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Wrong Paint...???

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Steward

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I bought a can of "Rustoleum Metalic" today...

It turns out pretty... but has the smoothness of course sandpaper... I can sand it out, but man that's alot of trouble... and you lose the sparkle...

I thought about just filling it with clear coat... which might work... but will certainly add too much weight...

Oh well...

Watch out guys...!!! Live and learn...
 

Aron Sanford

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I used the Testors brand of metalic & it came out not bad but you do have to use a clear coat over it for high gloss! Most of the metalic paints are ruff & not gloss. O, you can get a gloss if you use alot of paint but then it runs! Can't win!
Aron
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by Steward


I bought a can of "Rustoleum Metalic" today...

It turns out pretty... but has the smoothness of course sandpaper... I can sand it out, but man that's alot of trouble... and you lose the sparkle...

I thought about just filling it with clear coat... which might work... but will certainly add too much weight...

Oh well...

Watch out guys...!!! Live and learn...
Do NOT cover it with clear coat. It even says this on the instructions. I know because I ruined a few finishes before I read them. You'll end up with the base color; grey if steel or aluminum, tan if gold, brown if copper. Use Future. It will coat and protect and not reduce the sheen.

It smooths better if you use a very smooth base. I use satin finish for this.

Coarse sandpaper? You did something wrong. Mine is "dusty" at worst, much finer than 600 grit. And most of that wipes smooth with a towel. On a good sub-surface I can now get the chrome to reflect a sharp image.

You need to put a fair amount on. Two light coats at a time. I do this three times. Either do it between 15 and 60 minutes after the prior coat, or else wait at least 48 hours.

And, use a handle or stand so you don't have to handle it after painting. Even when the paint is dry, it's soft. Even as late as the day after painting, you can leave fingerprints in the paint (raised ones, not just smudges) if you try to pick it up directly.

This stuff takes some learning and practice, but it's worth it. When I finally finished the Kappa 9 M with the stainless steel and aluminum sections obviously different, I had a paint job I was finally proud of. But I had to let the aluminum coats dry for a week before I could mask it for the chrome coat, without leaving marks from the tape.
 

Steward

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:cool:

I don't know what I could have done different or wrong (except buying a "metalic" paint)... That's really not even an effect I would use... often.

It's a PHEONIX and I was going for a naval pattern I found online... It should be a light grey anyway....
Light grey with a yellow nosecone... and I believe there's yellow on the fins somehow(not a clear picture)...

I guess I should go ahead and polish it out with sandpaper or steel wool, and go ahead and clear coat it... That way it WOULD turn out looking grey as opposed to metalic silver...

I still don't know why I bought silver anyway... My thinking was it was a closer shade of a light grey than anything else on the shelves... I know...Duh...

I've not had a good (current) building session this time around... the scary part is that I've a bunch more to build this summer...LOL

Sorry for the ranting...
Thanks everyone...


 

limd21

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Even though I'm a die-hard fan of water-based acrylic paint, if a great metallic finish is the goal (like what you'd see on a car), the only products that I've ever found to be truly satisfactory are automotive paints. I'll use the stuff, but only reluctantly, and always with proper safety equipment.

Has anyone out there ever found a good (i.e. less toxic, easier to handle) alternative that can be clear coated yet still retain a true metallic sparkle? I'd love to know if there's a "better" way.
 

Aron Sanford

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Yes! you can use a clear coat as long as it's the same type of paint!!!! Testors will work with testors paint! I use it & it works! Of course other brands may not work with different brands. keep the same brand paint & you will be ok!
Aron
 

limd21

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Originally posted by Aron Sanford
Yes! you can use a clear coat as long as it's the same type of paint!!!! Testors will work with testors paint!
Sorry, I wasn't being clear on this. Having used the Testor's metallics, they're not at all in the same league of metallic "clarity" as one would get on from automotive paint. I refer to Testor's (and other model paints that I've seen so far) as "frosty" metallics - giving sort of a soft metallic sheen - not too much different than the "dull" side of aluminum foil. Contrast that to a good metallic paint on a car, and it's a world apart. There, individual sparkles from the metallic fine (or other suspended optical enhancing particles) can be discerned.

On top of that, when one clear-coats Testors-type metallics, the clear starts to obscure the metallic nature of the base coat. This doesn't happen in automotive metallics - the clear coat actually enhances the sparkle and depth.

About the only products that I've seen give this sort of result are at the commercial/industrial end of the spectrum. Perhaps some fingernail polishes might fall into this category, too, but the color selection isn't the greatest for models, the quantities are just too small, and they're really not much safer than many automotive paints (being nitrocellulose dope based products.)
 

Steward

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:cool: Well...I tried...

It's still metalic silver(Rustoleum)... Sanding and (Krylon) clearcoat didn't dull it much...

I've actually run out of time... she flies tomorrow AM

Still it's not bad... It just ain't right...LOL

Thanks for all the help and support guys...

Estes "SHADOW" up next... but that's another thread...
 
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