Wildman Rocketry Blackhawk 38 build thread

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Do they make nuts for coarse thread wood screws? I don't know that I've ever seen one. Surely the threads don't match.
 
Well, I'm hoping to get back to building this thing again.
I had a wacky summer, and was working on ARS Rockets, and didn't have the time or money to continue work on this.

I'm getting rid of the kevlar for the E-bay, and I'll be using threaded rods now.

As far as the nose cone, I'm not quite sure what's the best way to get the shock cord attached, but I have available room for a tracker to fit in the nose cone.

What did you guys do with yours?

Oh, and lastly, is there a E-bay kit for the BH38 that is for sale somewhere? Would a Madcow fiberglass E-bay work with a WM kit? The reason I'm asking is that I will need a sled, and a couple of other items for the E-bay, and figured it may be a better idea to buy a E-bay kit.


Thanks,
 
It seems like I just don't have enough time to keep building this thing. :-(

However, now that I am finishing up things with ARS for 2018, I now have much more time.

A quick update:
I got a LOC 38/29 adapter, sanded it down, shortened it, and glue it into the NC with JB Weld. I will soon reinforce it even more. This will be used to hold the tracker.
I have just ordered a 38mm sled and fly away rocket guides from Addictive Aerospace. Once I get those in the mail, I should be nearly complete.

I'm trying to get it finished in time to launch at the TMO 11-24-2018 launch, we'll see.
Unfortunately, the weather probably won't cooperate, so I may not get it finished, but my original plan was to put a nice glossy clear coat on the rocket, and paint the edges of the fins, (Where the bevel is) and the tip of the nose cone. I couldn't decide whether I should paint those areas with red or green. What do you guys think?

Oh, and I have picked the CTI H163WT for the first flight. I should get about 2,000 ft or so..


Pictures coming soon of the progress of the build.


Thanks,
 
I have 3 questions for some people here with a Blackhawk 38:
@timbucktoo @captbk @markg @blackjack2564


3 questions:


1. Where did you put vent holes and shear pins on yours? Do you or someone you know have some that I could buy?
2. I have ordered a 38mm sled mount from Addictive Aerospace for this rocket, have any of you done this on yours? If so, may I see a picture?
3. I was wondering what to do when you launch a rocket with a motor that has 14 second delay, you do a sim on OpenRocket and it says "optimum delay, 21 seconds, deployment at high speed" do you just have to keep the delay at 14 seconds, or can you plug it? BTW, this would be a Aero-Tech DMS motor.


Thank you everyone for your help!! :)


Thanks,
 
I pretty much build it per the instructions. First photo is NC shear pin location. I have bought all my shear pins from Amazon but they seem to be out of stock. Here are some on ebay & they will last you a lifetime! https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-56-x-3-8...00/292764820737?hash=item442a24a501:rk:1:pf:0
Next photo is the vent hole/switch hole on AV Bay. I used a single vent hole & feed the switch wire thru same hole. Never a problem.
I built my own sled. I think I bought the sled you mention way back when I first built this rocket but I could not get it to fit with 9 volt battery.
When your motor delay is shorter than what the simulation calls for, you do NOT add the BP charge to your AT motor. I usually replace it with dog barf & tape.

OK so I have to ask - what motor are you using where the sim says you need a 21 second delay?

IMG_4817.JPG

IMG_4816.JPG
 
Vent holes on airframe are in middle of fincan & payload [between top & bottom]
Holes for venting av-bay are through airframe about 1.25 inches from edge. 2 of them the 3rd hole is the 1/2 hole for switch wire on break between fincan/payload joint.Like timb2 shows above.
Only 1 shearpin for NC/payload about an inch down from edge of payload.

No on premade sled...you have seen mine in earlier post, make the myself, with left over scraps of G-10 or wood.

I do NOT use ANY motor eject delays on minimum diameter rockets...they are all TOO short. If motor comes with BP [ala CTI remove cap & dump out] For AT don't put any BP [or remove it]in charge well, at this point your delay no longer matters. Trust electronics to figure correct apogee.

When only 1 altimeter in a rocket such as this...I use 2 ejection match per charge for redundancy.
 
Vent holes on airframe are in middle of fincan & payload [between top & bottom]
Holes for venting av-bay are through airframe about 1.25 inches from edge. 2 of them the 3rd hole is the 1/2 hole for switch wire on break between fincan/payload joint.Like timb2 shows above.
Only 1 shearpin for NC/payload about an inch down from edge of payload.

No on premade sled...you have seen mine in earlier post, make the myself, with left over scraps of G-10 or wood.

I do NOT use ANY motor eject delays on minimum diameter rockets...they are all TOO short. If motor comes with BP [ala CTI remove cap & dump out] For AT don't put any BP [or remove it]in charge well, at this point your delay no longer matters. Trust electronics to figure correct apogee.

