What did you do rocket wise today?

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And here's the 2.4 GHz transmitter/receiver and Yagi, if anyone else is interested. Runs on 12v DC. Receiver has component out (video, L, R audio) plus ch3/4. Pair can be used on one of four channels.

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Had my day ruined by BSI 15 minute Epoxy.
It took all of 4 minute to turn into this. I thought it was going to burst into flames!!!
I've never had it do this before, so maybe I got a bad batch. I'll call them tomorrow and ask if they would like me to send it back to them to figure out what is up with it. I'll have to cease most building for the rest of this month as I was going to use it for a few different things, and I'm nearly out of all my other epoxies and my BSI 20 minute stuff.
I just barely got the tail cone/booster ring pressed together when it got super hot and set up, so I am not sure I even got the saturaion I needed internally on that assembly, so now I'll have to wait til' I can afford more 20 minute stuff, then drill a bunch of super fine holes in the assembly and soak it to insure that I got all the rings and glass uniform. The only good thing is I did get it concentric to within .5 millimeters, which was my expected margin. I had to eyeball it and set it aside, as I had no time to set it in the jig when I saw the plastic cup melting.:mad:
I took off my gloves just to get the camera and get this pic', before grabbing it up in a paper bag and tossing it out the door lest it burst into flames.
I expected atleast 10 minutes of working time, but I looked at the clock when I started, and it was 4 minutes when I saw the cup sagging to one side. I tried to lift it up to pour some of it, and that's when the glob formed and it got too hot to hold.
It may have smelled wrong or extra pungent, but I would not know, as I had my respirator on and three fans going.
I looked at the temperature a couple of minutes later, just to collect pertinent data, and it was 65 degrees in here, the doors and windows open.

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From Bob Smith's FAQ...

The minute designations on our epoxies are the amount of time one has before the components start to cure to a taffy-like consistency when mixed on a flat surface (such a s the flexible plastic top to a coffee can). Higher temperatures will reduce the working time. As epoxies cure, heat is created. If a larger amount of epoxy (1 oz. or more) is mixed in a cup, a mini-reactor is created which concentrates the heat of curing which causes the epoxy components to kick-off faster which creates more heat which further speeds the curing, creating more heat, so on and so on. On warm days, you can end up with a smoking blob. Lay down parallel, equal lengths of each component before mixing them together to get consistent results. The 20 minute designation of our FINISH-CURE™ takes into account its being mixed in larger quantities in a cup.
 
Had my day ruined by BSI 15 minute Epoxy.
It took all of 4 minute to turn into this. I thought it was going to burst into flames!!!

I think a firm call to BSI tomorrow ought to get you some new product overnighted, if there's justice in the world.
 
I expected atleast 10 minutes of working time, but I looked at the clock when I started, and it was 4 minutes when I saw the cup sagging to one side.

Epoxy generated heat as it cures. Heat speeds up the cure process. Then it snowballs on you. Best to mix and then get it spread out quickly if you need working time. Yes, a large blob like that can get hot quick. Just had it happen with my us composites laminating epoxy. I had extra in the up that I squeeze out of a tube back in and it melted the solo cup and was leaking out.

Also watch CA and q-tips / cotton balls. You can get a flame soaking enough thin CA into a cotton ball.
 
Ok, I've got a crazy idea!

We fly rockets with video cameras to capture on-board footage.... But we only ever get to see this footage after the rocket is down - often many hours after the event.

So, here's where crazy comes in....

I've just ordered a bunch of stuff from Banggood, Hobby King and Ebay :

2 x 3S 1000mAh batteries
1 x 600mw FPV transmitter & receiver
1 x 4.5" LCD display
1 x 170 degree FPV camera

and a bunch of bits to hook it all together - plugs, voltage regulators etc.

It's going to take a few weeks for it all to arrive and then a few weeks more to get it all ready to launch...

But when it's done, I should have clear signal for several 1000' and be able to watch the launch from the pilots seat!

I'll start a build thread when it all arrives :)

Comments? Suggestions?

Krusty


Working on a system myself. I am actively cooling my VTX with a 5v micro fan and two aluminum Raspberry pi heatsinks as there will be no air circulation in the AV bay and at 600mw they create some heat. 5 turn RHCP helical on my RX and a 3 lobe RCHP cloverleaf for the VTX. Soocoo f23 cameras which were removed from their cases. I'm using both cams in the AV bay, live feed and record from one with a downward view through a periscope shroud and the other with a horizontal view.

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From Bob Smith's FAQ...

The minute designations on our epoxies are the amount of time one has before the components start to cure to a taffy-like consistency when mixed on a flat surface (such a s the flexible plastic top to a coffee can). Higher temperatures will reduce the working time. As epoxies cure, heat is created. If a larger amount of epoxy (1 oz. or more) is mixed in a cup, a mini-reactor is created which concentrates the heat of curing which causes the epoxy components to kick-off faster which creates more heat which further speeds the curing, creating more heat, so on and so on. On warm days, you can end up with a smoking blob. Lay down parallel, equal lengths of each component before mixing them together to get consistent results. The 20 minute designation of our FINISH-CURE™ takes into account its being mixed in larger quantities in a cup.

Yeah, I guess I had forgotten about that since I've been working with the 20 minute exclusively for so long.
4 minutes though seems pretty quick, and much quicker than I remember from last time I used it.

Thanks for posting this. It all makes sense now.:)
 
Today, I am start my next build thread and a website. Stay tuned.
Getting late. Might have to tune back in tomorrow.
Anywhoo.. I sanded and primed some more on me XTF-18 Transporter. Set it on the deck only to have the wind blow it over and SMASH the end of one of the side half tubes that I had REPAIRED yesterday! And it damaged the back end of the tube on the other side.
Don't that just piss me off when that crap happens. At this point, Im just going to cut it back and do the same to the other side. And try and fixy the other end.. :facepalm:
And people wonder why may favorite pigment color is primer gray.

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Epoxy generated heat as it cures. Heat speeds up the cure process. Then it snowballs on you. Best to mix and then get it spread out quickly if you need working time. Yes, a large blob like that can get hot quick. Just had it happen with my us composites laminating epoxy. I had extra in the up that I squeeze out of a tube back in and it melted the solo cup and was leaking out.

Also watch CA and q-tips / cotton balls. You can get a flame soaking enough thin CA into a cotton ball.


Yeah, I wear my respirator usually when I need to mix CA and cotton due to that, and sometimes I'll put the used q-tips down on something like my Dremel accessories case and it shows.
 
Also, while digging thru me rocket stuff I found an envelope with some Semroc decals. Low and behold me Centurion decal has been found. The clone (semroc parts) has been on the shelf for years. ha ha ha. Guess now I can finish it.
YAwhooo, more filling and sanding, YAwhooooo!!!!
I checked out pics and found this one with a black vertical stripe. Don't think Ill go that route. Keep it simple. Black on top,white on bottom.
Also see some with light blue pigment.
What was the original colors?

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Scored an Estes Flying Colors ARF rocket from Wal-Mart for only $4.00

Other than a totally smashed up box and missing chute, no issues. All the other parts were accounted for and undamaged. I have plenty of chutes on hand for a rocket like that.:wink:

I may grab a BT-60 booster for this at some point.
 
Went to P.O. and there was a box for me!
The box had lots of BTs.....:)
One more box to go. I kinda figured the last box would be, well, um... :yawn:
Just the way it is sometimes.
 
I'd been looking at this Rocket for Years, on its damnable stick.
Is this a turd of a design, or genius? (It's certainly no Blue Bird Zero, or 1906 Sizzler. But what is?)
When inspiration struck I started sanding; looking forward to final SGW coat and color.
That's when the unthinkable happened: In my well-nigh Enthusiastic Delirium I managed to torque-off a Fin.
In for a Penny, in for a Pound, I resolved to finish the Staid Bird.
Here's the resultant Fin-Repair, re-glued with TiteBond, patched with Squadron Green Putty, and squirted relentlessly with Rustoleum Filler Primer.
The self-doubt surrounding my awkward, initial Fin-Gluing Techniques has me spinning.
Did I allow this to happen?
Could I have?
...but, but,

...my techniques are better now:

I rough the Glassine Surface to receive the bond of Balsa and Paper!

Updates to follow.

I'm gonna see this through.

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Scored an Estes Flying Colors ARF rocket from Wal-Mart for only $4.00

Other than a totally smashed up box and missing chute, no issues. All the other parts were accounted for and undamaged. I have plenty of chutes on hand for a rocket like that.:wink:

I may grab a BT-60 booster for this at some point.
Good deal.
I don't believe the WW up here (NH) does rockets anymore.
They had them at xmass time a few years back.
 
