Fin Jig

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I agree the Art Rose fin alignment jig and mandrels is the #1 Best.

I have two fin alignment jigs I use one for Micro's to BT-50, & 1 for BT20 to BT-101. both home make pics below.
By using a shim piece of the same thickness as the fin being applied between the top and bottom Jig V plates. The fin/body joint is automatically centered on the body tube perpendicular to the body and always 90 degrees to the tube.
While I still have to locate each fins location of the tube (using a standard Estes tube marking guide) This fin jig ensures all fins are parallel to body tube which is the most important part.

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b1_Front 8in all Alum parts & shims_02-04-11.jpg

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b2_Front assembled_02-04-11.jpg

MM Fin Alignment Jig-b7_3rd fin on T3 model (no clamp)_02-04-11.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-g1_4Pic Page 1of2 11-13- 09_rework-11-05-13.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-g2_2Pic Page 2of2 11-13- 09_rework-11-05-13.jpg

Lg Fin Jig-f_Strapped Test w fin on table11-09_rework11-05-13.jpg
 
Last edited:
BRS Hobbies said:
What technique do you use to accurately cut out the template from the foam core board? I find foam core board to need several passes with a hobby knife and the cuts don't always seem very precise.
Click to expand...

I glue (glue stick) the paper down first (it's probably easier than having the edges flopping about (TopRamen's approach)), then using a new blade, cut the foam using a metal ruler as a cutting guide. I think the thing to remember, is that any imperfections in the cuts will likely be averaged out unless they are really, really, bad.
 
K'Tesh said:
I glue (glue stick) the paper down first (it's probably easier than having the edges flopping about (TopRamen's approach)), then using a new blade, cut the foam using a metal ruler as a cutting guide. I think the thing to remember, is that any imperfections in the cuts will likely be averaged out unless they are really, really, bad.
Click to expand...

I glue the paper to the foamboard. There is nothing, as you so put it, "Flopping about".
I am able to cut the paper more precisely before it is glued to the foamboard. The precise paper becomes a guide for cutting the foamboard.
 
Ok, I hadn't seen all the replies to this thread but the kind I'm looking for is precision combined with an easy to use jig (the only one i know of is the guillotine fin jig, which is pretty easy to use but I'm not sure how accurate it is). The rose jig would be good but from what I've heard they're not available anymore.
 
A while back, there was a person selling the "Ultimate Rocket Fin Jig" I bought the large one with 18, 24 and 29mm mandrels and it has served me well. You can see a picture of the jig in this thread...

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...n-Guide-Three-different-models-to-choose-from

Unfortunately, this person is no longer selling as far as I know. However, I saw something similar on e-bay and you can see them here.. https://www.bmibay.net/finjig.html.

I don't know anything about this seller or the product. However, it looks similar to the jig I have and might be worth looking at depending on your needs and budget.
 
TRFfan said:
Ok, I hadn't seen all the replies to this thread but the kind I'm looking for is precision combined with an easy to use jig (the only one i know of is the guillotine fin jig, which is pretty easy to use but I'm not sure how accurate it is). The rose jig would be good but from what I've heard they're not available anymore.
Click to expand...

I added two things to make my Macklin jig more accurate / repeatable: a spirit level inside the base, and a magnetic level to clamp on the upright fin.

It's only good for gluing fins perpendicular to a straight body, but that's most of what I do anyway.
 
dhbarr said:
I added two things to make my Macklin jig more accurate / repeatable: a spirit level inside the base, and a magnetic level to clamp on the upright fin.

It's only good for gluing fins perpendicular to a straight body, but that's most of what I do anyway.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the guillotine fin jig?
 
For my fin jig, I used a design I've seen a placed around here like https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?9694-Homemade-Fin-Alignment-Guide with a few modifications:
  1. The jig doesn't need a stand. Nestle your rocket in your favorite cradle and strap the jig on top.
  2. I used bungie straps to hold things down. I took 2 long ones and looped them around several times and pulled it. Works great. You can rotate the tube with a good hard turn by hard but it won't shift on it's own. This system eliminated the need for some dowel rods or eyebolts to hold the strapping.
  3. I cut the angles are 30 degrees instead of 45 degrees. The 30 degree angles work better in my opinion. Pictured below is a 4" Patriot. I have a 8" Formula 200 that this jig will fit using a part of spacer blocks to move the angles out.

