I use Bondo Spot Putty exclusively on spirals and areas that need filling.It dries quickly and sands very easily, although it does smell badly, but the VOCs are what makes it apply easily and dry fast ,so it`s a trade off......I like it...smells like rockets !!
On deeper spirals ,you may need to apply it a second time ,as it does shrink at bit as the carriers evaporate leaving the Talc behind (yup ,basically just talcum powder in a carrier)
I can easily do a 4" body tube 48" long in 15 minutes and ready for sanding in a half hour ,but of course ,temperature and how thick you apply it will determine this.
I take the tube ,squeeze out a bit (1/2" long) and use a stainless steel square tip spatula (craft store ,woodworking supply,Mickaels) and work it along the spiral in one motion.It`s like drywall taping and mudding ,DON`T over work it ,do it once and move on.
I then take the spatula and scrape off the excess Putty from both sides of the spiral /seam ,careful not to scrape or touch the area that was filled ,and wipe the spatula blade off on a paper towel (I take a large piece of paper towel and tape it down near the area where I`m filling ,so it only takes one hand to do the job of cleaning the blade)
The more excess putty you remove now ,the less sanding you do later.
After you`re done ,examine the spirals ,you`ll be able to tell or even feel if the spirals are filled ,if not ,repeat the process ***** NO need to sand first ,just re-apply over the same areas ****
When it`s all good and you are pleased ,sand down with 180 grit (nice and easy) then follow up with 220 and dust off (a TACK CLOTH works best for this after getting the major dust off with a Shop Vac or similar) and prime with a good high solids primer and paint.
Works on all types of body tube material ,and thinned down with lacquer thinner and painted on wood ,works great and does not warp like water based stuff.
There you go....easy...peasy
Cheers
Paul T
I'm in agreement with all of Paul's notes but let me add one more:
I find that pre-spraying the body tube with a lightish coat of filler primer really helps me with this kind of spiral-filling job. I mask off where the glue joints will be for the fins, then spray the tube with Rustoleum auto filler primer (gray stuff). After that dries you will know EXACTLY where on the tube you need to fill (spirals and any other imperfections will stand out). Also, as you are sanding your spot putty, if you over-sand the adjacent areas the gray primer will wear away and you will see it before you cut too deep.
Invest in some good sanding sponges-- 220 and 320 will give you a nice shiny smooth tube. They conform to the curve well, so don't leave flat spots or streaks.
When I want a first class result, this has worked well for me.
I've also heard folks first spray a white or black lacquer (again, fin areas masked off...). These dry hard and let you bear down more on the sandpaper as it takes more effort to cut through a lacquer that has hardened up. Another benefit is that a lacquer is non-porous and thus water won't easily soak through. If you are damp-sanding a primer coat later, water will go right through the primer and soften the paper tube, but would be stopped by a layer of lacquer. Haven't tried this but plan to sometime soon.
Marc
I'm in agreement with all of Paul's notes but let me add one more:
I find that pre-spraying the body tube with a lightish coat of filler primer really helps me with this kind of spiral-filling job. I mask off where the glue joints will be for the fins, then spray the tube with Rustoleum auto filler primer (gray stuff). After that dries you will know EXACTLY where on the tube you need to fill (spirals and any other imperfections will stand out). Also, as you are sanding your spot putty, if you over-sand the adjacent areas the gray primer will wear away and you will see it before you cut too deep.
Invest in some good sanding sponges-- 220 and 320 will give you a nice shiny smooth tube. They conform to the curve well, so don't leave flat spots or streaks.
When I want a first class result, this has worked well for me.
I've also heard folks first spray a white or black lacquer (again, fin areas masked off...). These dry hard and let you bear down more on the sandpaper as it takes more effort to cut through a lacquer that has hardened up. Another benefit is that a lacquer is non-porous and thus water won't easily soak through. If you are damp-sanding a primer coat later, water will go right through the primer and soften the paper tube, but would be stopped by a layer of lacquer. Haven't tried this but plan to sometime soon.
Marc
Paul
You can use it right from the tube without mixing or cutting it with anything. It's already the consistency?? Doesn't Wally World sell it?? I like to try it sometime and see how it works.
This thread reminded me that my tube of glazing putty had separated and I needed a new one.
Unfortunately, WallyWhirled was out.
Unfortunately, WallyWhirled was out.
I went to Walmart and they were out so I just bought some the local auto part store. It was $5
Old school metal tube, Luke. For $3.48 at WM, it's easier to just pick up a new one when they're in stock.
Good suggestion about squeezing a bunch out and remixing...which is what I did at the time.
I've had the same issues with Squadron green and white putty.
Well I had my fill of it today. Yeah it doesn't fill in gaps, which I found out and I didn't know to thin it on warm days like today. I basically wanted to blend my fillets, but after reading this thread it looks like this won't do it. I applied it to the fillets area with my finger..of course I used a glove. I applied just enough to cover the areas I wanted and used the same technique you would use thinning out epoxy fillets with rubbing alcohol. It dries up really fast. It looks like someone put peanut butter on my fillets so I have a lot of sanding to do tomorrow. Once I get all the fillets sanded down I'll spray it with primer and be done. I'm not going to concern myself with perfection on this project.
Check out the pictures on my G-FORCE build.
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?47958-G-FORCE-Build/page6
Hey JR
I always value your advice and opinions. I agree with you on the (TMTG), but fins on my rocket is plastic AT G-Froce, so that's why I wanted to try the (BGSP) I posted my current pictures on my build thread and after they dried over night with the (BGSP) I sanded them down with 200 and then followed with 400. Shot a couple more coats of primer..looks decent. Things like this just take time and sometimes you have to repeat the process a few times to get the desired results.
Everything you stated is spot on.
Has anyone used Aeropoxy Light Filler for filling in spirals or spot putty? How does it compare to Bondo and Elmer's Wood Filler?
Chris
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