but KROIL is AMAZING STUFF!

I like it as well when removing exhaust manifold bolts which can be notorious for breaking before moving, its also frequently used as a bore cleaner for gun fired with moly coated bullets.

 

[RocketRob]

FG should hold up fine to a warm torch but the epoxy won't hold up so well. Even with JB weld it does not take much heat to come off the MMT.

 

[klewis]

I had an auto repair business for 30 years and Kroil was our go to remedy for nasty rusted bolts and fittings.

 

[markkoelsch]

+3 for Kroil! I've had 30year old rusted nut/bolt combinations that have come apart cleanly after allowing a day or two for Kroil penetrating oil to actually break-down the Rust on a microscopic level. If I wanted to these 30 year old fasteners could have been reused. I chose to replace them with Stainless Steel but KROIL is AMAZING STUFF!

Totally agree on Kroil. Also great for cleaning rifle and pistol barrels.

 

[RAHagen]

Try liquid wrench. That's what I've used in the past on my car. Pour it all over the threads and let it sit there for a couple hours and try again. Or kroil since that sounds like it does the same thing. I'd say your friend is time though. Let it sit as long as possible.

 

[Crumb fire]

Try Target Tap! I use it at work for every screwed things... Let it go inside for 2-3 minutes and try it after. Maybe it's like Kroil.

 

[Bat-mite]

Kroil sounds like a well-loved product. I'll try it.

But, question: since Slimline retainers are aluminum, how did it rust shut in the first place?

 

[KidRockET]

Kroil sounds like a well-loved product. I'll try it.

But, question: since Slimline retainers are aluminum, how did it rust shut in the first place?

Aluminum Oxide...

It's the other white rust...

 

[Bat-mite]

Well, I applied Liquid Wrench four times over the last 20 hours, and it still isn't moving a micrometer. I am really baffled.

 

[dixontj93060]

Probably the last thing you want to do is spend more money, but my tool of choice in dissecting unfortunate events like this is the bi-directional saw from Harbor Freight ($59). They are very stable and cut metal like butter. The 5" blade combo is a bit thick/bulky, but you should be able to slice off the extreme aft end of the Slimline and then "rescue" your motor.

 

[H_Rocket]

Are you using the standard tool to attempt removal? Sort of an "H" shaped thing? I had a stuck retainer and found it would not help at all. After a good soak with penetrating oil, I clamped the air frame in my WorkMate and the using a screwdriver inserted obliquely in one of the two slots and small hammer gently tapped the ring until it came free. It was a serious exercise in patience. While many have had great luck with those internally threaded retainers, I doubt I would ever use one again. I think the thread pitch is too fine and lends itself to these situations. I do like the spiral ring retainers though.

 

[Bat-mite]

Are you using the standard tool to attempt removal? Sort of an "H" shaped thing? I had a stuck retainer and found it would not help at all. After a good soak with penetrating oil, I clamped the air frame in my WorkMate and the using a screwdriver inserted obliquely in one of the two slots and small hammer gently tapped the ring until it came free. It was a serious exercise in patience. While many have had great luck with those internally threaded retainers, I doubt I would ever use one again. I think the thread pitch is too fine and lends itself to these situations. I do like the spiral ring retainers though.

This is the Quik-Lok Slimline, no tool required. Hand-threaded.

 

[Bat-mite]

Probably the last thing you want to do is spend more money, but my tool of choice in dissecting unfortunate events like this is the bi-directional saw from Harbor Freight ($59). They are very stable and cut metal like butter. The 5" blade combo is a bit thick/bulky, but you should be able to slice off the extreme aft end of the Slimline and then "rescue" your motor.

View attachment 277863

Yeah, I thought about taking a hacksaw to it. At our launch on Saturday, if I haven't gotten it free, I will see if Robert DeHate has anything in his trailer that might get it off. But I was hoping to have the motor in hand before I get there.

 

[McKailas Dad]

It hasn't been tested yet, but maybe try this next time. I know, it's not a Slimline, but still...

I used 3, 6-32 set screws. Temporarily permanent, or so I'm hoping...

 

[Exactimator]

Before you start cutting, have you tried tapping it with a hammer?

 

[Micromeister]

Yeah, I thought about taking a hacksaw to it. At our launch on Saturday, if I haven't gotten it free, I will see if Robert DeHate has anything in his trailer that might get it off. But I was hoping to have the motor in hand before I get there.

John:
Before you start cutting: if you can hold off until the January NARHAMS club meeting I'll bring a can of Kroil that You can use. I'm 100% sure it will free your fitting. Rust(Iron Oxide) or Aluminum Oxide I've never had this stuff fail to break down the Oxide after a day or two.
Kroil is on the expansive side but Man is it worth every penny! It is UNLIKE any other penetrating oil on the market. And does things NO other penetrating oil Can do.

 

[rharshberger]

John:
Before you start cutting: if you can hold off until the January NARHAMS club meeting I'll bring a can of Kroil that You can use. I'm 100% sure it will free your fitting. Rust(Iron Oxide) or Aluminum Oxide I've never had this stuff fail to break down the Oxide after a day or two.
Kroil is on the expansive side but Man is it worth every penny! It is UNLIKE any other penetrating oil on the market. And does things NO other penetrating oil Can do.

+1 for Kroil....again

 

[McKailas Dad]

+++1 on Kroil.

I've used it to completely disassemble a 1956 Ford truck....in Wisconsin. I worked on cars for a living, nothing else on the market I have tried even comes close.

 

[Samuron]

Clamp the rocket, clamp a stick to the extraction tool so it has some leverage, use a bungee to put tension on it, and let it sit. Let tension and time break it free.

 

[Exactimator]

Reading this thread has made me want to soak everything I have in Kroil and I don't even have anything that's stuck.


Bat-mite if you don't mind me asking, what cost $300? Did you have to call out a tree trimming company?

 

[jd2cylman]

Reading this thread has made me want to soak everything I have in Kroil and I don't even have anything that's stuck.

I know... Call me Kroil curious now. I have a project at work that is gonna need some form of rust penetrant...

Adrian

 

[rharshberger]

I know... Call me Kroil curious now. I have a project at work that is gonna need some form of rust penetrant...

Adrian

You will not regret the Kroil either product Kano-Kroil or Aero-Kroil, name based on container type, liquid in a can, or liquid in a aerosol can, same product either way. I just looked theres a new to me product Sili-Kroil


https://www.kanolabs.com/