Which air gun for painting?

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I preheat oven on warm before putting in oven. Next I turn the oven off and set painted object inside and close door for about one hour. Do this about two times. You do not want it too hot or you will distort plastic nose cone.
 
My Paasch has a #5 tip. It's largest size in kit. I also use the siphoning jars that came with it...one small 1 oz and one larger 4 oz. The 4 oz size is what I used when I painted the big daddy. I did not have to stop and refill. I used the 1 oz jar when I painted the smaller rocket in picture.
 
I want the sprayer that has 3 nozzles 1.4, 1.8 and 2.mm that way i can spray heavies and thins
 
I did a little reading and for the size of my little pancake 4g compressor, if i ran a hvlp 1.5-2.0mm i would run out of air quick. I think that this .7mm lvlp k-3 is going to work just fine with my compressor. Hopefully i will be able to spray a decent thick coat of primer with it and hey if it leaks really bad and is a total pos, im only out 15 bucks so i think ill get my money out of it if i can do 2 or 3 little projects.

Screenshot_2021-05-04-00-54-59-085.jpgScreenshot_2021-05-04-00-54-47-818.jpg
 
I will post pics of some work when it gets here in a few days. All of my builds are on hold now, have to wait for little stuff like paint and kevlar string. I dont mind taking my time though, it gives me more time to learn the building processes and most importantly, b.s. with forum members. When you take a year to build a mpr, atleast 1 thing on the rocket should look professional lol
 
Haha my wife would beat me and chain me up if i even thought about it lol seriously though what spray gun should i get? I see .5m up to 1.8. i only have a 6gal air compressor tank so if i get the 1.8 then i will only be able to use it a few seconds before it runs out of air right?
tip size is for the viscosity of the paint. running a thicker paint through a smaller tip size results in poor atomization= the finish can have a truck bed liner texture.
the cfm and psi the gun requires determines volume of air used over time.

ive used a pancake compressor with a touchup gun with 1.3 tip and was somewhat successful. i had to learn how much i can spray before the pressure got too low.
another concern is both heat and moisture buildup. compressors running make the air hot. also causes moisture build up in the tank. heat and moisture are enemies so eliminating them is important.
a cheap cooler can be made by coiling up an air hose ina 5 gallon bucket. drop a bag of ice in and fill it with water. have a moisture trap/filter after.
also, cracking the drain on the tank just a bit while using it will help get rid of moisture buildup in the tank.
 
Haha my wife would beat me and chain me up if i even thought about it lol seriously though what spray gun should i get? I see .5m up to 1.8. i only have a 6gal air compressor tank so if i get the 1.8 then i will only be able to use it a few seconds before it runs out of air right?
Mine would as well, but hmm.... we're thinking of replacing our appliances (19 year old refrig...) and you just gave me a great idea about where to put my still-working oven! :D
 
Mine would as well, but hmm.... we're thinking of replacing our appliances (19 year old refrig...) and you just gave me a great idea about where to put my still-working oven! :D
Lol i have an old oven in my backyard and i think just the oven part works and not the eyes. l may try to plug it in and stand back
 
Last edited:
Check out Createx Wicked Colors. Or their Auto Air line. WC can be bought in most hobby lobby stores. Inexpensive water clean up.
I just bought some Createx Flourescent and opaque primary colors at HL; they also have the Wicked Colors. Hoping to airbrush them with a Binks Wren compressor and Paasche airbrush; supposedly they don't require thinning but I'll have to see. Anyone else with any experience that way?
 
I want to get a air gun to paint my rockets and other small projects. Should i get the larger automotive spray gun or the smaller one?
OK, here is my advice from a commercial artist/designer for over 40+ years. I have used all types of airbrushes and spray guns....here goes, take it if you wish.

The airbrush will give you finer effects and apply the paint thinner which is what you want. However, if you are painting large rockets it will take more time, but the results will be much better (less chance of crazing due to different paint types covering too thick and putting top coats on too thick). Paasche is a good respectable brand and you can get various tips for it #1-#5. VL series is good and get a double action so you can control both air pressure and amount of paint using the single double action spray button. Like the one you have in your image.

The HVLP gun you show puts on way more paint and much thicker coats....it’s great for painting furniture, cars, and really big rockets....but as I said, the paint goes on thicker as it is harder to control the amount than with a small airbrush. If you want really thick primer or top coats that is the gun for you. I have found with cheap HVLP guns like the one you show....it is very hard to dial down the paint as it usually results with more pressure and sputtering...you need a certain amount of paint to go through those guns to make them work right.

Just my opinion. Enjoy.
 
OK, here is my advice from a commercial artist/designer for over 40+ years. I have used all types of airbrushes and spray guns....here goes, take it if you wish.

The airbrush will give you finer effects and apply the paint thinner which is what you want. However, if you are painting large rockets it will take more time, but the results will be much better (less chance of crazing due to different paint types covering too thick and putting top coats on too thick). Paasche is a good respectable brand and you can get various tips for it #1-#5. VL series is good and get a double action so you can control both air pressure and amount of paint using the single double action spray button. Like the one you have in your image.

