Wiring an RRC3 and a Featherweight to a single rotary switch

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Hi, wondering if anyone could share a picture/drawing of how I might wire the switches from an RRC3 and a Featherweight into a rotary switch like this (https://shop.gag.com/rotary-switch.html). I'm not very good with wiring diagrams (yet), so a simple drawing showing the leads from the boards to the posts on the rotary would be super helpful.

I'm not looking for redundancy here, more just wanting to experiment and gain experience with the basics of operating both units on the same flight.

Thanks much.
 
Hi, wondering if anyone could share a picture/drawing of how I might wire the switches from an RRC3 and a Featherweight into a rotary switch like this (https://shop.gag.com/rotary-switch.html). I'm not very good with wiring diagrams (yet), so a simple drawing showing the leads from the boards to the posts on the rotary would be super helpful.

I'm not looking for redundancy here, more just wanting to experiment and gain experience with the basics of operating both units on the same flight.

Thanks much.
There is no compelling reason to use a single switch to power both units. Use two of those types of switches, its done all the time:
https://www.missileworks.com/store/#!/RRC3-Dual-98mm-Modular-Sled-System/p/33422533/category=9045100Capture.JPG
 
Check these shurter rotary switches carefully as they have a stated lifetime of 300 uses and I have had them fail with less than 10, a voltage switch is normally set once and never touched again
 
Hi, wondering if anyone could share a picture/drawing of how I might wire the switches from an RRC3 and a Featherweight into a rotary switch like this (https://shop.gag.com/rotary-switch.html). I'm not very good with wiring diagrams (yet), so a simple drawing showing the leads from the boards to the posts on the rotary would be super helpful.

I'm not looking for redundancy here, more just wanting to experiment and gain experience with the basics of operating both units on the same flight.

Thanks much.
Is your Featherweight unit a Raven or a GPS Tracker?
 
Decided to use the factory switch on the Featherweight and installed a latching on/off switch for the RRC3. GoPro is housed on the opposite side of the bay.
 

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Decided to use the factory switch on the Featherweight and installed a latching on/off switch for the RRC3. GoPro is housed on the opposite side of the bay.
Be careful with switch selection. The switch is going to be exposed to high Gs and it may come unlatched if it's not designed to handle those conditions. I don't recall seeing anyone use a switch like you have in the picture in an AV bay before. It looks like a cheap switch from Amazon. Not saying it hasn't been done but it's definitely not a common one.
 
There are DPDT switches like https://shop.gag.com/parts/push-switch.html that can be used to switch two completely different circuits, with the only lack of redundancy inside the switch itself. YMMV if you think this is redundant enough for any particular application. I tested this switch fairly extensively to see if it was robust against shock and it seemed OK, but it's not easy to mount or solder to.

Of course, with switches everyone has an opinion. I've used cheap Rat Shack push-on/push-off switches and they've worked fine, but I am not a fan of the Shurter at all.
 
I have never used a Shurter switch. They just seem like a failure waiting to happen to me. I have only used screw switches but I feel like I read over 1000 posts about switches before making that choice.
 
Decided to use the factory switch on the Featherweight and installed a latching on/off switch for the RRC3. GoPro is housed on the opposite side of the bay.
This subject has been discussed in detail in other threads, so I won’t labor the point here, as it’s a little off topic. However, the location of your GPS tracker antenna is not ideal. You have an RRC3 altimeter, GoPro and (presumably) a 9V battery in very close proximity to the tracker’s antenna. This will mess with the antenna’s impedance (detuning it) and radiation pattern. There’s also the possibility of the RF interfering with the RRC3.
 
Check these shurter rotary switches carefully as they have a stated lifetime of 300 uses and I have had them fail with less than 10, a voltage switch is normally set once and never touched again
I stopped using them when one of them fell apart as I was turning it. That was actually the impetus for creating the WiFi Switch...
 
This subject has been discussed in detail in other threads, so I won’t labor the point here, as it’s a little off topic. However, the location of your GPS tracker antenna is not ideal. You have an RRC3 altimeter, GoPro and (presumably) a 9V battery in very close proximity to the tracker’s antenna. This will mess with the antenna’s impedance (detuning it) and radiation pattern. There’s also the possibility of the RF interfering with the RRC3.

There is so much margin on the LoRa link, that there is very little anyone can do to screw up the link, short of fully enclosing the antenna in carbon fiber or aluminum. In the case of a rocket that returned packets from over 140,000 feet line of sight range, it was just duck-taped to a 1/4" threaded rod in the nosecone. The transmit power is only 50 mW, and I haven't heard of any issues from customers about interference with other electronics. I know that there are no detectable effects on the Raven altimeter when the LoRa antenna is directly adjacent to it. The GPS antenna has less margin, but it looks like it's positioned pretty ideally in this setup.
 
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