Best AV bay

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Pyropetepete

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I need to make an AV bay to fit my PML Quantium tube that's 3"

Worth buying a kit that's already out there or make my own using a PML 5" coupler?

Any ideas what I should include
 
For my first 2 AV-bays, I made my own for a few reasons. First, I wanted to know how to do it. It's a valueable skill. Secondly, I wanted to be able to include all the things I wanted, and none of those that I didn't. I didn't have to make any compromises. Also, I had all the materials. My dad does woodworking, so I didn't need to buy any wood or tools, and all-thread can be had pretty cheaply. I also enjoy the engineering process, designing something, redesigning it, and troubleshooting it until I'm satisfied. So, I'd recommend making your own. with 3", there shouldn't be much trouble fitting anything, and you'll have plenty of room on the bulkheads. If you decide to buy, and you have a missileworks altimeter, they make some very nice sleds.

Nate
 
I personally would make my own but I prefer to have no less than 1 caliber of coupler inserting into the body tube. In your case with a 1 inch switch band the coupler for the avbay would be 7 inches.
My two pennies for what it is worth.
 
Last edited:
I would make one from scratch. For my first av-bay, I used a Missile Works 3D printed sled and while they're nice, it confines you to a single layout. The next av-bay I make will be completely my own design.


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nute said:
For my first 2 AV-bays, I made my own for a few reasons. First, I wanted to know how to do it. It's a valueable skill. Secondly, I wanted to be able to include all the things I wanted, and none of those that I didn't. I didn't have to make any compromises. Also, I had all the materials. My dad does woodworking, so I didn't need to buy any wood or tools, and all-thread can be had pretty cheaply. I also enjoy the engineering process, designing something, redesigning it, and troubleshooting it until I'm satisfied. So, I'd recommend making your own. with 3", there shouldn't be much trouble fitting anything, and you'll have plenty of room on the bulkheads. If you decide to buy, and you have a missileworks altimeter, they make some very nice sleds.

Nate
Click to expand...

Plus a thousand....

I couldn't have said it better myself............................

Teddy
 
I love Jim Amos's 3D printed sleds. Go with MissleWorks!
 
So I'm converting a kit for dual deploy this why the bay is needed.

A stock PML 3" dia coupler is 5" long so that's what i had worked with.

I could ditch the 1" band if I made the hole for the arm switch larger and so it was mounted in the coupler. Would have too play around with this. Anyone have ideas on this?

Was more to the parts and layout for making my own as well I need to workout.

I have a ST100 and am sticking with it.
 
Would ask for feedback on how a 8" BlueTube coupler would fit.

In my 2.6 PML tube the BlueTube was a bit loose..think 2 wraps of tape, not a single to snug it up.

The std PML coupler is too wimpy, and too short.

3 inch is big enough to do redundant altimeters, maybe a RRC2+ or eGGtimer would be a good secondary unit.

Do the Wildman style Av-bay lids, with a pair of fg coupler bulkheads and airframe bulkheards to make the caps.

Doghouse has the best wiring, connectors and switches right now , and would recommend nylon standoffs for mounting the altimeters and 1/16th G10 fiberglass for sled or even cheap doorskin luan 2.8mm plywood from home store.

Kenny
 
Go with one of Landru13's 3D printed sleds, they are tapped for the ST100 already, self contained battery holder is built into the back of the sled, you'll need to get a Schurtner 110/220 rotary switch, Dog House charge wells, Dog House wire kit, strip terminals, eye-bolts or U-bolts, some #10 all-thread, nuts & washers, two 3" coupler bulkplates and two 3" airframe bulkplates. Your 5" PML coupler tube will work fine, you don't need a switch band with Landru's sleds, just an access hole for a small flat screw driver head to pass through. put 2" of the coupler into your upper airframe and attach it with PEM nuts & button head screws or removable plastic rivets, that will still leave you one caliber or 3" into your booster section.
 
sharkbait said:
Go with one of Landru13's 3D printed sleds, they are tapped for the ST100 already, self contained battery holder is built into the back of the sled, you'll need to get a Schurtner 110/220 rotary switch, Dog House charge wells, Dog House wire kit, strip terminals, eye-bolts or U-bolts, some #10 all-thread, nuts & washers, two 3" coupler bulkplates and two 3" airframe bulkplates. Your 5" PML coupler tube will work fine, you don't need a switch band with Landru's sleds, just an access hole for a small flat screw driver head to pass through. put 2" of the coupler into your upper airframe and attach it with PEM nuts & button head screws or removable plastic rivets, that will still leave you one caliber or 3" into your booster section.
Click to expand...

Got a link to his sled?

Will using the 5" work okay?

Thanks for the advice in the bulkheads. Now I understand this process. I can glue these together and bolt together so all lined up.

How many plastic rivets will be okay, the ones I got need a 6mm hole. Thinking a total of 3?

Sound good with no switch hole needed. Just drill vent holes all the way through.
 
Pyropetepete said:
Got a link to his sled?

Will using the 5" work okay?

Thanks for the advice in the bulkheads. Now I understand this process. I can glue these together and bolt together so all lined up.

How many plastic rivets will be okay, the ones I got need a 6mm hole. Thinking a total of 3?

Sound good with no switch hole needed. Just drill vent holes all the way through.
Click to expand...

www.etsy.com/shop/landru13

5" will be fine, put 2" into the upper airframe and 3" into the lower airframe

I usually match the number of fins on small rockets, 3 fins = 3 rivets or 4 fins = 4 rivets

Once you see the sled it will become clearer to you as to where to drill your switch/static port hole, you only need one 5/32" hole it will be both your switch access hole and static port hole
 
sharkbait said:
www.etsy.com/shop/landru13

5" will be fine, put 2" into the upper airframe and 3" into the lower airframe

I usually match the number of fins on small rockets, 3 fins = 3 rivets or 4 fins = 4 rivets

Once you see the sled it will become clearer to you as to where to drill your switch/static port hole, you only need one 5/32" hole it will be both your switch access hole and static port hole
Click to expand...

This one? https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/177852785/76mm-altimeter-sled?ref=related-2
 
That's the site.
You could use the 76mm sled. If you want a little more internal room in the AV bay, you could use the 54mm sled. If you want redundancy, you can put back to back 38mm sleds. If this is your first crack at an building an E-bay and you don't want dual altimeters, I would suggest going with the 54mm sled, it will allow you a little more room for error. Good Luck.
 
sharkbait said:
That's the site.
You could use the 76mm sled. If you want a little more internal room in the AV bay, you could use the 54mm sled. If you want redundancy, you can put back to back 38mm sleds. If this is your first crack at an building an E-bay and you don't want dual altimeters, I would suggest going with the 54mm sled, it will allow you a little more room for error. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea that. Have placed my order

54mm Altimeter Sled
Mobius HD Camera Shroud

Not go get the coupler, bulk plates

Thank you for your help
 
Just ordered

3x 5" long 3" dia PML couplers
4x 3" PML airframe bulkheads
4x 3" PML coupler bulkheads

Extras incase I fail. Thinking maybe of cutting a slot out of one coupler so it sits inside and slightly shorter in length.
 
Pyropetepete said:
I could ditch the 1" band if I made the hole for the arm switch larger and so it was mounted in the coupler. Would have too play around with this. Anyone have ideas on this?

I have a ST100 and am sticking with it.
Click to expand...

My first av-bay was for 2.25 OD, 2.00 ID mailing tubes. I made my own av-bay tube along with end caps and sled. I made my next av-bays, 4" and 3" so the same sled would fit in both of them. It was a matter of locating the all-thread.

The last one, I didn't use a switch band at all. I used a home made screw switch with a #6 brass screw. The hole for it was about 0.25". The vent holes were about 0.060". The payload tube was attached to the upper part of the av-bay with two screws that anchored in the av-bay. The bottom of the payload tube was notched for each of the vent holes and the screw switch which were locate just above the joint. This leaves the top surface of the lower BT smooth and unmodified. this has worked great.
 
I bought one of the Landru13's 3D printed sleds, this is for my ST100. I want to use this in a different rocket also.

Components for the setup I got so far...

Blue Tube 2.0
2X 20" x 4" airframe sections
1X 8" x 4" coupler

One side is drouge the other main. Couplers/bulk plates I know of.

Do I just mount the airframe on 4" of coupler each side using some plastic rivets (12 total perhaps, 6 either side) and one section of airframe has a hole to vent the bay and access the switch for the altimeter. This means I ditch the 1" vent band.

Just want too get this right before I do anything.
 

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