My first Micro "BuckShot"

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Scotty Dog

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Well, built my first micro. The Fliskit "BuckShot" Picked this up at Cmass. One of the first ones out there. Went with Gold and Copper.If I had a rod,I would fly it today.Anywhoo-Nice little rocket Jim.

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I'll say it was one of the first kits. It only went up on the FlisKits website yesterday! :surprised:

Come on people, it's been on the market for 24 hours already. Where are all the Buck Shot kit-bash threads and the the launch pictures of the 4" upscale of it? :p :D
 
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Dang! Those are tiny. Don't think my fat fingers would work too well on MMX birds.

Props to Scotty Dog on his Micro rocket.

Sent from my mobile phone which explains all the typos.
 
Nice looking rocket, by the way. And you did a great job with yours, too! I like the copper and gold combination. On the ring fin, is that a copper stripe on top of a gold background? Wow... :clap:
 
Thanks peoples. The ring I painted Copper first inside and out.Then I masked off 1/4 stripe on center. Then gave just the outside of ring a coat of gold. Cant wait to fly it and also looking forwards to designing my first "Micro Scratcher" :D
 
Thanks peoples. The ring I painted Copper first inside and out.Then I masked off 1/4 stripe on center. Then gave just the outside of ring a coat of gold. Cant wait to fly it and also looking forwards to designing my first "Micro Scratcher" :D
I was wondering how you did that.

At first I thought, "He masked it."

But then I remembered that you cannot mask metallic paint!


Yet there is the proof that somehow you managed to pull that trick off. (No pun.) How the heck did you get away with it?? Alien technology? :y:
 
I was wondering how you did that.

At first I thought, "He masked it."

But then I remembered that you cannot mask metallic paint!


Yet there is the proof that somehow you managed to pull that trick off. (No pun.) How the heck did you get away with it?? Alien technology? :y:
I used Alien Masking Tape. Most likely it worked cuz I didnt know that you couldnt mask metalic paint. Funny how that works.But now I know and it will NEVER work again.:handshake:
 
Flew it today after work.Im impressed. Not much to see. I lost the origanal lug. Had it at work to get a Stainless Filler Welding Rod for launcher. I ended up cutting a Q2 tip protector in half and gel glueing it on. Lets just say they didnt match up to well. [YOUTUBE]iW8juRxSzrE[/YOUTUBE]

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I used Alien Masking Tape. Most likely it worked cuz I didnt know that you couldnt mask metalic paint. Funny how that works.But now I know and it will NEVER work again.:handshake:
It mars the mirror finish of paints such as Chrome and similar types of metallic paint.
 
Thanks.You being a Micro-Pro, Ill ask ya....what is the max weight of a Micro??

Generally speaking- Max performance will be from Micros in the 1.3g to 7.5g mass range.

OK fliers will be Micros with Ewt's between 8g and about 13grams. these depending on Max body dia (frontal area) and mass will get somewhere in the 50 to 90foot altitude range.

Model between 13g and 17g Ewts will be the worst flying but still worth building range. Many in the 13 to 15g range can get decent altitude 30-40feet again depending as much on frontal area as mass.

Heaviest single motor model I've personally gotting to clear the rod or tower (7 to 12 foot ranger) was 18.1 grams making the LOWT around 19.2g.

Heavier stuff needs some sort of booster or staging pods. Now that we have both MMX-II-NE's and the A10-0's are back in production it will be possible to fly micro's with heavier masses like my 10.5mm Micro powered skydarts... as long as they are boosted with an A10-0 The make for some pretty interesting flights.

MM 240a3-sm_T4 SkyDart & T4 Booster_09-07-06.jpg

MM 240b1_Booster Staged13-6mm MM Skydart_09-06-06.jpg

MM 240p02b_Booster staged 10.5mm & 13mm to MMX_09-06-06.jpg
 
Today I flew a 220 Swift on a Micromaxx motor. Blew the nose cone with Kevlar string. It worked great, good height and popped nose cone close to apogee. I could see all of the flight. Weight was probably about 3 grams or a little more.

Larry
 
Today I flew a 220 Swift on a Micromaxx motor. Blew the nose cone with Kevlar string. It worked great, good height and popped nose cone close to apogee. I could see all of the flight. Weight was probably about 3 grams or a little more.

Larry

Larry:
I think ya need to get your Scale calibrated LOL! the 220 swift without conversion and unpainted is over 5 grams... with coversion & Paint mine scaled out at 7.1grams Ewt. LOWT of 8.2g with Teflon stremer.
As observed they are great little micro flyers. a very worthwhile conversion.

MM 343a1-sm_MM 220Swift conversion_03-30-08.jpg
 
You're probably right. It was a little heavier. None the less, it flew very well. I'm just about finished with the Mudwasp, and it appears quite heavy. I have not painted it yet other than a primer. I my just put one coat of something on it and let it go at that.


Larry
 
Ok, you've got my attention. I will add it to my list along with the small Honest John. Nice kit.
 
Scott: it's impossible to beat Jim's tiny spiral launch lugs for the ultimate in cool, but if you are ever stuck again without one, a couple of good sources for substitutes are hollow plastic coffee stirrers and the plastic ink tubes from ballpoint pens.*

(*Soak the tube in a little bit of citrus degreaser to get the ink out. Just put something like a half-inch or so of it into a small container and stand the ink tube up in it. Capillary action will draw the degreaser up into the tube and the solvent will dissolve all of the ink. As it breaks down, it drains back out of the bottom of the tube. So just leave the tube standing up in the can, leaning against the side, overnight. In the morning you will just need to rinse off the tiny bit of remaining citrus solvent under the faucet and then you'll be good to go. One ink tube can be cut up to make a whole bunch of launch lugs.)
 
