Good Epoxy brands

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glenbo

Rocket Scientist/Fry Cook
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I've been using Bob Smith Industries 30 min. slow cure epoxy on building my Talon 3 fiberglass. Its great for making clean exterior fillets because of its thick consistancy but when you want the epoxy to run..... like getting it down the fin slots to adhere the fin to the motor tube, well it doesnt. Any good epoxies out there with a runnier consistancy for making those fillets in those hard to reach places. I will be building my Talon 4 soon and want to make sure those fins are secure.
 
internal stuff i tend to use aeropoxy from giantleap , however i have started to use proline hi temp black for everything...

aeropoxy.JPG
 
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The Pro Line 4100 stuff is thinner than the West Systems 105 in my experience. I have both. Each have their own place. I'm planning on using the Pro Line on my internal fillets.
Hope this helps.
Adrian
 
I'm using Great Planes 30 min. but if you want a thinner epoxy, why not add a little denatured alcohol? I do that when I'm injecting epoxy with milled fiberglass, just be aware, it does shorten the cure time a bit....
 
any good epoxy is better than the bob smith hobby stuff.. bob smith is full of fillers to make it a 1:1 ratio.
it's not hard to find better... once stepping up to an epoxy "system" it's very thin to start with and can be modified how ever you like.(including cure time)
 
I like West Systems and Aeropoxy, with my preference being Aeropoxy. Both have a long cure time, which allows you to get everything perfect before it starts to set. I use colloidal silica to thicken the epoxy for fillets. I find it easier to start with a thin epoxy so i can add the filler to get a desired consistency. Really thick to shape exterior fillets and thinner for the internals so it can run like you said.
 
I had used the DevCon 5 and 30 minute epoxies for years and they work pretty good. Never had any failures due to the epoxy not being "good" enough. In all honesty, the material you are bonding will usually fail before the epoxy bond, assuming your application technique was sufficient.

That being said, I broke down and purchased the West Epoxy "System" a few months back when I started a LOC Bruiser build. It was my biggest rocket so far, and I wanted something good. It was my first use of fiberglass on a body tube. The body of the rocket uses two 30 inch tubes. The second tube turned out much better, so, practice makes perfect.

From reading other posts on the forum, I was turned on to the West Systems epoxy fillers. The Colloidal Silica is now my favorite for fillets - no more epoxy running everywhere!! It thickens it right up, and pretty much stays where you put it. Its nice being able to control how thick you want it by just adding more/less as needed. I've also used the West High Density filler for structural bonding. I tried the West Low Density filler with less success, I read it was "sandable" so I tried using it like Bondo for spot filling. MISTAKE..... But.... you live and you learn.

What really makes the West epoxy nice is that you can get the pumps that give the proper volume with each press. The resin/hardner has a 5 to 1 ratio. Therefore, the calibrated pumps dispense the correct amount with one press of each pump. I haven't seen pumps like that for other epoxy brands, it sealed the deal for me.
 
I've used the epoxies from both West and US Composites...

I've been quite happy with the resins and fillers from US Composites, almost exactly the same quality as West, at quite a bit lower cost.


All the best, James
 
I like West Systems and Aeropoxy, with my preference being Aeropoxy. Both have a long cure time, which allows you to get everything perfect before it starts to set. I use colloidal silica to thicken the epoxy for fillets. I find it easier to start with a thin epoxy so i can add the filler to get a desired consistency. Really thick to shape exterior fillets and thinner for the internals so it can run like you said.

+1. Aeropoxy and colloidal silica are both great. I use them for just about everything. Heat up the part to speed up the cure if you need to. Post-cure to raise the temperature capability up to 200F+.

Also, get a little $20 0.1g scale, and some bathroom Dixie cups, and it's easy to mix up small batches of 10 grams resin, 2.7 grams hardener for small jobs.
 
I'll put in my plug for my preference System III. Easy 2:1 mix ratio by volume.
I am not an expert but as far as I can tell every bit as good as West but without the 3:1 mix hassle.
 
Fibreglast System 2000 is my preferred brand, but I've also used lots of West and AeroPoxy.

I prefer AeroPoxy and Fibreglast for their ability to better handle elevated temperatures.

Adrian is spot on about investing in a small scale for mixing small batches. If your family eats yogurt, save the containers -- great for mixing in, rather than buying cups! :)

-Kevin
 
I have been using MAS marine epoxy with great results. I don't see any reason to change.
 
At my school, we use structural Aeropoxy (ES6209), which is 1:1 mix ratio and has the perfect consistency for anything not laminating (just put it in squeeze bottles and it's as easy to use as hobby epoxy with less fumes), and Aeropoxy laminating resin (2032/3660) with West 3:1 pumps on the cans.
 
Measuring System III by weight saves epoxy and cost for me. I use just what I need without of bunch of pump waste. Mixing is 1 part resin to .44 parts hardner. So I simply keep a little calculator around (tho after a while you just remember certain common quantities). 10gm -> 4.4gm, 15gm -> 6.6gm, 20gm, 8.8gms etc. I have a little penny weight scale from harbor freight that does the trick. And a 5000g scale for larger mixes.

YMMV

 
Another thumbs up for Aeropoxy. I use both West System and Aeropoxy but mostly Aeropoxy on internal fin-can and bulkheads. Aeropoxy is a stronger bond, and from my own bench tests Aeropoxy is less brittle then West. I do still use West and it has it's place. Not so much an issue now but in colder conditions the Aeropoxy resin and hardener is similar to molasses in consistency. Can get very thick when cold but very managable when warmer.
 
The tally is in!Thank you all for your 2 cents. I bought Aeropoxy structural Adhesive for the fins. Found Spruce Aircraft Canada so getting Aeropoxy is not a problem.I actually like using Bob Smith Epoxy
as it is easy to mix and still used it generously for the centering rings on the motor tube. I consulted Kent from GLR and his take is there is absolutely nothing wrong with Bob Smith epoxy.
For extra strength he suggested adding fiberglass fibers to the mix to reinforce the fillets. I decided on the aeropoxy because I like to detail the appearance of my rockets so I will take extra
precautions to help make make sure a fin doesn't pop upon a hard landing thus ruin the detail. One important thing I learned is to rough up the fibreglass and dynawind in the area of the bead to ensure good adhesion.My only real beef with Bob Smith epoxy was that it was very thick making it hard for it to run into those hard to get places.
 
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Just a couple small points.

Adding an alcohol to epoxy to thin it, even in small quantities, costs a lot of strength in final cured properties. Not a good idea. If you need thinner epoxy, use a thinner epoxy. Or in some cases, brief application of heat, if the epoxy is slow cure as is the case for laminating resins.

If you find your epoxy getting thick too quickly, spread it on a plate rather than leaving it in a mixing cup. Cure time is somewhat a function of thickness of the layer of epoxy. This is particularly true of systems which exotherm a fair bit - System 3, and West with fast hardener, for instance.

I would not count on pumps providing the correct ratio of epoxy to hardener. Yes, it may still set up, but the results won't be as good as they could and should be. Weigh the epoxy and hardener.

West Systems is nice epoxy for general gluing, but one should be aware that it has one of the lower glass transition temperatures. That may be a problem for some applications with rockets. It will even soften in hot sun, depending on your location. It never really becomes fully hard (at least compared to some other systems) in that an applied load will cause yielding. When the load is removed, the part will not return fully to the original position. That is fine for a glue, as it allows some stress relief, but it may not be fine for your specific application.

My preference in general laminating resins is MGS. It has some of the best mechanical properties for room temperature cure. It is even better with hot box curing.

Most laminating resin quoted properties are for product cured according to manufacturer's recommendations - which generally includes a post-cure heat cycle. Without that, the glass transition temperature will be lower and the mechanical properties will be inferior to properly cured product. In many cases, full cure will not be achieved without a post-cure heat cycle.

I have used a fair bit of (laminating resins) System 2000, System 3, West, MGS. Of these I no longer use System 3. I use System 2000 more for mold making than anything else as I typically have a few gallons of it laying around. West, I use for gluing applications where heat is not expected. MGS I use for laminating. It has rather low viscosity and nice working properties, and some of the best mechanical properties. I use West fillers at times - worth looking into if you haven't. MGS can and particularly System 2000 should be post-cured. I don't think it will help West, unfortunately.

I use MGS for small production of fuselages for radio control sailplanes, where highest strength and stiffness to weight ratios are desired. These are thin walled parts using various combinations of high modulus carbon through low modulus carbon, Kevlar, S-Glass, and E-Glass. The low viscosity of MGS helps me to achieve proper fiber to resin ratios for good properties. The mechanical properties help in the finished parts.

I can't comment on systems I have not used enough, such as high temperature systems.

Gerald
 
Z-poxy 30minute.
https://www.revmaxhobbies.com.au/sh...Y-30-MINUTE-EPOXY/Detailed-product-flyer.html
The long working time allows good penetration. You can add micro balloons, talcum powder or any of the West system additives to thicken and allows easier sanding. I have even added fine saw dust. Also, a heat gun will reduce the viscosity to allow it to run into hard to reach places. I have used a coat hanger to allow it to travel down the wire to reach the centering ring 20 inches into a body tube. load up 5 or 6 inches of glue onto the wire, position it then heat up the end with a micro torch. West system epoxy is even better but more expensive.
 
I have never used TAP plastics epoxy. I will add a vote for us composites.
 
I got some of the general purpose stuff years ago..seemed to always stay rubbery..and I was very careful about the ratios. I still have it..never found a use for it yet.

Tony
 
Next time just use a heat gun to get it to run where you need it. Far cheaper than the specialist epoxies. Not a minor concern for some of us.
 
Ive been using proline 4100 for composites layup. It does tend to 'kick' easily (but I do work in a hot workshop). So far ive enjoyed using it. It has a nice pot life, perfect for what I use it for, it seems pretty strong and is mostly odorless. However, the 5-1 mixing ratio is a bit hard to work with. The only other laminating epoxy ive used is the US composites and that works great also.

Alex
 
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