IMG_7278.jpgIMG_7276.jpg
​

Cost: ~$5 in wood and 15 mins time.
 
NateLowrie said:
For my fin jig, I used a design I've seen a placed around here like https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?9694-Homemade-Fin-Alignment-Guide with a few modifications:
  1. The jig doesn't need a stand. Nestle your rocket in your favorite cradle and strap the jig on top.
  2. I used bungie straps to hold things down. I took 2 long ones and looped them around several times and pulled it. Works great. You can rotate the tube with a good hard turn by hard but it won't shift on it's own. This system eliminated the need for some dowel rods or eyebolts to hold the strapping.
  3. I cut the angles are 30 degrees instead of 45 degrees. The 30 degree angles work better in my opinion. Pictured below is a 4" Patriot. I have a 8" Formula 200 that this jig will fit using a part of spacer blocks to move the angles out.


Cost: ~$5 in wood and 15 mins time.
Click to expand...

Good jig... Works every time
 
NateLowrie said:
For my fin jig, I used a design I've seen a placed around here like https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?9694-Homemade-Fin-Alignment-Guide with a few modifications:
  1. The jig doesn't need a stand. Nestle your rocket in your favorite cradle and strap the jig on top.
  2. I used bungie straps to hold things down. I took 2 long ones and looped them around several times and pulled it. Works great. You can rotate the tube with a good hard turn by hard but it won't shift on it's own. This system eliminated the need for some dowel rods or eyebolts to hold the strapping.
  3. I cut the angles are 30 degrees instead of 45 degrees. The 30 degree angles work better in my opinion. Pictured below is a 4" Patriot. I have a 8" Formula 200 that this jig will fit using a part of spacer blocks to move the angles out.


Cost: ~$5 in wood and 15 mins time.
Click to expand...



Dude. Thank you. So. So. Much. The referenced link will solve so much of my heartache.
 
dford said:
Dude. Thank you. So. So. Much. The referenced link will solve so much of my heartache.
Click to expand...

Not a problem. Check out this blog post, this TRF thread and this TRF thread for variations. Looks like the jig originated in design from McCoy's micro wonderworks.

The leather (or nylon) straps and the stand are nice for models through 54mm because the rocket airframe has a difficult time supporting the jig. I am planning on building one like that for small models.

For 3" and above it is much easier to forego the stand and just have it jig positioned vertically on the tube. The bungies really worked well for me and I would recommend that. I would also recommend a 30 degree cut because it sits on the larger tubes better than a 45 degree cut. I am looking into the feasibility of permanently mounting small ratchet straps instead of the bungies.
 
NateLowrie said:
Not a problem. Check out this blog post, this TRF thread and this TRF thread for variations. Looks like the jig originated in design from McCoy's micro wonderworks.

The leather (or nylon) straps and the stand are nice for models through 54mm because the rocket airframe has a difficult time supporting the jig. I am planning on building one like that for small models.

For 3" and above it is much easier to forego the stand and just have it jig positioned vertically on the tube. The bungies really worked well for me and I would recommend that. I would also recommend a 30 degree cut because it sits on the larger tubes better than a 45 degree cut. I am looking into the feasibility of permanently mounting small ratchet straps instead of the bungies.
Click to expand...

I do it upside down... The rocket sits on the jig. Fin points down. Just make sure you clamp the fin in place and bungee the rocket down.

Check out the pictures in any of my build threads. Demon 98 comes to mind
 
CzTeacherMan said:
I do it upside down... The rocket sits on the jig. Fin points down. Just make sure you clamp the fin in place and bungee the rocket down.

Check out the pictures in any of my build threads. Demon 98 comes to mind
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I saw the video earlier in the thread that did the same thing. What's the reason for going upside down? I will say that on the bottom or on the top is definitely better than on the side.
 
man O man. I had some left over MDF from making my sons batmobile bed....
I live in an apt. I have pretty basic tools. Angled the base plate on a jig saw, cut the length of wood. Let my son cut 2/3 off. Clamped the two angled edges flush. Palm sanded both to the same angle, whatever that is. Flipped the short piece over, lined it up. Clamped, drilled holes, dropped bolts. VOILA!
I did a quick test fit and looked DEAD on!
Now THAT is easy and reliable!

Thanks again!
 

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