Why Is Everything Wrong With Bathroom Construction.

[RocketFeller]

They do make fiberglass sinks, most laundry/utility sinks are made of FRP. The problem, as mentioned earlier, is abrasion resistance. After a few years they generally look like crap, but people usually don't care what the interior of a utility sink looks like.

 

[Bat-mite]

There was once a carpenter who advertised that he could build a bathroom that doesn't stink. A wealthy woman hired him, and he built her one.

The first time she used it, she noticed a terrible stench. So she took the carpenter to court.

The judge asked the carpenter, "What do you have to say for yourself?"

He replied, "Your honor, it's not my bathroom that stinks...."

The case was dismissed. :lol:

 

[TopRamen]

There was once a carpenter who advertised that he could build a bathroom that doesn't stink. A wealthy woman hired him, and he built her one.

The first time she used it, she noticed a terrible stench. So she took the carpenter to court.

The judge asked the carpenter, "What do you have to say for yourself?"

He replied, "Your honor, it's not my bathroom that stinks...."

The case was dismissed. :lol:

I visited this thread for a sec' last night before callin' it a day and got a well needed laugh out of that, so thanks!


I really want that custom sink, but in the meanwhile I really want a decent functioning bathroom, so I have to come back to reality and reinstall the old one. The fixture on it was in rough shape, so yesterday I swung by the hardware store where I have a charge account and atleast got a nicer one and new braided stainless supply lines that were 6" longer to account for my re-positioning and supporting of the piping underneath. I replaced the toilet supply line in the same way when I had reassembled it only to find the rigid pipe supply line no longer fit after the subfloor rebuild. The copper pipes underneath were never supported with hangars so I used wire until the job is complete, then I'll go back and make actual bracket supports that mount to the joist to support the pipes.
I also grabbed more construction adhesives, mold-kiling primer, tub sealants/silicone, and big gap filling expanding foam.
Most importantly, I grabbed two more sets of eye protection, as I found my current ones not up to the task of blocking little bits of air-float debris, resulting in me having to wear my full face shield over them. When wearing the needed breathing protection as well, this was a very awkward set up. Even worse, I would set them down, then forget where, and since the house is kinda cluttered right now, this kept slowing work down. the new ones are the "Chemical Splash/Impact Goggle" by 3M, and they really fit nicely. I even wore them for awhile after knocking it off for the night before remembering I did not need them.:cool2:
Similar to when I'm building rockets, my waking thought this morning were of the series of steps and the methods I will use to complete todays required work. It should be a good day accomplishment wise, as it was getting all the old garbage out of the way that is the real pain in the butt.

 

[SaturnV]

I'm on my bathroom tiles plastered on two walls around the shower. Then I started to deal with rockets and tiles stay lined up in the hallway But I will finish the bathroom when there is a windy week and can not start rockets

 

[TopRamen]

So that's why my house is so cold in the Winter, it's insulated with sagging pink panther, wasp nests and coffee cup styrofoam, with a shell of 1/4" rotted partical board and "Ventilated" vinyl siding:y::lol::





Thanks goodness I opted to remove all of the drywall, or all my other work would have been for nothing when Ice appeared on the wall above the shower again. When the bathroom is complete, I'll go tear away the outside and get that patched up too, at least to the point that it will be ready for new siding in the Spring.

Thankfully, once again I had tons of free blue foam tiles and some purchased spray foam, which I was careful to apply in layers over the course of the day to let it set up, so as to not have uncured foam stinking up the walls and causing a chemical hazard. I was careful to mist the FG stuff that I removed with my pump sprayer, as well as wear my respirator/goggle/facesheild and long sleeves taped at the wrist to my nitrile gloves throughout the operation, and aside from my nose being sore from the respirator, encountered no irratation whatsoever. The pump sprayer at the mist setting was useful a second and third time, as I used it to see/visualize my positive airflow I created using four fans from the front of the house to the back, where the bathroom is. Then before beginning the foaming, I learned in my research that you can gently mist each successive layer as you apply it to speed up the setting. This will be noted for ruse on other projects in the future. The previous brand of foam I had worked with does not mention this step on the can.
I had to take my blue foam sections out after having them stacked in place all nicely, when I remembered that the foam should be able to flow through them, and this resulted in an extra hour worth of work, as it took me 5 minutes to realize that cutting that many holes would take forever, 5 minutes to find the spade bit, and another 50 to remove it, drill flow holes and stuff it back into place.
My technique with the new to me brand of foam was lacking, and I wish I had practiced first, because I wasted too much, and ran out of foam just shy of completion. That said, it is still 1000 times better than what was there, and I'm using plywood and wood screws to secure the wall sections, so I can revisit it easily in the Spring too. This will protect the bathroom plenty for now.