The HVLP gun you show puts on way more paint and much thicker coats....it’s great for painting furniture, cars, and really big rockets....but as I said, the paint goes on thicker as it is harder to control the amount than with a small airbrush. If you want really thick primer or top coats that is the gun for you. I have found with cheap HVLP guns like the one you show....it is very hard to dial down the paint as it usually results with more pressure and sputtering...you need a certain amount of paint to go through those guns to make them work right.

Just my opinion. Enjoy.
(Thread interloper here!) I appreciate that - I have a Paache VL, with at least #1 and #3 needles, but I'm not sure of the capabilities of my 45 year old Binks Wren 34-2024 (I think) compressor- it runs fine, puts out air, but I have no idea how much pressure & flow- there's nothing on the nameplate. I put a moisture separator in line, though. So you may have saved me some bucks, I was thinking of such a gun in place of fume-laden rattle cans. I guess I'll just have to see how these Createx Opaques flow, and if I have to thin them, then I just do.
 
Last edited:
Most brushes take between 18 psi and 35 psi....a very big range which enables all different types of pigment...from thin dyes to thick primers....i think your compressor should be able to handle it even if it doesn’t have a tank. But you will probably have to thin down the thicker colors and primers.
 
Most brushes take between 18 psi and 35 psi....a very big range which enables all different types of pigment...from thin dyes to thick primers....i think your compressor should be able to handle it even if it doesn’t have a tank. But you will probably have to thin down the thicker colors and primers.
So my water trap, regulator, air brushes (gravity and syphon) and lvlp gun should all be here by may10th and im stoked! Found a larger 30 or 40 gallon vintage air compressor in my grandpas backyard ( ive taken over a backyard full of rusty gold because he has dementia and cant use it anymore) and i want to get it running so i wont have to worry about running low on pressure.
 
(Thread interloper here!) I appreciate that - I have a Paache VL, with at least #1 and #3 needles, but I'm not sure of the capabilities of my 45 year old Binks Wren 34-2024 (I think) compressor- it runs fin, puts out air, but I have no idea how much pressure & flow- there's nothing on the nameplate. I put a moister separator in line, though. So you may have saved me some bucks, I was thinking of such a gun in place of fume-laden rattle cans. I guess I'll just have to see how these Createx Opaques flow, and if I have to thin them, then I just do.
Do you have an in line regulator on your compressor?
 
No, I sure don't. It's a teensy little hobby compressor. At least the air brush is double action, but with my small amount of experience, that double action is taking some getting used to, particlularly on the air regulation. I'll bet it's second nature to our friend @icyclops here.
 
No, I sure don't. It's a teensy little hobby compressor. At least the air brush is double action, but with my small amount of experience, that double action is taking some getting used to, particlularly on the air regulation. I'll bet it's second nature to our friend @icyclops here.
I got a cheap digital one on ebay for i think 9.99, i read that its a must to keep the pressure coming out of the gun consistent. They even have really little valves that will regulate the pressure for $1.50. But hey, if it works good for you, you may not need one.
 
Last edited:
The first coat should go on thin, this is called the tack coat (reduces following coat from runs). The following coats or final coat should go on thicker to achieve gloss. Dust, dirt and bugs are the enemy.
 
I got a cheap digital one on ebay for i think 9.99, i read that its a must to keep the pressure coming out of the gun consistent. They even have really little valves that will regulate the pressure for $1.50. But hey, if it works good for you, you may not need one.
You are correct...a regulator is a must.
 
So i tore apart the larger compressor today and cleaned it all up and got it running, will change the oil on it tomorrow and seal up any leaks with some pipe tape. Its a 1hp 14gallon sanborn 64a 100-14. Looks like a very well built compressor, im sure that had something to do with it cranking right up after sitting in the high weeds and mud for 15 or 20 years.
 
Thanks to you both; I've never used a regulator before. I'll see what's out there.
Heres the cheapest regulator you can get but it doesnt say what pressure ur running, its just a valve and quick release. Screenshot_2021-05-05-22-45-52-463.jpg
Here is the one with the guage and water/oil trap which i highly suggest for just a few bucks more. Both of these had quick free shipping and i didnt have to even get my butt to go get them. :)
Screenshot_2021-05-05-22-45-27-277.jpg
 
You will need the one with a gauge/dial adjustment knob on it so you can see and adjust the pressure....make sure the fitting size is right with your compressor, otherwise you may have to buy a coupling. One end attaches to your compressor, the other attaches to the hose leading to the airbrush.
 
Today I test sprayed Tamiya laquer over Rust-oleum White primer. This combo did not work. The paint crazed and never hardened. I am now sure the Rust-oleum is enamel. A laquer primer should work such as Tamiyas brand. Testors enamals can be sprayed over most anything. Which is probably why Estes sells Testors on their web site.
 
Yeh you can spray enamel on top of laquer because enamel will not break down the laquer. But if you spray lacquer on top of enamel then the laquer will most definitely break down the enamel.
 
Back
Top