Ultimate Wildman - L3 Cert Build

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Ok, here's the method I came up with for installing straight fins on a 6" rocket.

View attachment 253846

Each fin slot is transferred 180 degrees and marked with a line. Two 8"x12" framing squares are clamped together to form a U. One long side of U is clamped to fin. Other long side of U gets lined up with line on opposite side. This should provide a straight fin.

Hi Jeff,

This is exactly what I do and it's always worked great for me.

I built my Ultimate Wildman last year, and successfully completed my Level 3 flight last August. Great choice of rocket, looking forward to watching your build. If you have any questions, please feel free to message me at any time.
 
Hi Jeff,

This is exactly what I do and it's always worked great for me.

I built my Ultimate Wildman last year, and successfully completed my Level 3 flight last August. Great choice of rocket, looking forward to watching your build. If you have any questions, please feel free to message me at any time.

Thanks! I think the build is coming along pretty well. Hopefully I can get a cert flight in by the end of year.
 
Thanks! I think the build is coming along pretty well. Hopefully I can get a cert flight in by the end of year.

I agree, seems like you are on the right track with the build! Everything is looking great so far.
 
he likes the potential failure points? Dude use one for each, no mas.....
There was a point where you mighta needed that many, but modern altimeters don't require that
No kidding!

I do not want to turn this into a debate because this has already been discussed on other threads. The NAR L3 High Power Cert Requirements states:

2.4 The capability must exist to externally disarm all pyrotechnic devices on-board the rocket. In this context, ‘disarm’ means the ability to physically break the connection between a pyrotechnic system and its power source. Simply turning off the device controlling the pyrotechnic(s) may not be sufficient.

I'm using one switch for device, one switch for apogee pyro, and one switch for main pyro. Does this add extra failure points? Yes. But pyro switches will be armed first and altimeter will tell me good continuity when its armed so I think I will be good. Again, I know all the arguments for and against but I decided to build my L3 cert rocket this way. I may or may not change it after a successful cert flight.
"May not be sufficient" is an arbitrary statement...
 
Stay the course Jeff, it all looks fine. There has been some debate about this, I wonder if anyone's brought it up to the NAR? Guess it's more fun to armchair quarterback anyway. Commentary like this is exactly why I chose not to document my build here. I'm planning to set mine up much the same, unless something changes in the rules in the near future. Looking good.
 
Jeff- everything is looking good and as I understand the NAR expectations - your right on course. My armchair comment is " can't wait to see your L3 attempt. "
 
everyone's got to fly the way they want to....
but i did cert L3 with NAR. The switches are what you see the bottom of toward the middle of the ebay...that way when you do the blind stab to turn them on, you can't hit anything important. Gottaa confess I like extra batteries and the weight didn't seem important
ebay.JPG
 
I have been following this thread since it's start, and really enjoyed the discussions. I started a thread for my L-3 build and it turned into a monster:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?66950-Wayco%92s-Dark-Star-Extreme

Never regretted doing it, despite some of the questions it raised. That's what this forum is for.
I think your L-3 build should be an expression of what your skill set has developed into. I had an Ultimate DS my wife bought for me, already sitting in the build pile, but didn't want to use it for my L-3 because it was too big of a step from the 3" DS I had just finished. So I built an Extreme DS. Now that I have a few M motors flown, I think I'm ready for the Ultimate.
I really don't see an issue with switches, and that is a discussion you would have with your TAPS, not us arm chair generals....
 
I think your L-3 build should be an expression of what your skill set has developed into. I had an Ultimate DS my wife bought for me, already sitting in the build pile, but didn't want to use it for my L-3 because it was too big of a step from the 3" DS I had just finished. So I built an Extreme DS. Now that I have a few M motors flown, I think I'm ready for the Ultimate.

