BT80 Mosquito Build Thread

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bigone5500

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Well I finished the mosquito today. All but the shock cord and parachute.

The list of parts are as follows:

  • Fins: 1/8" Basswood
  • Centering rings: Mat board
  • Airframe: Red Arrow Hobbies BT80 size tube
  • Motor tube: Red Arrow Hobbies BT50 size tube
  • E length motor hook
  • Nosecone: Estes Fat Boy style plastic
  • Shock cord: 1/4" poly elastic
  • Shock cord leader: 400# Kevlar cord
  • Motor block: 1/4" section of used motor tube
  • Parachute: 18" nylon
I started by printing the fin pattern from rocksim and tracing onto a sheet of basswood. The fins have a fintab as I feel the length of them call for the extra strength and also I plan on flying it on F reloads. After cutting the fins and sanding to size, I printed four centering ring templates and cut them out then glued them to 1/16" mat board with 3M super77 spray adhesive. After that had time to set, I cut them out with my Olfa circle cutter. My method for cutting them is to press the needle point into the center cross hair then soak the hole with thin CA while pressing the needle into the hole to keep it from being filled with hardened CA. I set the cutter blade to a bit larger than the outer diameter of the CR. After a few passes, I turned the mat board over and made another hole with the needle and hardened it too with CA. I usually cut half way through on both sides to get a good cut. After cutting the four out, I proceeded to cut the centers out. I set the blade a bit smaller than the inner dia. After they were all cut, I used Titebond II and coated one CR on the side opposite the template I had glued on as I was leary that the paper would come off. I clamped them between two boards for about an hour. When they were tacked well, I used a dremel with a small sanding drum and found this to be tedious. So I used my 1/4 sheet sander to finish the outside edges.

I cut my motor tube my usual way by marking the tube all the way around with my estes fin marking alignment tool and wrapped some masking tape around it to guide my hobby knife as I made many passes around it to cut. I used the same method on the main airframe. I glued the motor block into the MMT tube and reinforced it by placing an extra bead of Titebond II on the end. I cut a slit 1/4" from the same end as the motor block for the engine hook. I wrapped a couple rounds of masking tape to secure the hook and smeared a film of Titebond II to keep the tape from peeling back. When this was dry, I glued the CRs to the tube.

I marked the airframe using my estes tube marking guide and making my lines with a door frame. I used a 6" rule to mark my fin slots by laying it on the line I marked and making tick marks on both sides to make a 1/8" wide slot. I used the estes fin alignment guide to make these lines. The photo shows the fin slots as not extending to the rear of the tube but I ended up cutting the slot all the way back for ease of inserting the MMT/fin assembly.

After the MMT had time to dry, I tried tacking the fins on with titebond II but this proved tougher than I had planned. I ultimately used epoxy on them and I think this was a wise choice for fins of this length. I inserted the MMT into the airframe and tacked the fins on using the BT to aid in both holding them and for alignment. When they were tacked well enough, I took the assembly out and added more epoxy for fillets and also put some where the tabs meet the aft CR.

Next I drilled a hole into the forward CR and inserted the 400# Kevlar then tied it to the MMT tube and secured the knot with CA and also CA'd the loop to the MMT tube. I wicked some thin CA into the hole I drilled to help keep it from tearing through. I then inserted the MMT/fin assembly into the rocket and glued it in place with epoxy. I also tied a barrel swivel to the end of the Kevlar and put a drop of CA on the knot.

When the epoxy was dry, I masked off the airframe and fins for the epoxy fillets. I use US Composites epoxy with microballoons. I applied epoxy to all fins at the same time and after removing the tape, I smoothed them out with an alcohol dipped finger.

At this point all that is left is to attach the shock cord and parachute to the nosecone. This was a fun build and I recommend anyone that likes the estes mosquito to build one of this size.

Pics attached...

Fins.jpg

Centering Ring Templates Glued On.jpg

Centering Rings Cut 1.jpg

Centering Rings Cut 2.jpg

Fin Slot Marked.jpg
 
Oh yeah...forgot to mention...I am receiving a Pulitzer Prize for this entry....:lol:
 
[...]
This was a fun build and I recommend anyone that likes the estes mosquito to build one of this size.

I agree --here's mine. Lug is 1/2" to look "big", with a 1/4" one hidden inside.

Flies on 24mm reloads - the F39 is pretty fun, and seems to accelerate like the little ones!
 
Looks like we have a MicroMeister wanabe.


;);)


What program did you use to print off the rings I can't find one that works for my mac.
 
I agree --here's mine. Lug is 1/2" to look "big", with a 1/4" one hidden inside.

Flies on 24mm reloads - the F39 is pretty fun, and seems to accelerate like the little ones!

I like the skeeter decal on the nose. But one question...what motor does Buzz fly on??? :D
 
All I need to do now is build my BT50 and BT60 skeeters and I'll have all the basic tube size skeeters...hmmm...I need a HPR skeeter...maybe I'll shoot sandman an email for a custom 4" basswood cone...oops did I say 4"? :surprised:
 
My BT-80 Mosquito is now retired after about 30 flights... I loved every one of them!:D
 
I didn't mean any harm just saying. I am working on a 60 and 70 skeeter and it isn't doing so well right now.
 
Time and supplies to work on it. The Plywood I had warped and no mater what I did it wouldn't go back so I threw it away.
 
"Mozzy" is the Australian slang for mosquito. Since you've built one, you've paid your dues!
 
"Mozzy" is the Australian slang for mosquito. Since you've built one, you've paid your dues!

I"m currently working on a BT60 version at the moment. I wish I had taken pics of the build so far but alas I didn't. I dropped the awesome sandman nosecone earlier and put a dent in it. I'll have to fill it with something...:rolleyes:
 
I did the same thing. Try this first: Put a few drops of water right on the dent. It will cause the wood fibers to swell, and will very likely push the dent right back out. Once it dries, then consider filling it.
 
I did the same thing. Try this first: Put a few drops of water right on the dent. It will cause the wood fibers to swell, and will very likely push the dent right back out. Once it dries, then consider filling it.

The dent is 1/4" x 3/8"...is that too big for this method?
 
I think I will use some carpenters' wood filler and see what comes from it. I want to harden the end of the cone though and am thinking of using CA to do it. This may swell the cone will it not???
 
Even if the dent is that big, whatever swells back out from the water will be that much less you have to fill. Seriously, try it.

As for the CA: It may swell a tiny bit, but not much. Besides, you'll have to sand it a little for finishing it.
 
Time and supplies to work on it. The Plywood I had warped and no mater what I did it wouldn't go back so I threw it away.

On my BT-80 Skeeter, I used two layers of 1/8" balsa, with a core of 6 oz. fiberglass to toughen. I wanted the fins to be "scale thick", and nice and rounded, which made balsa a good choice. I also glassed the outsides with 3/4 oz. cloth, going down between fins and over the big fillets, so they were super tough. It was certainly overkill, but I was trying out glassing on Estes tubes then, and it added lots of toughness with little weight increase. In fact, it was so thin, that the plastic nose cone shoulder matched the tube very well.

I squeegeed most of the epoxy off, and had little sanding to do before priming. If one is good at glassing tubes, it is almost the easiest way to fill the spiral seams.
 
I have never done glassing before so I would have to practice and learn how.
 
Awesome looking skeeter.


I actually got the fins form my 60 skeeter ready now all I need are a couple more things and it will be done.
 
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