Scott: it's impossible to beat Jim's tiny spiral launch lugs for the ultimate in cool, but if you are ever stuck again without one, a couple of good sources for substitutes are hollow plastic coffee stirrers and the plastic ink tubes from ballpoint pens.*

(*Soak the tube in a little bit of citrus degreaser to get the ink out. Just put something like a half-inch or so of it into a small container and stand the ink tube up in it. Capillary action will draw the degreaser up into the tube and the solvent will dissolve all of the ink. As it breaks down, it drains back out of the bottom of the tube. So just leave the tube standing up in the can, leaning against the side, overnight. In the morning you will just need to rinse off the tiny bit of remaining citrus solvent under the faucet and then you'll be good to go. One ink tube can be cut up to make a whole bunch of launch lugs.)
Thanks.Good ideas. For my first Micro,I failed major league in not losing parts. I lost the nail just by opening the bag and the lug..thats just a brain teaser,test of attitude. As I said,I even wrapped it(lug) in masking tape and still managed to lose it .
 
Ok, you've got my attention. I will add it to my list along with the small Honest John. Nice kit.
Im going to put in an order here with Jim sometime soon. Funny thing,the HJ you mentioned is on my list. And of course the Stinger.I ve launched the Buchshot 5 times and it gets up there pretty good. I got one motor left. I think Ill just get the case/5-pack of 6 motors? I love comming home and just stepping out back to launch a Micro.
 
Thanks.Good ideas. For my first Micro,I failed major league in not losing parts. I lost the nail just by opening the bag and the lug..thats just a brain teaser,test of attitude. As I said,I even wrapped it(lug) in masking tape and still managed to lose it .

That's par for the course LOL!
When using Jim's clear LL's or lugs from one of his kits I've learned to tape it to the INSIDE of the bag as soon as the kit is opened.

Another pretty decent alternative micro Launch lugs are the small "Dollar Store" Q-tip plastic stems. They must be rough sanded with 120grit paper to adhear well but seem to work fine if you don't mind the larger OD.

My preferred LL's are either spiral roll my own from two strips of computer paper around a .051" wire mandrel (See instruction page below). Which gives me the smallest LL OD making them a little less obtrusive for Scale models and stuff I don't want the extra drag on.

Or for typical sport models use 1/16" Plastistruct styrene tubing with the hole drilled out with a .052" Drill bit in a pin vise. generally I'll cut up a 12" long tube into 1" pieces and Drill out the center holes while doing watching TV or sitting around the living room in the evening, dump them in a small zip lock for use later when needed.

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Tiny Tube making-03.jpg

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I used Alien Masking Tape. Most likely it worked cuz I didnt know that you couldnt mask metalic paint. Funny how that works.But now I know and it will NEVER work again.:handshake:

Now that's funny. Like when Wile E Coyote runs off the edge of the cliff, but doesn't actually fall until he notices that there's nothing under him. As Bugs Bunny once said, "I know this defies the law of gravity, but, you see, I never studied law!"

Very nice looking micro, Scotty. My list of FlisKits future purchases just keeps growing and growing.
 
I couldn't resist picking one of these up at NARAM - it's gonna be a fun build. Also grabbed a MMX Honest John - that'll be fun sitting next to the new Estes version! (now all I gotta do is find some build time - not easy when you're working 12 hour days 5 days a week and live an hour from work).
 
Just got my Buck Shot in the mail today, looking forward to the build. Not next on my list though.
 
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There are different types (not just colors) of metallic paint. I understand now what kind of paint you used, Scott. When I made my first comment, I was thinking back to this discussion:

https://www.rocketryforumarchive.com/showthread.php?t=40108

In particular, I was thinking of Scott Branche's post: https://www.rocketryforumarchive.com/showpost.php?p=485064&postcount=7

This doesn't appear to be the type that you used.

Actually Mark It's not so much the "Metallic" as it is the reflective (Specular) property of the paint ie "Chrome finish, Mirror reflective etc".

Generally We can mask just about any clear embedded "metallic metal" flake paint. It's only the MIRROR finish products that Can't be mask or overcoated...or touched for that matter with anything:( Has something to do with the way the powdered metals "float" and react to itself at the outter most surface that make the difference.
As long as the product doesn't have MIRROR or CHROME in the name they should be usable on our models.
Hope that helps a little.
 
I love this thing. Had a friend up from NC. Again, got to show someone a Rocket launch just by walking out back. That was the last of the motors. Ya know what that means.....time to put in the order.....:cool:
 
WooHOO! What a HOOT! the SteamPunk Buck Shot is a very Nice flier too.
Like just about every micro I flew Saturday it does weather cock a good bit about half way through the motor burn but made a decent first flight though the streamer refused to open in the cool 56° temp.
I'm very pleased with the way it took to the air, Hoping to get it flown a couple more times in the next few days.
I'm With Scotty Dog...this one is really a Joy to fly.

MM 383Lp01a_SteamPunked BuckShot on Pad_10-22-11.jpg

MM 383Lp01b_Steampunked Buck Shot in flight_10-22-11.jpg
 
WooHOO! What a HOOT! the SteamPunk Buck Shot is a very Nice flier too.
.
I'm With Scotty Dog...this one is really a Joy to fly.
And it looks good too. Im glad I picked up some more this weekend. Should have gotten more motors,but the rocket funds are getting low. The wife said Im shut off till I sell something or Secret Santa time. Now thats funny,I dont care who you are.......Here ya go honey :neener:
 
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