Which, if any of these would you use to clear coat rockets?

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trialsguy

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I painted several rockets last summer with spray can Rustoleum, Krylon and Testors paints. Some of the rockets have decales, and some have stickers. Which, if any of these would you use to clear coat these rockets? IMG_6173.jpg
 

DarthMuffin

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The acrylic would be tougher and probably more heat resistant and easier to apply. Lacquer polishes out really nicely though if you're going for some contest where looks count. It also depends what type of paint is underneath, has to be compatible with whatever clear is used.
 

caveduck

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I probably wouldn't use any of those. You want a UV-resistant clear, or your model will turn shockingly yellow in a few years. If it doesn't say UV-resistant on the can, it's not - UV clears cost noticeably more. Krylon makes a UV resistant clear #K01305 which is readily available. Dupli-color "1K clear" is more expensive but comes in both gloss and matte versions.

I've had to strip and re-finish a couple of models on which I used low-end clear coats a long time ago. I tend to use Pledge/Future like Neil mentioned for gloss clear these days. You can't wet-sand it but it's very inexpensive and easily removable without damaging paint or decals.
 

Back_at_it

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Lacquer paints tend to be very "hot" and can cause issues over enamels and even some other lacquers.

I have used that Krylon over Tamiya, Testor, Ace, Rustoleum and a bunch of other misc. cheapo brands of paint and never had an issue. Best option honestly is to clear using the same brand that you used to paint with. If you used Krylon to paint then use Krylon to clear.
 

bjphoenix

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Definitely test for compatibility before you start painting the entire rocket. It can be unpredictable what paint will work with what paint, I think changes in paint chemistry over the years can even make one brand incompatible with itself. However acrylic would go over anything.
 

Warren Baker

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I have been disappointed in paint so much I went to automotive paint.
 

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afadeev

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I painted several rockets last summer with spray can Rustoleum, Krylon and Testors paints. Some of the rockets have decales, and some have stickers. Which, if any of these would you use to clear coat these rockets?

Neither one of the above.
Consider one of the following instead:
clear coats.jpg

I've used both over water-slide and vinyl decals. Both worked great, dried fast, had no adverse reaction with the base coats.
The first one is significantly more expensive then the second one.

a
 
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After a bad lifting/wrinkling problem using an enamel gloss over an enamel finish, like Neil, I've come to rely on Future, (aka "Pledge Floor Care", formerly known as "Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish" and now known as "Pledge Floor Gloss") rather than risking any paint compatibility problems.

It's a water-soluble acrylic coating that I've used with no problems over decals, lacquer, and enamel paints.
 

beeblebrox

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I like this stuff (And the color paints too) This is more like the old Krylon from before the Low VOC requirements for home products. Unfortunately not in stock for a while.

1633536423069.png
 
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After a bad lifting/wrinkling problem using an enamel gloss over an enamel finish, like Neil, I've come to rely on Future, (aka "Pledge Floor Care", formerly known as "Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish" and now known as "Pledge Floor Gloss") rather than risking any paint compatibility problems.

It's a water-soluble acrylic coating that I've used with no problems over decals, lacquer, and enamel paints.

How are you applying it? I tried this years ago, and didn't have great luck with either the application, nor the aging of the coat.
 

Woody's Workshop

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What ever you use, remember the Golden Finishing Rule.
You can put enamel over Lacquer, but putting Lacquer over Enamel doesn't work.
It will lift, crinkle, bubble and all sorts of other undesirable things that will make cuss you head off.
Anything that isn't UV resistant will yellow over time, even if it isn't in sunlight.
I've never been a fan of using floor finish on rockets.
I did finish a rocket, once, with a 24hour cure time flexible epoxy made for building fishing poles.
You spend a day rotating things so runs don't build up, and I still got an uneven finish.
Luckily, it will sand smooth and polish up nicely. I just haven't done it yet.
And yes, it added significant weight to the kit.
But I did it as an experiment, and have yet to fly it.
 
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The @#$%^& of using clear spray is that if it wrinkles, you're screwed. If the paint wrinkles, you can sand it and try again. Once the paint is dried and decals applied, you get what you got when the clear is applied. The only issue I have with Pledge floor gloss is that it likes to drip, especially on my gold Xarconian Cruiser. I think it gives it a patina look.
 

VFA-22-Bonefish

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Personally I like 2K clear coat finishes. The one I use is made by a company in the UK for automotive applications, but can be purchased in aerosol cans if you either don’t want to fuss with spray equipment or simply don’t own any. It’s distributed in the US via their company in Tampa, Florida. The only downside to using a 2K product is as soon as you cut open the inner tube and shake the aerosol can the product begins to cure within the spray can, and has no shelf life. Think of the 2K as an epoxy with one part acting as a resin, and the other as a hardener. Once the inner tube is opened, be prepared to have a couple of rockets that require clear coating lined up so you can get the most out of your purchase. Almost forgot. This clear coat, as with all of their paints, are urethane based.

Cheers!

 
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trialsguy

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Do I need to use an “air supply” respirator when spraying this paint? Or can I use my cartridge filter type respirator?
 
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How are you applying it? I tried this years ago, and didn't have great luck with either the application, nor the aging of the coat.
Apply with a foam brush on a rocket hung upside down over a trash can with a plastic trash liner or other disposable (waterproof) container. Let it "drip dry" and reapply another coat if you wish. I've even used it to protect decals on gliders (though I usually have the balsa coated with either a thin layer of dope/lacquer or Minwax Polycrylic to protect the balsa from humidity or a wet flying field).
 
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Apply with a foam brush on a rocket hung upside down over a trash can with a plastic trash liner or other disposable (waterproof) container. Let it "drip dry" and reapply another coat if you wish. I've even used it to protect decals on gliders (though I usually have the balsa coated with either a thin layer of dope/lacquer or Minwax Polycrylic to protect the balsa from humidity or a wet flying field).
And don't leave the NC on or the wax will "glue" it to the body. I had to cut off top of the AMRAAM because of this.
 

cbwho

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Today, I tried automotive Duplicolor clear coat and water based Minwax Polycrylic gloss spray can. The minwax went on thicker and sometimes splattered due to the cheap nozzle. Afterwards I put them beneath a heat lamp as it was only 50F outside...

I accidentally had the polystyrene parts too close to the heat lamp and they melted a bit. I wouldn't have thought that would happen :(

The Duplicolor really smells badly and stinks up the garage even though I sprayed in the backyard. Also the papered fins and body really soaked up the clear coat and it's more satin due to this. I only clear coat for water protection.


The minwax polycrylic gloss went on thicker and it seemed to smooth out as it dried. The rocket appears shinier. Also no stink.

So the minwax wins this round.

The minwax spray can says interior only. What is the consequences of that?

I seek water resistance due to snow or dew.
 
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