melting lead

When I was a kid making matchbox derby cars with my dad, we used to melt lead in a very heavy cast-iron (?) ladle on a burner on the electric kitchen stove. Then we would pour the molten lead into a hollowed out trough in the base of the car to get the desired weight.

Well, now I need to pour molten lead into the head of my albatross ((link) . I have lead fishing weights from Walmart. What stuff do I have at home that I can use for the task??? I don't have a heavy ladle or crucible sitting around in the basement!

I do have a hot white gas camping stove, if it is no longer considered safe to use the kitchen stove. But what can I use to melt it in? Also, will "lead vapors" turn my kids into drooling zombies?

Geof

you can still buy new cast iron pans, check at most hardware stores. but I bet you can get one from Goodwill for $1 or so.

A propane torch and my wife's favorite stainless steel ladle worked for me. Do it outdoors.

the white gas stove will work fine--I used that for years melting down used wheel balancing weights (being discarded by local tire shops) for cub scout pinewood derby cars.

we used an old cast iron skillet. make sure you wear heavy leather gloves (like welder's gloves) and even add a hot mitt.

tire weights worked out great! the tire shops have to pay someone to haul them off--we recycled them. after the lead melts, use a pair of pliers to retrieve the the steel clips. you might have to scoop off some "dross" of dirt and oil--I used a heavy-duty putty knife for that.

I use this from Micro-Mark and a propane torch.

In theory cooking lead in your kitchen is bad because of the potential for contamination. If you have someplace else to cook it, do it there.

The actual vapor over the lead is nominal and is actually worse if done in an environ that is windy. Lead vapor is "heavy" and stays close to the molten lead.
Make sure that the area is well ventilated but not "breezy".

Any ladle that won't degrade at the temperature that lead melts at will be fine.
Note: once used for lead, don't use it for food.

Heck, when I was a kid we didn't have no stinken' ladle! We used a tin can and a pair of pliers!! Oh yaeh and a propane torch.

Q: Why do you want to use molten lead? Unless you need to get the absolute highest density, you should be able to just pour the loose fishing sinkers into the hole. That way you can easily add or subtract weight until you get the balance point you want. Then seal them in place with epoxy.

I'd be afraid that the hot lead would damage the nice finish on the outside of the head (not to mention your hand if it spills).

Originally posted by BobCox
Q: Why do you want to use molten lead? Unless you need to get the absolute highest density,...

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That is exactly why. It's a small head (in retrospect, too small!) and I believe it is going to require a lot of weight. The wings are very swept back, which pushes the CG back. My original plan was for the head to be snug against the leading edge of the wing. That provides very little leverage for moving the CG. Indeed, I fear that I need to slide the head assembly forward to get a greater CG shift from the amount of lead that fits in the head.

I'm kind of paralyzed right now because I can't know how far to move the head forward until I test fly the glider, and I can't test fly it until the head is firmly attached. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and attach the head---maybe a bit more forward than planned---then hope I can fill it with enough lead to balance the glider right.

Geof

Extending the neck is the best way to get a bigger CG shift using the least amount of weight.

Another option: Since you have the head nicely shaped already, use the wooden head as the master to create a mold. Then fill the mold with molten lead, or with lead sinkers surrounded by your choice of binder (casting resin, epoxy, plaster).

Try #9 lead shot it's the smallest available diameter(.080") I use it all the time in Micro models, I'm sure it would give you what you need without have to melt it

Do they sell it in walmart? In the gun section?

Some Walmarts do not sell gun stuff anymore. That being said I don't really remember Walmart selling a lot of reloading stuff.

You would probably be best off going to a "real" gun store.
The smallest is 12 shot but that's tiny! If Micro says to use 9 he's the guy that would know. Like the other fellow said using shot you could easily pour it into the nose cone, then "glue it" up.

I figured out the chicken & egg problem of choosing the placement and weight of the head:

I realized that I don't need to use the *actual* head during testing. I can attach weight to the front of the wing using any convenient temporary means, and add/subtract weight until I get a good glide. Then I can mark the CG. Then I'll remove the weight, and fill the head with some lead and test its positioning and lead amount until I achieve the previously marked CG. This can be done without flying or permanently attaching the head. Then I can permanently glue the head in position, already knowing that there is a suitable amount of lead to yield perfect flight.

I don't know why I didn't realize this sooner!

Given this (and my discovery of a stainless steel doggie bowl in the garage that could be used for melting lead if necessary), I think we can wrap up this thread...problem solved! Thanks to all.

Geof

make sure the doggie no longer eats from said stainless steel bowl. Be real sad to have a very sick doggie.

-Aaron

geof:
one more post for using #9 shot.
They average .05g each.. the sampling I did in lots of 100 they were .0565g each.
the last I purchased came from ....Where Else???? McMaster-Carr. about 2 years ago I got a 25lb bag. thinking this wouldn't be that much it's lead afterall.... I filled a gallon pouring container and my little shot despenser ( flip top bill bottle with a cardboard inside lib holder) Still haven't put a very large dent in the "stock" These little buggers pack really tight and STAY put with just a little CA and epoxy as a cap.
Here a pic of some with 3 standard "Copperhead" BB's for scale

We also used a coffe can and a pair of vise grips over a propane torch to melt the lead sinkers for Pinewood Derby cars....

Yeap that's what my Granddad & I used to make fishing sinkers. a 2lb coffee can on a propane burner, poured into the two piece sinker molds. We must have poured 2 25lb ingots a day, back when he was taking out fishing parties during the summer. Great times!

Man does that bring back memoies
Anyone could buy and play with lead, mercury, iodine crystals, and just about any chemical you wanted from the corner Drug Store, I still have a bottle of Nitric Acid with a Rexall Drug store lable on it! Funny... I don't recall many folks droppin like flys from all the "exposures".. No one closed a school if someone dropped a thermometer, Shoot it was more likely we'ed have been playing with the little balls Still have a little less then a pound I use in making mercury switches

Originally posted by Micromeister
snip....No one closed a school if someone dropped a thermometer, Shoot it was more likely we'ed have been playing with the little balls Still have a little less then a pound I use in making mercury switches

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This explains some things.

Mix small shot with larger shot and you'll get a denser mixture. Or, you could just melt the small shot because there's so much surface area to heat up and melt. Do it outside with something you won't use to cook with. I know someone who made ~10 lb weights cast in a frying pan on their stove. It ended up eating the frying pan all the way through. They're fine.