Wildman Piercer 98 Build by the Designer

[H. Craig Miller]

Received my Wildman Piercer 98 free design kit from Tim earlier this week, and thought I'd do a build thread. The design utilizes a 54mm motor mount for versatility, realizing that with larger motors there may be a need to add nose weight for stability. The design may also be adapted for either dual deployment (head-end and below AV bay parachutes) or as single deployment (either above or below the AV bay).

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The first step, as always, is to thoroughly wash all of the parts to remove any leftover release or other contaminants. As I tend to favor a more natural looking nose cone (I like to see the fiber in the glass), my first step is to lightly sand, acetone clean, and coat the nose cone with clear fiberglass resin, using an internal vice (see paint can mixer) to hold the nosecone base; if you don't want something coated in resin, cover it with parchment paper. The excess resin is removed with the edge of a razor blade as the nose cone slowly spins in a clamped drill.

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All nice and shiny... just waiting for the resin to cure before moving on to the AV bay..

As a side note, well, maybe a very important caution, as the excess fiberglass is removed (scraped off) from top to bottom, if the rotation is too fast the resin will spin off, 360 degrees, instead of just dripping down off the edge of the razor blade. Unless you want to feverishly clean everything in the kitchen and mop the entire floor with 91 percent alcohol before your spouse comes home, cover it with something, including your clothing. Oh, and watch where you are walking as you clean up after yourself. Don't ask how I know.

 

[H. Craig Miller]

Now that the nose cone has cured, time for the AV bay general construction. First , fit the AC coupler into the nose cone (a very light fit) and draw a line at the base of the nose cone around the coupler. Then, slide the switch band over the coupler and down to the nose cone, and draw a line around the coupler. Remove the coupler from the nose cone and switch band, and wrap several layers of tape around the coupler, on the air frame side. Carefully sand the inside of the switch band and where the switch band goes, then clean both components.
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Using clear fiberglass resin, liberally coat the inside of the switch band and the entire outside of the coupler from the tape to the top of the nose cone side of the coupler. Then, slide the switch band over the coupler, down to the tape; coating the entire coupler prevents air from getting between the switch band and coupler, for a consistently transluscent appearance for those who fly naked. Clean off the excess resin and carefully clean the outside of the coupler and switch band with 91 percent alcohol; do not put alcohol on the joint between the parts. After the resin thickens, remove the tape and clean the switch band edges with a razor blade. Then, gently test-fit the coupler into the nose cone, moving the switch band against the nose cone base, if needed. Do a final cleaning and set aside to fully cure.

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On to the motor tube and fin pockets.

 

[H. Craig Miller]

Reserved...

 

[H. Craig Miller]

Reserved...

 

[H. Craig Miller]

Reserved...

 

[H. Craig Miller]

Reserved...