I dropped a whole bag of free blue foam tiles down the plumbing side of the shower too, then loosely sealed the top with just a little expanding foam, in case the pipes need serviced, the drywall on the hallway side can simply be removed and the blue pieces will fall out freely.
The inner walls drywall that is on the hallway side are getting tiled with blue foam while I'm at it for sound dampening and just because I feel like it. I don't want my plywood seeing the drywall. I'll get rid of that drywall next year, or sooner if I get more nice free plywood.
By the end of next year I hope to have completed a complete home renovation, eliminating any trace of FG insulation and drywall.

 

[TopRamen]

The window did not have ANY insulation whatsoever, so it got a careful foaming with the regular Great Stuff. They say to only use "Window and Door" Great stuff, but by being very gentle on the trigger I was able to do the window safely and I just went and rechecked that it opens and shuts correctly without binding before coming back to mention it. Likewise I dry fit the door to its frame and did it too with the regular Great Stuff.
dimensions still set where I set them. The floor beneath the frame is complete save for fiberglass, paint, self adhesive vinyl tile and then the re installation of the wooded threshold, which I may replace. I have already trimmed away the lower most 2" of the door, and foamed the inside of the lowest portion of that, as it is one of those cheapo hollow doors consisting of two panels of veneer with a cardboard craptastic whatever you call it sandwiched in between. I'm not done with the door yet, and have a really cool mod planned which will explain why I removed the 2" of the bottom, but more on that later.

 

[SaturnV]

What has made this house? It has always surprised me how tornado managed to knock down a house. My house is brick, and the base and between floors of concrete. Toronado most refer only covers

 

[TopRamen]

Awe crumbs!!!
I had planned to get some walls worked on today, but in beginning my research into "Vapor Barrier", I can plainly see that I don't have the right plastic sheeting, and that I need to do a detailed analysis of exactly what I will require to make the walls efficient.
May have to improvise or make do with available materials....
I thought I'de just use some 3mil plastic dropcloth, and leave the rest of the bathrooms pink insulation alone with the remainder of it's pre existing plastic sheet, as that is in good shape, but it seems there is so much science to it. I'm spent financially, but if I determine it absolutely prudent to do it right, I'll first ask my neighbor up the road if he can spare a few minutes of advice, as he is a general contractor. We're friendly and all, and infact he recently gave me the free wood for my new porch, but I hate to impose on folks, and this is his busiest time of year. Last resort, I can charge a little bit more stuff at the hardware store, but tell my old boss what dire straights I'm in and see if he would be okay with me not paying my account off in full this coming month, and carrying a balance til' the next months budget.

Guess I'll leave the walls open today and work on the sink and the small corner of the floor where a shelving system will go while I look into the vapor barrier thing. I can at least seal up the parts above the shower, as there is about 12" of foam there now, and in three separately applied layers, so there will be ZERO permeability for moisture, which is my understanding of vapor barrier so far.

Plastic will go before wood there anyhow, and my 3mil stuff should suffice given the density of foam. Heck, the wood is getting glassed and painted before any tiles or more wood go on, so I think we'll be ok to work on that section.

 

[H_Rocket]

I don't believe vapor barrier is supposed to be impermeable. It restricts the flow of moisture to acceptable levels and still allows air to move. Without that airflow, some moisture would get in and provide a ideal growth environment for mold. Be careful as you seem to be creating an environment that may actually be too airtight. From what I have heard that can present a different set of problems.

Glassing the plywood?