We slotted the BT on our upscale Dragonfly. I was finally able to dry fit everything and get a look at what the finished project will look like. The slots need a little sanding, so I wasn't able to fully seat the body tube yet.

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it just adds character to your rocket :), just call it a field level modification.
Rex
 
Placed an order with Fibreglast for vacuum bagging materials.

Finished installing new dishwasher (rocketry related because that had to be finished before rocketry building could resume).
 
Got a package from Wildman so I spent some time fondling my punisher.

(Sorry, phrasing)
 
Ran out of nitrile gloves, so I had to get caught up on some of my wood glue projects, like my tube cutting jig.

It is coming along nicer than I imagined it, and I'll post it in the "Jigs" thread tomorrow.
I'll be able to make precision cuts now on any tube from BT-5 up to 4".:clap:
The only drawback is it is almost as long as my work bench, so when it is not in use I'll have to find a place to store it.-
 
Prepared for the Tripoli Central California Annual Dairy Aire three day launch this weekend.

I read Benno's description of using a drogue/Chute Release combo on his Crayon Rocket and figured the technique would work for my big Goblin 5.5 which also flies on a Chute Release. The drogue attaches on a short shockcord to the nose cone and I had to swap in a two loop OneBadHawk 20' shockcord with a third loop tied in at about the 5/8 point so that the 48" main won't get fouled by the nose cone/drogue combination.

At Dairy Aire I'm planning to put up one more test flight on an Aerotech I366 to verify the drogue Chute Release set up before going for the L2 cert on a Cesaroni J316.

Studied real hard today for the L2 Cert exam, too. Now I have NFPA 1127, FAA FAR 101, and all sorts of other rocket trivia leaking out of my brain.

PS. Hey, Top. I think I've found a solution to boxing up the tubes. More to follow after Dairy Aire.
 
I graduated from Sacramento City College. This doesn't seem rocketry related, but my parents gave me an Arrow Antenna 440-7BP antenna as a grad present! And I am also taking my HAM radio license test tomorrow evening so I'll be able to use it.
 
I graduated from Sacramento City College. This doesn't seem rocketry related, but my parents gave me an Arrow Antenna 440-7BP antenna as a grad present! And I am also taking my HAM radio license test tomorrow evening so I'll be able to use it.
Congrats! Well done,young sir.
 
Had some bad runs in my 2X SGW Base Coat on the Ruby Red Metal Flake Fatboy's Fins. I let them cure for a few days, sanded, and hit the necessary spots with 2X White Primer. Immediately sprayed fins with 2X Gloss Spa Blue, let dry for 10 minutes, and peeled the masking away. Is this the Coolest Color Combo in Rocket History? For a Beer Can-Like Sport Model, these colors just POP! KA-POWIE!

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Finished building my Tube Cutting Jig that I started yesterday. I love it!!!
I needed it to make things for my SA-5, so I had to design and assemble it. It works great!:)
No more pain in the butt cutting tubes, or worrying about getting them perfect.
It works from BT-5 and likely up to 4", but the largest I have on hand is 3", which it handles readily.
I need it for the booster ring and the bt-60 bands for the boosters.
All my tube cutting needs will now be handled by this.:D
It can hold a variety of blades, but all I had handy is my X-acto, and that works fine, but I'll grab a handful of boxcutters next tine I go by the hardware store so I am not wasting #11s.

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Nice job. I like the "Caution" taped area.


Someday maybe a smaller version......[video=youtube;cPo3A_1Nw-g]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPo3A_1Nw-g[/video]

I think it could be done.
How would you like to do that for 8-14 hrs a day?
 
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Finished building my Tube Cutting Jig that I started yesterday. I love it!!!
I needed it to make things for my SA-5, so I had to design and assemble it. It works great!:)
No more pain in the butt cutting tubes, or worrying about getting them perfect.
It works from BT-5 and likely up to 4", but the largest I have on hand is 3", which it handles readily.
I need it for the booster ring and the bt-60 bands for the boosters.
All my tube cutting needs will now be handled by this.:D
It can hold a variety of blades, but all I had handy is my X-acto, and that works fine, but I'll grab a handful of boxcutters next tine I go by the hardware store so I am not wasting #11s.

Nice! More complex than my setup.
 
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