I agree. Last year I built a 4" Darkstar Dual Deploy and in someways I think it was a little more challenging because of the split fins. I did debate between the Extreme and Ultimate Wildman. I chose the Ultimate because I could fly it an 'M' and keep it under 10,000' (waiver at Bong).
 
After a couple days in the hospital to have a defibrillator implanted, I'm home today recovering and working a little on this project. All switch holes drilled, switch band epoxied on coupler, and three 1/4" vent holes drilled for altimeters.
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1423779182.646031.jpg
 
Thanks Russ and Gary. Still sore but feel like I need to do something. I drilled a 5/32" hole 12 inches from top of booster for venting. Also drilled two 1/2" holes for 1515 rail buttons with wellnuts from Dog House Rocketry.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1423857200.834903.jpg

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1423857220.160164.jpg
 
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The kit comes with Wildman's new aluminum bulk plates for the ebay coupler. The coupler looks to be thicker wall than the airframe and the bulk plates don't quite fit (difficult to see in photo). I'll have do some sanding to inside of coupler ends. No problem, it is a build after all.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1423857944.385197.jpg
 
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Looking at what stills needs to be completed (in no particular order):

Internal Fin Fillets
External Fin Fillets
Complete Electronic Bay
Drill and Install Payload/EBay Rivets
Drill Vent hole for Payload
Complete Installation of Nosecone Bulk Plate
Install shock cords and parachutes
Prime and Paint

I have most of the materials needed for the EBay. Haven't decided yet if I'm going to use two RRC3s from Missile Works or use one RRC3 and one StratoLoggerCF from PerfectFlite.
Still need to order parachutes but thinking of going with a 15" TFR Standard Parachute for drogue and a 144" Crossfire Parachute for main from Top Flight Recovery.
Also looking at trying Onebadhawk Recovery Harnesses for shock cords.
 
Looking at what stills needs to be completed (in no particular order):

Internal Fin Fillets
External Fin Fillets
Complete Electronic Bay
Drill and Install Payload/EBay Rivets
Drill Vent hole for Payload
Complete Installation of Nosecone Bulk Plate
Install shock cords and parachutes
Prime and Paint

I have most of the materials needed for the EBay. Haven't decided yet if I'm going to use two RRC3s from Missile Works or use one RRC3 and one StratoLoggerCF from PerfectFlite.
Still need to order parachutes but thinking of going with a 15" TFR Standard Parachute for drogue and a 144" Crossfire Parachute for main from Top Flight Recovery.
Also looking at trying Onebadhawk Recovery Harnesses for shock cords.

I think your picks for chutes and harness are spot on. Gary at Top Flight has always done excellent work and service for me.
Teddy at Onebadhawk makes excellent harness - my opinion there really good for multiple point attachments or head end deployment where you can "y" off the main harness to get chute out of way if your using redundancy.
 
Thanks Russ and Gary. Still sore but feel like I need to do something. I drilled a 5/32" hole 12 inches from top of booster for venting. Also drilled two 1/2" holes for 1515 rail buttons with wellnuts from Dog House Rocketry.

View attachment 254717

View attachment 254718

Nice, I did jack nuts on mine for the buttons: https://www.mcmaster.com/#jack-nuts/=vws2l0
Sorta like the well nuts but metal. I had to drill through the motor tube but the end of the jack nut just barely went into the motor area. When I screwed/cinched it down, the end retracted up into the space between the motor tube and body tube.
Best of luck with the attempt.

Internal fillets I did before the aft ring went on. I used a long silicone tube swaged to a syringe. Positioned it and withdrew, injecting the Duralco 4525IP as I went. External fillets I used PowerPoxy Weld that is no longer available. On a Dominator 4 I used Duralco
4524IP for the external fillets and it worked out surprisingly nice. Duralco costs too much and has a short shelf life. I won't do that again. Proline epoxy is a nice product. Kurt
 
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Not everything goes as planed, but adjustments are made. So I typically use plastic rivets to hold Payload and Electronic Bay Coupler together.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1424284582.213799.jpg

But I wasn't happy with how they were fitting and wasn't confident with them in this size rocket. So I decided to use Brad Holes and screws. First I thought I could countersink them into coupler.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1424284795.033283.jpg

Couldn't make that work so Payload Section could slide on. Solution is I will epoxy Brad Holes to inside of coupler.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1424284908.098013.jpg

No problem with clearances for Electronic Bay. Uses #8-32 screws.
 