 

[boatgeek]

... aside from my nose being sore from the respirator, encountered no irratation whatsoever.

You, sir, are a god among men if you can tear out fiberglass insulation with no irritation.

 

[TopRamen]

You, sir, are a god among men if you can tear out fiberglass insulation with no irritation.

There was not much to deal with, and before starting I researched it on youtube and learned about misting it with water to help keep particles to a minimum. I have just realized it was all mostly for nothing, as my research into vapor barriers led to research into the finer details of just what insulation is and how it works. My gears have ground to an absolute halt. I am frustrated, tired, sore, and absolutely feeling like the worlds biggest idiot for ever buying this piece of crap house.
I never give up, but I am going to have to settle for a "Good Enough" solution this time around. I've learned my lesson though.
I really screwed up when I foamed the crap out of the blue foam, as I could have just cut it to size and layered it in panels.
Lack of sleep, proper nutrition and exhaustion in conjunction with my physical limitations and knowledge of building technology have led me down the worst rabbit hole possible, and this "Choose Your Own Adventure" has a melancholy ending no matter how I wrap it.
Can't put lipstick on a Pig or something like that.
I'm just going to have to close up the walls and make the bathroom serviceable. I need the time to get the real estate attorney to find out how I was able to buy a "Camp" with my VA guaranteed loan privilege in the first place, and who is liable.
It's literally killing me to keep trying to fix it myself, and people I encounter are remarking on how much weight I look like I have lost since they last saw me, which in most cases was within a month. I know I'm hurtin', but I hate to just close up the job. Thing is, I got real life to try to get back to, and even rockets as part of that real life, and this disaster has literally consumed me. It's time to save up and get a lawyer, since the property was sold to me as a "House/Home", not a "Camp". I believe I may be due a Tax refund in that regard as well.
As Admiral Akbar would have warned me were he real, "It's a TRAP!"
Well, yes, it was, and I took the bait, hook, line and sinker.

My efforts now must be directed into solving the problem of correcting the entire living situation, to include location or building of a suitable home here for my Son, Pets and Myself. Winter is coming, and as I mentioned earlier, the roof in the loft collapsed, and to what degree I do not even know, as all I could do in my haste to finish the bathroom was put hardware cloth and a bed sheet over it to seal out the dust from the living area.
Even know that you can take a quick shower if your careful not to use too hot water, and the toilet works, my 15 year old Son won't come back from "Nana's" down the road, because he sees the shape I'm in and does not understand what's going on. I've asked him for help, but he's 15, and I guess it's not cool to live in the house with the lights on 24-7 and a pile of construction debris in the backyard, not to mention if he was here, the bathroom is right across the hallway from his room, so where I'm at now with FG and what not would not even be safe.

I'm going to have to pretend I don't care about doing it right, or even making it look good for that matter, as it is already nicer than it was, and I'm just tapped out, financially and physically. Mentally i could go on like this indefinitely, because I never admit defeat, but the victory I might attain would be Pyrrhic.

3mil drop cloth, up you go!
Foam in the places I foamed, good enough.
Remaining crap insulation, hey, I never started complaining til' I removed the drywall to see and learn about it...

Time to reassess everything.


Well, at least now I know, and knowing is half the battle.

The other half ofcourse being red lasers and blue lasers.

 

[tmacklin]

Before you engage the services of a a lawyer, make sure you do the research on him/her that you failed to do when you bought this "camp". As someone who supported myself for many years doing renovations I can assure you that every project was full of surprises and cost overruns, so don't beat yourself up over falling into the pit. If I were in your totally unenviable situation, I would pick up a couple of five gallon plastic buckets and transport my daily waste products to the beautiful Vermont forest until you can save up enough money to buy a proper toilet and wash basin. If it's good enough for the forest critters it should be good enough for man.

In the meantime, have a good laugh at this: [video=youtube;nJPju1f6p0E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJPju1f6p0E[/video]

 

[TopRamen]

Before you engage the services of a a lawyer, make sure you do the research on him/her that you failed to do when you bought this "camp". As someone who supported myself for many years doing renovations I can assure you that every project was full of surprises and cost overruns, so don't beat yourself up over falling into the pit. If I were in your totally unenviable situation, I would pick up a couple of five gallon plastic buckets and transport my daily waste products to the beautiful Vermont forest until you can save up enough money to buy a proper toilet and wash basin. If it's good enough for the forest critters it should be good enough for man.

