Xarconian Crusier

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regent

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Anyone have good luck putting a D motor mount in these, the C mount just seems under powered for how heavy it is, 525 ft with the C.

Think this will be my next build, after I get a few more out of the primer/paint que.
 
That's how I did mine. Just had to grind out a spot for the engine hook. I used no additional nose weight. Flights so far have been straight and true.
 
That's how I did mine. Just had to grind out a spot for the engine hook. I used no additional nose weight. Flights so far have been straight and true.

Most Estes designs have a high enough margin of stability that adding nose weight isn’t always needed - sometimes you would need some, like a 24mm conversion to the 1/200 RTF Saturn V, but typically if you’re going to use 24mm BP Estes motors or 24mm SU Aerotech motors no additional weight is necessary (I add some as a matter of course just for my own peace of mind but YMMV).
 
Anyone have good luck putting a D motor mount in these, the C mount just seems under powered for how heavy it is, 525 ft with the C.

Think this will be my next build, after I get a few more out of the primer/paint que.

I ask myself that question every time I build an 18mm MMT bird, and the trade-off goes as follows:
24mm D12 motor is MUCH (2x) heavier than 18mm C, or 18mm Quest D. Details here: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/estes-screaming-eagle-build.158704/#post-1989625

So if you convert to 24mm MMT, you also need to add ~+25-30g (+1 oz) of extra weight to the nose cone. One (1) Estes clay square is about 7g, so figure stuffing 3-4 of those clay squares into the nose cone. If you want to try flying longer and heavier E-motors, you will need yet more ballast!
That means that you will make the model permanently at least +1 oz heavier, and it will never fly on Estes C6-3's again.

Basically, 24mm MMT "upgrade" is a one-way street. You will never fly on 18mm Estes motors again if you go with 24mm MMT. The upgraded model will be to heavy for them.
On the other hand, you have a selection of 18mm D-motors from Quest (single use) and Aerotech (reloadable) that allow you to fly 18mm D's with a lighter/stock configuration.

For me, keeping it light and versatile with 18mm MMT's is more attractive.

YMMV.
 
For some heavier 18mm rockets the Aerotech/Quest QJet motors are a viable option - my MPC/Round2/Sky Enterprise and Star Traveler fly better on QJet D12s than Estes C6s.
 
Here is what I did - just an idea :)
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/estes-xarconian-cruiser-2-stage-build.144797/
UWcz5CW.jpg
 
So far pretty good, besides one of the balsa sheets having a bend in it.

Waiting on the D motor mount to get here.
 

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I ask myself that question every time I build an 18mm MMT bird, and the trade-off goes as follows:
24mm D12 motor is MUCH (2x) heavier than 18mm C, or 18mm Quest D. Details here: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/estes-screaming-eagle-build.158704/#post-1989625

So if you convert to 24mm MMT, you also need to add ~+25-30g (+1 oz) of extra weight to the nose cone. One (1) Estes clay square is about 7g, so figure stuffing 3-4 of those clay squares into the nose cone. If you want to try flying longer and heavier E-motors, you will need yet more ballast!
That means that you will make the model permanently at least +1 oz heavier, and it will never fly on Estes C6-3's again.

Basically, 24mm MMT "upgrade" is a one-way street. You will never fly on 18mm Estes motors again if you go with 24mm MMT. The upgraded model will be to heavy for them.
On the other hand, you have a selection of 18mm D-motors from Quest (single use) and Aerotech (reloadable) that allow you to fly 18mm D's with a lighter/stock configuration.

For me, keeping it light and versatile with 18mm MMT's is more attractive.

YMMV.
You will get more performance out of the re-loadable motors. Good point.
 
Progress... Sticking with the D motor mount. if it gets here.
 

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Wing test fit...
 

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Couple of quick shots, Pods are complete and glued up. The D motor mount took a little bit of extra work, but it all measured out so the the motor tube sits flush with the rear detail cone. Also the inside of the cone has a conical taper, I built up layers of different sized card stock to match the taper.

Not shown, I placed one more strip of card stock over the uneven ridges to smooth the taper out a bit.
 

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