Did a little work on the Electronic Bay today. Mounted Altimeters (decided to use two RRC3 Altimeters), and mounted 9 volt battery holders.
 
Looks good. Might want to think about a third button on the payload tube. After I did my cert flight I added one. Those hydraulic towers stop quick and the rocket builds up a lot of inertia. Another solution is using a strap there until it's raised up.
 
Might want to think about a third button on the payload tube.

Was thinking about a third rail button. Decided to wait to see how it does on a shakedown flight or do a test fit on a rail. (Our club doesn't use a hydraulic rail so not sure that would be an issue.)
 
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Jeff
I thought I might see you at Bong yesterday. Not a bad day at all, very low winds, clouds were a little low for motors over a K. Also a good crowd of flyers.
Gary
 
I had always thought of adding a third rail button to my Ultimate Darkstar. Have not had it on a hydraulic lift but in case I do. I had an idea of mounting it on the switchband so it would self adjust on the rail as long as you are willing to friction fit the booster to the av bay. In hindsight friction fitting is not a good idea on a rocket that large.
 
Jeff
I thought I might see you at Bong yesterday. Not a bad day at all, very low winds, clouds were a little low for motors over a K. Also a good crowd of flyers.
Gary

I wanted to be there Gary. Still a little sore from surgery and also battling bronchitis so decided to stay home. Hope to be there next month.
 
Just placed order for recovery harnesses from Onebadhawk. Ordered one 30' 3-loop and one 34' 2-loop 3/4" Tubular Black Kevlar harnesses. Great, great service from Ted at Onebadhawk!
 
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Just placed order for recovery harnesses from Onebadhawk. Ordered one 30' 3-loop and one 34' 2-loop 3/4" Tubular Black Kevlar harnesses. Great, great service from Ted at Onebadhawk!

Super cool build Jeff,,
I only wish I could be there for the flights...
Such an exciting time..
When a rocket this big flies for the first time,,,
talk about a nail biter...lol...

Thank you Jeff,,

Teddy
 
Just ordered my parachutes from Top Flight Recovery. Should just leave motor(s) and motor hardware needed to purchase for this project.
 
Looking good so far, Jeff!

My Dad just notified me of this thread, so I thought I'd check it out....he got a Black Saturday Ult. WM for Christmas. We have a pair of the 144" Crossfires; my favorite chute ever, you're going to love it...what colors did you go with?

Looking back at Chad's question regarding the molded cone: the listing on Black Saturday clearly listed the molded (PML) cone...late Nov. was after Tim broke up with Curtis. :wink:

Keep up the good work! Hope to see it at Bong later this year!

-Eric-
 
Looking good so far, Jeff!

My Dad just notified me of this thread, so I thought I'd check it out....he got a Black Saturday Ult. WM for Christmas. We have a pair of the 144" Crossfires; my favorite chute ever, you're going to love it...what colors did you go with?

Looking back at Chad's question regarding the molded cone: the listing on Black Saturday clearly listed the molded (PML) cone...late Nov. was after Tim broke up with Curtis. :wink:

Keep up the good work! Hope to see it at Bong later this year!

-Eric-

Thanks Eric. My main parachute will be the 144" Crossfire. It will mainly be Neon Orange with some Black. The rocket I'm painting Orange and Black but think I'll keep the nosecone White because I don't want it to look too Halloweeny. Also will probably add White Ultimate Wildman lettering from Stickershock23.

Everything's looking good for a flight later this year at Bong.
 
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