In the meantime, have a good laugh at this: [video=youtube;nJPju1f6p0E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJPju1f6p0E[/video]

I liked that movie when I was a kid. No need for the bucket with a toilet seat on it, as the toilet is now the most durable and properly constructed part of the house. Likely better insulated than most of it too.:lol:
It's certainly the only thing that was made close to level as possible during it's fitting and final assembly.
Give me enough foam, fiberglass and carbon fiber, along with milled Kevlar, Carbon and FG to add to various epoxies, and I could build one heck of a durable composite home.



I was just coming to terms with the reality of the situation and having a moment.
The thing needs to get done, and I can make it better down the road or next go around if I get the opportunity to move.

 

[cavecentral]

Not sure what you mean about the roof collapsed. Inside parts, or outside (taking on water). Fixing roof leaks is a #1 priority (or at least getting it under some 6 mil plastic. Before going too nuts on drywall / insulation, figure out if the thing is structurally solid - load bearing parts, rafters, etc. Not sure if any is brick, or all vinyl siding.

Not a fan of vinyl siding. Often the thin vinyl, ~1/2" ply, some insulation, and the drywall is all a person needs to cut through to enter a home.

 

[TopRamen]

Not sure what you mean about the roof collapsed. Inside parts, or outside (taking on water). Fixing roof leaks is a #1 priority (or at least getting it under some 6 mil plastic. Before going too nuts on drywall / insulation, figure out if the thing is structurally solid - load bearing parts, rafters, etc. Not sure if any is brick, or all vinyl siding.

Not a fan of vinyl siding. Often the thin vinyl, ~1/2" ply, some insulation, and the drywall is all a person needs to cut through to enter a home.

The "Drywall" which had taken on moisture from the tiny basement due to the bathroom leak decided that it did not like going back to being dry, and hopped right down onto the floor of the loft, carrying the insulation on down with it. The pink instulation was apparently happier when moist too, as it had been apparently pulling structural duties from what I then observed from the outside of the building, whose roof peak had now assumed a most curious aspect and non-euclidean geometry.
You need a ladder to get into the loft, so, not wanting to due battle with fibers at the moment, I used that ladder to simply tack the sheet up over the hardware cloth that keep my Cats from getting in there.
I already know what I'm going to do about that whole section, but I have to wait til' my next benefits check to make it happen in a timely fashion, as it must when it does happen, being a roof and all. The shingles and outer roofing were new a year before I bought the place, so they don't leak, but they certainly held moisture in, and it is right above the bathroom and section of tiny basement, so it all makes sense. The insurance inspector said something of it, but I was so naive of construction methods and how a building breaths that I did not give his words enough weight, still expecting someone to fix it for me. The roof will be easy compared to the toilet issue, which I have conquered.
For some reason, I thought that all of this would be impossible, but regardless of my newness to it, I am taking it on, and whether I do a great job or a passable job no longer matters to me, it just has to go back to what my Son considers habitable, because this him living at my Moms creates this rift between us that makes it hard to communicate, which is crucial for a kid his age to have with their parent. It probably suck the most for him, even though I'm doing the work, because he's never been through something like this, and it must kinda scary for him to see me staying up all the time and losing weight and being grumpy. I tell him i understand why he's uncomfortable seeing me in this state, but that's all I can do. I can't make my pain go away, and neither can the doctor, so yeah, sorry, but I'm going to occasionally stumble or walk with a limp, or even need a cane to safely negotiate the stairs on the porch in case my left leg decides to go into tiny leg mode, but I'm still me.
I get it, so he can have his space, so long as he does not blame me for the current state of affairs.
When I bought this place, I thought I would never get custody of him, so if I was only going to see him on the weekends, a single bedroom with two lofts would suffice. He now has the bedroom.
It will be fine, but I just need to make the place livable as quick as possible now, without letting my desire for cool this and durable that get in the way.
It will be nicer than it was, and the stuff will work and not fall through the floor, and that's all that matters to a 15 yr. old.
Hopefully he's impressed that I did it myself, and learns that even when you are down and out you can get things done if you stay focused.

