4Fg is recommended, however 3Fg is more common and more readily available than 4Fg ( aka FFFFg). Cabelas may have one or both types, 4F is used for priming flintlocks, and 3F is used for the main charges in BP firearms. Do not get a black powder subsitute such as Pyrodex, Triple Seven (777) while they can be made to work, real BP is easier and more reliable for our uses.Can I just go down to Cabelas and buy a little thing of black powder for rifles or something? I didnt come up with much on a search, just found out to add more. Dont want my Gforce turning into a lawn dart again. Thanks.
Last time I bought some it was for a cannon. I told the guy it was for a cannon. We used it in a cannon, at a wake. CANNON.Last time I bought mine it was from a Bass Pro Shop and then ended up carrying it around the mall attached to it for the next couple of hours. That seemed really strange.......
It was a fairly small cannon, designed for golf balls. We used tinfoil for the projectile.We normally call it 4f but like Rich says, it will actually say FFFFg on the can. 3f (FFFg) will work, but if you have to buy some just for rocketry, opt for 4f if it is available. The more 'F's, the smaller the grains; the smaller the grains the more energetic the burn. Generally the smaller amount you need, the smaller grain you will use. 4f should never be used in a cannon lol, unless its a small cannon.
And yes, if asked tell them it is for a muzzleloader. If you have to be specific: a .32 caliber pistol or the flash pan on your flintlock that you got as an early Christmas present.
You could also extend you motor mount up to reduce volume to be pressurized, aka a stuffer tube.
Awesome. Cannons are cool no matter how small. We got my dad a small "Old Ironsides" in .68. It is supposed to use 2f but we probably will use some of my 3f, just smaller doses. I use 3f in my 50 cal rifle all the time, and it is supposed to use 2f as well.It was a fairly small cannon, designed for golf balls. We used tinfoil for the projectile.
They sell pocket cannons for about fifty which take wrist rocket bearings, which helps the cannon story be absolutely true.
Pyrodex needs tighter containment than black powder to get the same sort of fast burning that produces the gasses needed for an ejection charge. It can be done, but isn't the best product.I did some looking on the Cabelas site and it looks like they only have Pyrodex. What is the weak point of this stuff? Will it help any if thats all I can find? Ill keep looking and go down there and take a look. Id really hate to have to order some and pay hazmat.
What type of motors are you putting in your GForce? I lawn darted my GForce on its maiden flight because the coupler was too tight. That was when I first started in mid power and didn't get the coupler sanded aggressively to provide a smooth and easy separation. I salvaged the booster and rebuilt the rest of the rocket. I have launched it since then 15 or so times on AT G's and never had a problem, or had to add more powder.Part 2 of my thead I guess should be how much extra powder should I add so my Gforce will eject a parachute? Should I add some extra just in case to all my rockets, an Initiator and Strong Arm? Can there be too much?