XTREME WILDMAN 4 BUILD BY CJ "CHERRY BOMB"

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Place 1 nut on eyebolt, followed by 1 washer, insert through Bp's add 1 washer and nut, tighten.

You can place a drop of CA if desired to prevent loosening.

Take threaded rod, 1 washer and 1 nut placed on end leaving approximately 1/4- 1/2 in. of threads. Insert through Bp's and add 1 washer and 1nut. tighten and add a drop of Ca if desired.

Repeat for other rod.

If you mount one rod so that it's off set more than the other, it will make it easier to place the bulkplate on when prepping rocket. The longer rod will 'find' one of the holes first, making it easier to line up the second.
Rather than trying to get both rods throught the BP's at the same time.

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I took a break from finish the writing of these instructions to fly a little........

.............should have stuck to the writing. First a loaned out my tracker, it was lost in a carbon rocket that did not deploy, hence no signal, hence to more tracker.

Then after revamping my higher altitude fights a little lower due to no tracker.....

got back from hunting for lost rocket, had mine ready to fly sans tracker which I was going to attach to apogee shock cord, but since no tracker just went to pad and flew.
Immediately after launch remembered that I had not attached the quicklink from payload to fincan, 'cause I was waiting to put the tracker in! DOH!

Well the pictures tell the story. No one had a shovel, so I turned a previous misfortune [blown 1706 case] into a shovel to aid in fincan retrieval.

Not finished yet with chaos I flew the Blackhawk 29 on a 24-40 reload F-24 W, in my brand new MOTOR won in the Gouda cheese duration at NSL, along with a box of rocks. [Yes a bona fide box of Bong rocks].
Anyhow at apogee the chute jams, so out the rear flys the adapter and my new , never used before motor.

Ya 'll know what happens next...lawndart #2 in same day! I didn't bother to photo that one.

BUT, but there was no damage to either rocket after digging them out. So all in all, after a hard day of earning my nick name,[again] it was a good rocket flying day.
I will be back with more build info a little later today!

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This is what I used for the thickened fillets.

One full pump of resin and hardener plus the filler will make enough for 3 fillets with a little leftover for goofs.

I used 6 times the filler shown to get the peanut butter consistency needed.

You will need a dowel, pvc pipe section, or if like me, borrow the neighbors broom and cut an inch off the handle to smooth out the fillets. Don't cut off too much or they might not let you borrow it again for your next build!

Any diameter between 3/4 and 1 inch works fine. Can't be too picky when it ain't yours . LOL

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It was about this point into the build I began to visualize the name and graphics for the rocket. So I thought i would incorporate it here also. I went from thoughts, to simple drawing, then several more drawings. Starting with a simple tracing of the fin, so I had the exact size. Many scribbling later, this is what I came up with

Finally invaluable help from Don Ball [dlb Wolfstar]who eventually came up with the perfect letter fonts [flaming letters] sized and cut the final vinyl and where to put the bombs. I take credit for the yellow 'eyes' idea though!.

Just teaser shot.. the full reveal later.

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Just hammered a "For Sale" sign into my neighbors perfectly manicured front lawn. (Mr. "Smith" will understand)

Pallet o' broom handles on its way...:roll:
 
This is the consistency you should have. Make sure it's mixed thoroughly, no lumps, or there will be voids to fill when cured. Like peanut butter, easy to smooth out, yet thick enough to stay put.

Start by adding small amounts to the fillet, much easier to keep adding than having too much and making a mess.
As you add fillet material, use the dowel as a guide, building up the amount until there is enough to trowel off.

Let the tape be your guide the finished fillet will end right at the edge of the tape. You don't want it smeared all over the tape.
 
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Dipping the dowel piece in alcohol will keep the fillet material from sticking to it, and aid in smoothing out the fillet.

The trick is not to try and do it all at once. Start by leveling it out from the middle towards each end. Then the last final pull [ with a CLEAN and wetted dowel] should be started at one end and continue in a smooth even stroke with the same angle and amount of pressure, no stopping till finished.
Keep the dowel clean and wet with alcohol.
 
A good aerodynamic fillet should have a radius of 4-6 % of the root length of the fin.

If you have followed along so far you should be in the ballpark. I verified this on a NASA research site after much searching.

At least that's what they said last night at the Holiday Inn , when I called the front desk!

Remove the tape before cured completely.
 
I used my tried and true method of foaming the NC for a tracker.

A section of allthread is cut to fit. Washer and nuts on one end to secure in the poured 2-part foam. Soda straw or tubing is secured to allthread with tape to hold it near the outer cone, for antenna.

NC is placed in payload section for pour.

hardware placed in NC and foam for approx 1/2 is poured. held in place by BP till cured.

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2nd pour of foam is done.

Sanded to proper depth and tracker placed in position.

Traced and cut foam to fit. Slide antenna into tube, press tracker into cut out, install BP and check for fit.

I have found no noticeable decline in reception or distance doing it this way.

I have actually landed in water [Bong] and had the NC with tracker in it bobbing like a cork, but still sending signal!
 
That worked out pretty cool! I like how you set the antenna up with the straw.
 