 

[TopRamen]

I like this guys take on spray foam, and the way he describes the layering method.
I wish I had watched all of his videos before beginning yesterdays foam job, but I did not, so we can all learn from my mistake. I like to cut away the excess foam, but he describes how that devalues the permeability depending on how it is layered.:
Enjoy! I need this technology desperately. Not the giant cans in the video, but a sub $50 dollar gun with a steel trigger.
I'm so going to foam the crap out of my house, then fiberglass it. My house is only 650 square feet. They likely have more living/building space on the ISS.

[video=youtube;6-xPIgRLuBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-xPIgRLuBE[/video]

 

[tmacklin]

I'm having somewhat of a hard time visualizing both the external and internal shape of your house. From your writings, I assume that your house is a wood platform frame with a partial basement and the balance being a crawlspace. I assume that the roof has a fairly steep gable and forms a sloped ceiling on the interior. I assume that the drywall ceiling which collapsed onto the floor of the loft was nailed directly to the rafters and that the pink fiberglass insulation was installed in between the roof rafters. I assume that the loft bears upon the walls that form the kitchen and bathroom areas and perhaps other spaces as well, and that there is no ventilated attic.

If you will post some pics or sketches of what you have, I might be able to give you some helpful advice. You can PM or email me if you prefer.

Ted

 

[TopRamen]

I'm having somewhat of a hard time visualizing both the external and internal shape of your house. From your writings, I assume that your house is a wood platform frame with a partial basement and the balance being a crawlspace. I assume that the roof has a fairly steep gable and forms a sloped ceiling on the interior. I assume that the drywall ceiling which collapsed onto the floor of the loft was nailed directly to the rafters and that the pink fiberglass insulation was installed in between the roof rafters. I assume that the loft bears upon the walls that form the kitchen and bathroom areas and perhaps other spaces as well, and that there is no ventilated attic.

If you will post some pics or sketches of what you have, I might be able to give you some helpful advice. You can PM or email me if you prefer.

Ted

Thanks Ted! I need all the help I can muster, and any advice is appreciated. I also know you are very busy, so please don't take much time with it.
I'll get some pic's of the outside/roof and inside loft and basement later.
I actually was able to relax a bit when I decided it does not have to be perfect and this resulted in me getting a full 6 hours of sleep last night which feels pretty good. A hot shower and more coffee and I should accomplish good things today.
My procrastination gave the foam the necessary time to stop smelling chemically so with the plastic in place it should be good to go atleast for showering in a normal fashion. The luke warm quickies are getting old quick, and I prefer to shave my face in the shower versus over a sink. I'de grow a beard but then my respirator would not work.

 

[TopRamen]

I could not open the loft today as it was windy, but I got a pic' of the outside of the area where the collapse of drywall and insulation occurred. There is an open window up there, so if I remove the sheet, and the breeze is blowing, I'll be bathed if fiberglass allong with my living room where I sleep, so i'm not going to open it until I have a tyvek suit, my pump sprayer full of water to mist it, and some large contractor bags to make it safe for removal. The Animals will have to be outside for this, and I'll do my best to have enough fans going to be forcing the airflow toward the open window. Once it is all bagged, a wipe down of all surfaces with rags wetted with something that kills mold like vinegar or borax.
Nothing to caustic or anything like bleach, as I've heard that bleach causes some even nastier things like dioxins to be released when it comes into contact with things like drywall. I'll sit around for a bit up there taking note on the state of affairs, so as to give the walls and whatever I have wetted time to dry, so as to be ready for the next step.
I'll exit the loft to a dropcloth booth, where I'll retrieve the foam dispensing gun that's now on my Amazon wish list, and a case of foam, and go back up and foam the ever living crap out of everything. It won't be all willy nilly or maniacal either, as I'm learning to be gentle on the trigger with the foam in a can, and felt such a fool for doing my own "Hybrid Method" of spray foam/blue foam, that today I went to the hardware store and got more foam and a roll proper 4mil heavy duty vinyl plastic sheeting. I had to spend a couple of hours with freehanding hacksaw blades to remove the majority of the worthless insulation I had wasted, but I was then able to get decent results by cutting panels to fit the openings and sealing them with spray foam. I used a hot glue gun to glue the panels together where I needed a wider or taller panel than the pieces of scrap blue foam I had on hand. I only required ONE 12oz.can of Great Stuff, as I was trying my best to be like the guy in the youtube video, and not just land foam everywhere like when I mated the top-floor to the sub-floor. The Dollar General sells a brand name of 3X Foam in a can, but I never tried to use it gently, as I always felt rushed to make use of the can. I can not even fathom how much spray foam I have wasted in the past few months!!! If I knew you could basically draw with by only letting out a little bit......:blush:

Anyhow, I'm glad I redid the crappy job, as I found voids in a couple of spots that went right through to the outside crapwood beneath the vinyl.
I'll tear the outside off before winter anyhow, but atleast now I will not disturb a squirrel or wasp nest when doing so. The Dollar Store foam shoots a good four feet, and I expected the GS to be able to go atleast 12" under full pressure, but it is not meant to be used like that, and now I know. I feel bad about wasting the 3 20oz. cans of the "Big Gap", but atleast I get a discount at that hardware store, so I'll probably be ordering my dispenser cases from them unless Amazon can beat it, and even then, may still, as I can charge stuff at my old place of work, but not with Amazon.
Either way, NO MORE WASTING SPRAY FOAM. I believe the Rocket Gods are at work here, as I have been looking for ways to cast the expanding foam, and doing all sorts of worthless experiments, but it took a lot more than, "Hey, I think this might work, let's just try it" to actually make me study it in the required depth necessary. I'm 100% confident now that I will be able to apply spray foam and the things I am learning about it's characteristics to Rocketry. I've already tried it with the mold release that Cavecentral taught me about. That works great, and I look forward to seeing what it does in contact with TFE Paste and Teflon Tape.
MAN!!! I Can't wait to get back to rocketry!!!
Stupid real-lifey house!

Also big shout out to forum member and real friend, Greg P., AKA "Adrienwapkaplet", who today offered me 30sqft. of flooring tile.


Anyhow:

 

[TopRamen]

This stuff looks pretty great.

[video=youtube;UUaRI7PYwmo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUaRI7PYwmo[/video]

 

[TopRamen]

Drywall is the real Soylent Green.

Nobody realizes it is what it is because we are already living in Ayn Rand's "Anthem"


This all makes me want to start sleeping outside.


Someone needs to re-discover the wheel quick, so we may evacuate our current continuum.

Atleast I am questioning the norms of construction methods, and that's a good start. Now I simply have to do more of the research and book learning to develop my visions to the point that they are feasible alternatives. Thankfully I have a lot of books about home repair and such, but they were in storage at my Mom's so I went and got them.

 

[cavecentral]

Just watch how you use the different foams. Those that are 2 part, mix and cure like epoxy. Usually that is used when we rocketry folk foam fin cans or fill nose cones.

The spray can stuff needs fresh air to work and you don't want that on too thick without some air. I used foam board and the canned stuff to put a 2" thick layer on one side of my attached garage. It is pink with yellow showing, but I think it helped.

 

[mkadams001]

DIY home remodeling/repair is difficult for most people. For the inexperienced it is nearly impossible and results in frustration, wasted time and money. I wish that there was someone there who could help and guide you with your project(s). At the same time I wonder why you are against conventional building methods currently used today. Alternative types of building are almost always more expensive and require special training/equipment to do the job properly.

It might be helpful if you could find someone to help and guide you. Maybe volunteer with Habitat for Humanity might help. Of course, there are tons of forums and internet resources.

In the end a house does not need to be big, expensive, or fancy to be a nice comfortable home to live in.

Remember, whatever you estimate the cost is, multiply it by four. And it still may not be enough...

 

[TopRamen]

Just watch how you use the different foams. Those that are 2 part, mix and cure like epoxy. Usually that is used when we rocketry folk foam fin cans or fill nose cones.

The spray can stuff needs fresh air to work and you don't want that on too thick without some air. I used foam board and the canned stuff to put a 2" thick layer on one side of my attached garage. It is pink with yellow showing, but I think it helped.

Thanks.
I don't have any plans yet to use any of the two part foams. I used the 3x spray stuff alread to fill the aft section of my four inch foam Martel build, and it worked well because I drilled flow holes for it and did it on a hot windy day. As it cured, I cut away excess so the important insides would fully cure.
The inside wall of the tail cone was made of clear plastic so I could see inside that it had gotten filled evenly and cured properly, and the outside was cellophane shrink wrapped for the same purpose.
I can't wait to get back to that build!!!

I have watched some videos on Youtube about folks getting the 2 part insulation done by contractors that laid it on too thick for it to cure, and it ruins the entire house with the vapors.
My Mom had a similar situation with a weird liquid oozing from her walls, and it was the insulation that was improperly installed.

 

[tmacklin]

DIY home remodeling/repair is difficult for most people. For the inexperienced it is nearly impossible and results in frustration, wasted time and money. I wish that there was someone there who could help and guide you with your project(s). At the same time I wonder why you are against conventional building methods currently used today. Alternative types of building are almost always more expensive and require special training/equipment to do the job properly.

It might be helpful if you could find someone to help and guide you. Maybe volunteer with Habitat for Humanity might help. Of course, there are tons of forums and internet resources.

In the end a house does not need to be big, expensive, or fancy to be a nice comfortable home to live in.

Remember, whatever you estimate the cost is, multiply it by four. And it still may not be enough...

Plus a Big One on this post! And keep in mind that a construction site can be a very dangerous place especially if one is working alone. Falls, cuts and electrical shocks are all too frequent and without a partner medical treatment may not be readily available. Press ahead but be careful.

Ted

 

[cavecentral]

Thanks.
I don't have any plans yet to use any of the two part foams. I used the 3x spray stuff alread to fill the aft section of my four inch foam Martel build, and it worked well because I drilled flow holes for it and did it on a hot windy day. As it cured, I cut away excess so the important insides would fully cure.
The inside wall of the tail cone was made of clear plastic so I could see inside that it had gotten filled evenly and cured properly, and the outside was cellophane shrink wrapped for the same purpose.
I can't wait to get back to that build!!!

I have watched some videos on Youtube about folks getting the 2 part insulation done by contractors that laid it on too thick for it to cure, and it ruins the entire house with the vapors.
My Mom had a similar situation with a weird liquid oozing from her walls, and it was the insulation that was improperly installed.

That said, when I did my outside garage, I just used the pick fiberglass. 16" between centers and a staple gun, then laid it in between the joist on the roof. Probably much cheaper than the 2-part foam kits. Foam maybe for the bathroom you are doing, but not sure I see the point for a whole house type deal.

 

[TopRamen]

DIY home remodeling/repair is difficult for most people. For the inexperienced it is nearly impossible and results in frustration, wasted time and money. I wish that there was someone there who could help and guide you with your project(s). At the same time I wonder why you are against conventional building methods currently used today. Alternative types of building are almost always more expensive and require special training/equipment to do the job properly.

It might be helpful if you could find someone to help and guide you. Maybe volunteer with Habitat for Humanity might help. Of course, there are tons of forums and internet resources.

In the end a house does not need to be big, expensive, or fancy to be a nice comfortable home to live in.

Remember, whatever you estimate the cost is, multiply it by four. And it still may not be enough...

Thanks.