When only 1 altimeter in a rocket such as this...I use 2 ejection match per charge for redundancy.

I'm quoting this whole message as this advice is spot on. Exactly what I've done as well (thanks Jim!)

I'll add that I wouldn't rush into flying this on an I500. It disappears on that motor and you only find it with a tracker. Fly it on some G & small Hs and make sure your deployment and tracker are solid before you put it up on the I500.

cheers - mark
 
I built mine pretty much like CJ's and Tims. And I'll repeat what mark said, fly it with a tracker or dont go with the I500 for your first flight. These skinny rockets disappear quickly. Without a tracker onboard your chances of finding it are very small. I would hesitate even using a H500 for shakedown flight but thats me.
 
I built mine pretty much like CJ's and Tims. And I'll repeat what mark said, fly it with a tracker or dont go with the I500 for your first flight. These skinny rockets disappear quickly. Without a tracker onboard your chances of finding it are very small. I would hesitate even using a H500 for shakedown flight but thats me.
Yes, I'll be using a tracker.
First Flight: CTI H163WT - 2K - Deployment test flight
Second flight: Aero-Tech I500T - 9.5K - Endurance test flight
Third flight: Aero-Tech J510W - 15K - The real deal



Thanks,
 
How do you guys mount the shock cord to DMS motors, and a CTI 29mm 3 grain load?
I know with the 38/1320 hardware and EX motors, you can put a eyebolt on top, because it's plugged, but can you do that with CTI and AT motors that have a delay?


Thank you so much!! :)


Thanks,
 
I don't use DMS motors so can't say. I used the method CJ proposed in his build thread/instructions.
Yeah, I was going to, but after I realized that A. it wouldn't be very strong, and B. Inserting the shock cord mount would limit certain motor choices.

So, I never went that route. Instead, I want to anchor it to the motor it self.


Thanks,
 
There is an Aeropack minimum diameter retainer that screws into the ejection well (with an adapter for cti motors I believe). Unsure if it's available in 29mm.

I saw one project recently where a builder used a longer case (ie, 4g for a 3g motor) and made his own adapter that fit inside the spacer at the front of the closure.
 
There is an Aeropack minimum diameter retainer that screws into the ejection well (with an adapter for cti motors I believe). Unsure if it's available in 29mm.

I saw one project recently where a builder used a longer case (ie, 4g for a 3g motor) and made his own adapter that fit inside the spacer at the front of the closure.

Correct, 38mm is smallest.
https://aeropack.net/min_dia_retainers.asp
 
There is an Aeropack minimum diameter retainer that screws into the ejection well (with an adapter for cti motors I believe). Unsure if it's available in 29mm.

I saw one project recently where a builder used a longer case (ie, 4g for a 3g motor) and made his own adapter that fit inside the spacer at the front of the closure.
Thanks!! I bought one from AMW/ProX.

Look forward to getting it in the mail.



Thanks,
 
OK, shear pins and E-matches have arrived.

Still waiting on fly away rocket guides, retainer, and the SMART sled.
They should all hopefully be coming on Saturday, but we shall see.

That will give me 1 week to complete this thing.

On Thanksgiving, one of my older brothers will help me with doing some ground tests for this rocket.

And then, (Weather permitting) I'll launch it on Saturday the 24th at TMO!


So, I assume that the AeroPack M38E retainer won't screw into a CTI 29mm load, correct?

If that's the case, then I will have to get an H100W for the first flight instead of the CTI H163WT as first planned.


Flight plans:

1st flight: H163WT or H100W
2nd flight: AT H550ST
3rd flight: I motor
4th flight: ?? Maybe J510W?

I'm only planning on flying it twice on the 24th, so just a couple of H motors, nothing over 5,500'



Thanks,
 
Andrew - how are you planning to secure the retainer?
Also the AP M38E will not screw into any CTI reload. You will need the part number MC38 and I also don't think it just screws into the CTI forward closure without any modification. Not 100% sure but maybe crazyjim will chime in since he's done just about everything, at least once!
 
My solution is clear....use the supplied coupler for recovery attach or Machine screw through BP well. Friction fit motor with 1 inch band of real aluminum duct tape around airframe and motor closure. Fail proof. Yet to see any motor go fast enough to rip it off.....yet anyway...lol

Young one has chosen other methods, there are many ways to get job done...I'm sure he will figure it out...albeit at higher cost and more effort.:)
 
I have chosen not to launch this on a CTI load.

First flight will be AT H100W.
Second flight will be AT H550ST.

Third flight won't happen until 2019, maybe in the spring, but we shall see. :)



Thanks,
 
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