To be clear, "T2+," "T5," etc. are Balsa Machining Service (BMS) sizes. FlisKits sells 6mm motor tubing as "BT-2.5." If you look for something called T2+ on the FlisKits site, you'll be looking for a looooonnnnnggggg time. ASP calls the same tubing "T-MM."Buy the Super Value Set for the motors and the launcher with adapter. The RTF rockets in that set are pretty much worthless (we don't call them Little Plastic Bricks for no reason). Fliskits has some really nice mmx kits and parts (while ordering, I'd order some extra T2+, which is minimum diameter tube for MMX motors and some centering rings - especially T2+ to T5). I haven't tried the ASP or Leading Edge kits. But if you get some motor tube and T2+ to T5 centering rings, you can also turn the Estes Quark and 220 Swift into respectable MMX models. Easiest to add a bit of string (or Kevlar thread) for a shock cord and just make them nose blow recovery - you can secure the thread in the tip of the nose cone with a couple drops of epoxy.
I built a bunch of regular rockets, I would like to get started in mmx, what's a good kit , I was thinking quest super value kit , u get 6 rockets , launch, ect ? Or any other advice ? Kits ect ??
I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??The Super Value Set is a great place to start. Then check out these sources for kits:
https://www.fliskits.com/products/rocketkits/micromaxx/mmx_kits.htm
https://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/category.cfm?Category=175 (micro scale kits) and https://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=669&Category=177
https://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/model_rocket.php (the 9 kits that all begin with "Micro")
Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??
Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.
Thanks, I'm on it.c:I picked up one of these and it fits my PortaPad:
https://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/product_other.php?pid=10
Only thing is the lugs on the plastic bricks have to be drilled out a little. No problem with the kit lugs though.
Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.
By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.
Thanks again! Now off to order a few of these bad-boys......
Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)Don't "PUSH" it in at all!
If you must use the toothpick method it's only ment to HOLD the igniter in by the weight of the MODEL holding it in. DO NOT PUSH IT into the nozzle or you MAY end up with a motor that looks like this and a MODEL IN MANY MANY pieces. The Toothpick method has been the only way I've seen to cause a CATO with MMX motors to date. IF you must use the method just lightly set the model onto the pick against the blast deflector just tight enought to hold the igniter in place NOTHING else
Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)
Cool technique! I like the idea of pre-setting them up prior to launch time.The Old Wadding ball and tape method is the way I've been pre-launch prepping both MMX-I and MMX-II motors for over a decade.
I'm using my own Bare Nichrome 30ga. .0100" Nichrome but also use the same method with Q2's both pyrogen coated and bare. it's just a little easier not having to work around the little glass bead. I generally hold the Q2 by the tip and spread the leads a bit between the bridge wire and glass bead. Just enough to allow a tiny piece of FP wadding to be placed between the leads.
It's a lot easier at home, on a hard, stable table rather then fighting wind and attention while trying to watch the next flight going off while readying motors.
Some haven't been able to get the hang of it..which is fine... In Testing: Stuffing a tiny piece of wadding in against the nichrome igniter and taping it with 1/8" masking tape as hard as I possibly could has not to date created any motor problem at all, Generally packing the wadding ball just enough to seat the ignitor firmly is all that's needed than add a little piece of tape. I've left motors pre-ignitored for months, which allows motors to be ready to pop into the model and on the pad in a jiffy while being able to support the model by the igniter leads in the micro clips alone.
Both methods appear to work fine...whichever helps you most to simplify the pre-launch preperation so try both methods...can't hurt...just do push the toothpick
Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?To Genzod and Scoop 55,
You can use your standard 1/8" diameter rod and launcher with this MicroMaxx lug adapter.
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/12/micromaxx-launch-rod-standoff-tip.html
Brian Coyle, our local NAR section president, showed me this when I first showed interest in flying some MicroMaxx rockets.
It's very simple to make from a standard 1/8" lug, empty 18mm casing, tape and a .049" diameter MMX rod.
You could probably pick up a usable (cheaper) rod at some hobby stores.
Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?
Yeah, guess I'm not really visualizing the size of these. I'll stick with the supplied lugs.....You certainly could but it'd look awful funny...in some cases the lugs would be almost as large as the model body LOL!!!!
You really don't want to get into MMX. It is totally addicting. If you want the rest of your life to continue to be normal, stay away before it's too late. There is a growing cult starting to grow with Micromeister and Jim Flis as our leaders. HELP!
Larry in Illinois
Added 3 more from fiskits:DONE! Just ordered the following:
ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines
Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod
Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!
Gunna check out fliskits next......
Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. The toothpick is meant to act more as a support for the igniter when the rocket is turned upright and placed on the launch rod. It does double-duty as a stand-off at that point, too. Don't try to use it as an actual plug, though, like you would with, say, an Estes igniter plug. It needs to have a little bit of friction with the nozzle's exit hole to stay put and keep the igniter in place, but not much. Bad things can happen later on if you use too much force when you insert the toothpick. Use just enough pressure to keep it in place. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.
By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.
Thanks for the info, Mark. New around here and afraid to ask, I just looked up what CATO means, and yes, I think that happened to me once during a launch. I was with the rocket club a few months back, so obviously using their launch pads, which had a rail setup with 5 rods in a row. I had Mean Machine on it with an E9. It was her first launch. My son pressed the button and that sucker just sat there and blew a flame out for a few seconds.....didn't move. I initially thougth somehow the retaining hook got caught on something preventing it from taking off. Then some guy said "hey kids, go check out what that engine did to the launch pad". Melted a nickel-size hole in the aluminum blast shield and burned the ignitor wires underneath. I didn't even want to go and retrieve the rocket, and claim it was mine! Back at my truck, and old timer came over, looked at the engine, and said I probably had a defective engine with a damaged nozzle. Probably my fault though, being too careless with the plug. I learned my lesson, and am still reminded of it every time we set up for launches....:blush:Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.
Yep, I plan on building a similar one. Just got my teenie launch rod in the mail yesterday.Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...
Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...
Enter your email address to join: