Never tried Tamiya paints before. Will one can of Aluminum and the White be enough? I would think the one of the black will be enough.
Just curious, if one is to be used, what would you recommend as a flat clear overcoat???
I simply LOVE your use of RTV rubber for getting the decal down where it belongs.
John Boren
Just curious, if one is to be used, what would you recommend as a flat clear overcoat???
John, how are non RTV rubber owning builders expected to do this? Is there a method to get those decals down in the grooves discussed in the directions, or being a level 4 kit did you plan on us knowing a way ourselves?
One can of each should be plenty, although you might pick up an extra can of gloss aluminum. Be sure to use the Tamiya primer for the plastic parts, too.
James
...a homemade decal (or decal from another source) may react differently than the kit decal.
One of the worst experiences I had was a clear coat that literally attacked the decal, ruining it.
They are out of stock on the Tamiya White Primer . How is their Fine Surface Primer Light Gray?
So, to me, the biggest trick is using Micro Set, not just water. And actually, I was intending to use Micro Sol, which is a more aggressive decal liquid, softens them up even more, but the hobby store was out of it. But that might have caused problems with the initial application. So now I think that a good way would be a one-two punch, using Micro Set to get the decal on and the initial snuggle down, then for any trouble areas, then break out the Micro Sol.
For those who can't justify getting any setting solution at all, then try White Vinegar. I do not recall if Micro Set is simply 100% White Vinegar, or not. Also.... test.....
John, how are non RTV rubber owning builders expected to do this?
Not saying in can't happened but of all the flights we've put on test models, it's not happened yet.
John Boren
Today I discovered that the A near the spice ring had a void under part of it.
I applied Micro Set, let it sit bit, applied more Micro Set, then pushed the RTV negative pattern over it and let it sit. A few hours later, it looks good. Without the RTV pattern, I may have perhaps used a small needle to puncture the clear part of the void, then apply Micro Set and repeat every 15 mins or so for awhile, and carefully pressed with a brush by the 3rd application. Or if Id had something stronger Id have used Micro Sol, or Solvaset as James Duffy mentioned.
Hit that puppy with some Solvaset, slice it open with a sharp blade, and it should settle right down into the corrugation.
The model looks great, George! I really look forward to seeing it with the final wraps in place. The silver you've chosen really turned out nicely.
+100 on this. In particular the Testors spray clear products (matte and gloss) have a long and infamous history of attacking decal materials, which is one of the reasons that I am such a vocal proponent of using only airbrushed acrylic clear overcoats.
James
I think everyone needs to buy two of these kits. One to quickly throw together and fly and one to build for a display model, and one to store away for the future. So make that everybody needs to buy at least three of these kits.
John Boren
I keep waiting for someone other than George to start their build...anyone out there working on one of these yet? If you're somehow intimidated by this kit, you really shouldn't be. I've only got about 15 hours invested so far, and should be done before the clock reaches 20 hours. C'mon, get to work!
James
* I know this isn't a word, but it should be.
I hate to reduce sales of this kit but there are plans on selling a replacement set for the capsule parts in the near future. Sorry, but I don't know what the price is but I'm sure it will only be offered on the Estes web site.
John Boren
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