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Final step in the MM assembly is to epoxy fillet the top CR on the motor mount tube holding the recovery harness.

tape mixing cup on a dowel at slight angle as shown. This will allow you to hold fincan at same angle, slide a cupful of epoxy down the tube, while still keeping it level.

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Then just twist the dowel half a turn to pour the contents around the top centering ring, making your final fillet. The reason we put the top CR down from the tube 1/4 to 1/2 now becomes clear! Keep epoxy from spilling into MM tube. Stand the fincan up level and the fillet will evenly distribute around the ring. I added some chopped carbon to mine.

Some prefer to drill a small hole above the CR and inject the epoxy...be careful it is easy to shoot it right in the MM . Then you still must fill the hole.

If you do goof, after cure, tape sandpaper to a broom handle and sand out your mistake.

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2nd pour of foam is done.

Sanded to proper depth and tracker placed in position.

Traced and cut foam to fit. Slide antenna into tube, press tracker into cut out, install BP and check for fit.

I have found no noticeable decline in reception or distance doing it this way.

I have actually landed in water [Bong] and had the NC with tracker in it bobbing like a cork, but still sending signal!

Jim nicely done Suggestion though, Use a U-bolt for the attachment point, Drill a hole in the center of the U-bolts underside plate to accommodate the all-thread, That will make it a bit more secure and distribute the stress over the BP better.
 
Jim nicely done Suggestion though, Use a U-bolt for the attachment point, Drill a hole in the center of the U-bolts underside plate to accommodate the all-thread, That will make it a bit more secure and distribute the stress over the BP better.

I'd use an eyenut instead of an eyebolt. Just screw the eyenut onto the all-thread. Use a lockwasher between the eyenut and bulkhead and for extra security a nut onto of the eyenut to keep it from unscrewing. I use this setup for my E-bay connection points and it works great.
 
The norm for most is to glue tubes to one side of sled, then slide over tie rods.


I trimmed the sled so the eye bolt nuts would fit in ends and once in place, the sled had no where to go.

Once the e-bay bp's are on, it cannot move.

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U-bolt and e-nut are great suggestions.

However at the time I did this I was limited to what came with the kit as far as eye-bolts, due to this is actually the instructions and I was on deadline.

There is also the need sometimes to offset the set up, where an eyenut could still be used, but a u-bolt might not fit.

Tim wanted as near to stock as possible for most who would be building.
Then there are always the "US" guys, who don't really care about the warranty and are going to modify it to "OUR" liking....LOL ...Then go beat the heck out of it , to see what it will handle!!

The edited and full manual with all details are on the Wildman site under the Extreme kit. [With Gary's rocket,nice job on that, photo]
https://www.wildmanrocketry.com/default.asp?groupid=1&groupid1=612121482&prodid=343130436582447

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Last item to install, the rail buttons. Standard 1010 are plenty. They are rated for up to 70 lbs.

Easy way to center if you don't have your own method....

Tape edge of paper on center of a fin.

Wrap over to next fin center, mark

Fold in half

Mark on your fold mark or center point.

Mark center on rear CR

Mark center between front of fins

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Use square, level or straightedge, to extend line up to top centering ring on MM tube.

1/8 bit and drill hole in both CR's to mount buttons. Shining a light through the tube will make finding your top CR very easy, one of the great things about glass, it's transparency, and being able to see what's going on inside during construction. A plus that paper, blue tube and phenolic don't have!

Screw in buttons, should be plenty tight. If not, back out screw add drop of CA or epoxy in hole and re-install

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All that remains is to attach shock cords.

Longer one from fincan harness to alt. bay.

Shorter from alt. bay to nose cone


Finished weight of rocket loaded for pad, no motor is 16lbs. If built accordingly, yours weight should be the same or darn close.

Recommended chutes are Sky angle 60 in. or Topflite 84.
Remember to size the chute for total weight of rocket and largest EMPTY motor case you intend to fly.

Attach chute by tying over hand knot in shock cord to make loop, 4-6 ft from NC. Use provided quick link to connect chute to loop.

Recommended deployment charges 2-3 grams for apogee with shorter motors. 1.5 grams with full length sizes [40in plus]

Main deployment 1.5 to 2.0
 
First the naked pics... The builder and the namesake.

Only fitting the first real flight be on a sparky.

it flew to 8500 something on the Gorilla L-695 BL [SKID]

weighed in at 23.5 lbs for flight.



pics courtesy of Justin F.

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A lot of care and love was put into Cherry B:hot:mb

I'm glad to have helped, and the end result is Grand, one pruty bird.

crissen this bird with pride, of coarse under the Full Moon
Muhahahahaha:dark:
 
After the vinyl provided by dlb Wolfstar aka: Don Ball.

Ready for LDRS..come find me lets Drag Race!



................................SEMPER FLY!................................................


I may just have to take you up on that Drag Race Jimmy :headbang::dark:
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Cool!. Just got on this thread, hope you have a better flight than I did! LOL Just don't put a M1400 in it. :rolleyes:
 
I'll answer for him:

Thank you... :) I had not seen the end result the of the Cherry Bomb L3 attempt, and that is a sad ending for sure... :(

I need a 4" rocket with a 3" hole and the EW is a contender for sure. Winter build maybe...



Justin
 
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