I'm against things like drywall because it just does not make sense to me. It absorbs moisture and is not durable. What is wrong with painted plywood? the drywall also gets "Nail Pops", where as my plywood walls held with torxhead deck screws will not. Fiberglass cloth works well on lots of things, so why not parts of the bathroom?
I can't afford a bunch of drywall anyhow. So far the only wood I had to buy was the sheet of 3/4" plywood for the top floor for $27.00 The 1/2" plywood I used for the subfloor was free finds on the side of the road or near dumpsters behind businesses after I first went in and asked politely if I could have it.
I just stockpile anything I find for free outside in my largest shed, so it's there when and if I need it.
I'm actually taking my Mom to a food shelf tomorrow where I got some really nice plywood outback, and they said that they commonly throw away the scraps and sections they can't use, so I'm going to get more free hopefully tomorrow.
I have all my receipts from the hardware store, and when I went there yesterday I asked for my account balance, which stands at $419, but that also includes some of the stuff I had purchased to build my front deck/porch.
I have to DIY it because I'm poor, due to my diabetic Dog who racks up a minimum of 4-$500 a month in insulin and diabetes related issues Vet bills. She still maintains quality of life within my tolerance levels, so unless she is suddenly not enjoying life anymore, putting her down just because she costs a lot is out of the question. She's always there for me, and a very important part of my quality of life.
Regardless of the issues with my back pain, I am finding this whole experience to be wonderfully enriching, and an important learning experience. I feel foolish for not having developed these skills in my youth. As a homeowner it only makes financial sense to learn how a home is built and maintained. When I move someday, I'll be a MUCH more well informed purchaser.
Were I to be able to afford it, I would build my own house. By the time I get done fixing this one, I'll know how everything is supposed to be built, and what NOT to do, as this one was obviously the textbook example of how not to build a home. Seeing as how it is actually a "Camp" likely has something to do with it, but I've been to "Camps" that were way nicer than this, and even looked at a nice one when shopping for a home, but found out I could not buy it using my VA certificate, as it was a Camp.
Anyhow, luck break is almost over, and I need a quick coffee before I get back at it, but I've made great progress today so far.

 

[tmacklin]

Gypsum wallboard, AKA "Drywall", came on the market in the 1950's after WWII as a lower cost alternative to lath and plaster. While it adds no strength to the wall structure, it does provide a measure of fireproofing as gypsum is incombustible. It also provides sound deadening and a smooth seamless surface (once it has been taped and bedded) that can either be textured and painted, wallpapered or paneled. It should never be used as a backup material for ceramic tile in a wet area because if water works its way through the grout joints in the tile it will soften the paper surface and crumble the gypsum core of the wallboard. The key to a successful interior wall is to prevent liquid water from coming in contact with the finished wall or the insulation buried within. Therefore a watertight roof with ventilation to remove moisture is essential, as is a watertight siding or masonry veneer. Proper flashing around doors, windows and roof penetrations is also essential to prevent water infiltration.

While water is essential for life it wreaks havoc upon mans' structures.

 

[Pat_B]

Drywall ends up being more stable than a lot of other materials once it's properly painted. It should be much cheaper than plywood and gives a much nicer surface. You mentioned 1/2" plywood for subflooring. That's too thin. 3/4" tongue and groove is typically used for subfloor material- glue and screwed.

Batted insulation is also much cheaper than spray insulations. The spray stuff is great for getting into tight areas, but is more expensive for more extensive usage.

I've used this small-scale spray gun before with excellent results. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...435969130-c-7937.htm?tid=-4537819226629187923

In fact, the cans that attach to the spray gun go a really long way. I think I used two cans on a 600 square foot garage I built for sealing the corners and other various areas.

 

[dixontj93060]

Gypsum wallboard, AKA "Drywall", came on the market in the 1950's after WWII as a lower cost alternative to lath and plaster. While it adds no strength to the wall structure, it does provide a measure of fireproofing as gypsum is incombustible. It also provides sound deadening and a smooth seamless surface (once it has been taped and bedded) that can either be textured and painted, wallpapered or paneled. It should never be used as a backup material for ceramic tile in a wet area because if water works its way through the grout joints in the tile it will soften the paper surface and crumble the gypsum core of the wallboard. The key to a successful interior wall is to prevent liquid water from coming in contact with the finished wall or the insulation buried within. Therefore a watertight roof with ventilation to remove moisture is essential, as is a watertight siding or masonry veneer. Proper flashing around doors, windows and roof penetrations is also essential to prevent water infiltration.

While water is essential for life it wreaks havoc upon mans' structures.

+1. Now tell me about "green" board. That is what was installed in my bathrooms when the house was built.