What I did today -instead- of Rocketry.

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Went for a run; helped the older son bake and ice a cake; spent some time in the office doing finance, bills and immigration stuff; walked to the bakery with younger son (where he ordered in passable French); finished the new trellis for the kiwi; and made a hardware store run to get stuff to fix fence. After that I was tired and declared “hell with cooking” and ordered pizza.

Also, ordered some new running shoes as my latest pair of high cushion trainers (Adidas PrimeX Strung 2…version 1 was my favorite shoe ever and they completely ruined it in v2) had one of the internal plates snap after 10 miles, which left me training in race shoes. Those are fast, but are unforgiving and not something I can run multiple times every week in without pain.

Basically, it was a delightfully uneventful Sunday. The weather was beautiful and stuff got marked off the to do list at a relaxed pace.
 
I don't want to rain on your parade, but consider mechanical engineering as well. There are lots of jobs in the aerospace industry that use a mechanical engineering degree, and it gives you some flexibility with non-aerospace jobs as well. Looking from the outside, it appeared that there were more new grad applicants than jobs available when my son was trying to find work in the aerospace industry. When he applied at non-aerospace jobs, the first question (if he even got an interview) was "How do we know you'll stick around and not bail for [Blue Origin or SpaceX or whatever] if a job comes available?"
All that, and that an electrical engineering degree can also be put to use in aerospace. (And my degree being EE has nothing to do with that 😁.) Once you have an engineering degree of whatever flavor, and you get a dream job in the aerospace business, what do you dream you're doing? Designing wings? Structures? Hydraulics? Integration of components into subsystems and subsystems into systems? I urge you to pick an engineering concentration based on that. I don't mean to knock AE, plenty of smart people do plenty of good work with AE degrees, but ME and EE are more portable and can get you an aerospace job just as well, or close to it.
 
Also, ordered some new running shoes as my latest pair of high cushion trainers (Adidas PrimeX Strung 2…version 1 was my favorite shoe ever and they completely ruined it in v2) had one of the internal plates snap after 10 miles, which left me training in race shoes. Those are fast, but are unforgiving and not something I can run multiple times every week in without pain.

What'd you get?
 
What'd you get?

Asics Superblast 2 Paris. I hate super squashy shoes, I'm slow enough already, so I try to get a high stack shoe that still doesn't feel like running in sand....at 185 lbs it's a hard balance. Had the Nike Invincible Run 2 previously and a run in those was risking dying of boredom. The PrimeX Strung was the perfect leg sparing cushion shoe that still had some get up and go. They just wrecked it with the v2.
 
Asics Superblast 2 Paris. I hate super squashy shoes, I'm slow enough already, so I try to get a high stack shoe that still doesn't feel like running in sand....at 185 lbs it's a hard balance. Had the Nike Invincible Run 2 previously and a run in those was risking dying of boredom. The PrimeX Strung was the perfect leg sparing cushion shoe that still had some get up and go. They just wrecked it with the v2.

You might like the Adidas Takumi Sen as well, or even the Saucony Speed 3 or 4. The upper on the Takumi Sen is real minimal and not super comfortable, but it is a very lively shoe. I really like the Saucony Speed, the upper is more traditional and very comfortable. If shoes were cars, the Speed would be a Ford Crown Vic with a V8. My daily trainer is the Saucony Ride (like a well worn vanilla Toyota Corolla).
 
You might like the Adidas Takumi Sen as well, or even the Saucony Speed 3 or 4. The upper on the Takumi Sen is real minimal and not super comfortable, but it is a very lively shoe. I really like the Saucony Speed, the upper is more traditional and very comfortable. If shoes were cars, the Speed would be a Ford Crown Vic with a V8. My daily trainer is the Saucony Ride (like a well worn vanilla Toyota Corolla).

I don't think I've ever heard someone say anything bad about the Takumi Sen, but I generally use a pair of Adizero Adios Pro 3 or past race mileage Vaporflys for faster sessions. Here I was looking for that low to middle pace, long mileage road shoe that doesn't make me fall asleep. Never tried any of the Saucony line though, so thanks for the suggestions. I'm doing so many of my miles on trails these days that it may be some time until I need another pair of road shoes.
 
More tidying up at our old and new houses. Got a trailer full of metal and took it to recycling. Also dropped off some paint and cardboard.

Got a second trailer load of general waste packed and carted it off to the waste transfer station. I would have put it out for free hard rubbish collection, but my wife was impatient. That cost us $90.
20241104_185418.jpg

Luckily I can borrow a trailer from work :) .

Mowed the lawn and put the bins out.

That's enough for today.

Tomorrow is a public holiday, for a horse race (Melbourne Cup).
 
Finally got all the clocks reset. New batteries in the two analog clocks. The smoke detector runs off of house AC, so no batteries to change (and no gas/oil heating, so no CO detector).
 
Started to replace an outside light fixture. (Light bulb was very thick, heavy glass, may have been installed back when they built it around 1970.) Stopped when I realized that the labeling on the new fixture was reversed from the instructions. LIVE in the instruction was labeled NEUTRAL on the fixture, and vice versa.:eek::oops:⚡ Contacted the company, waiting for instruction. *Not* exactly a trivial issue; will submit to CPSC.
 
What surface prep are you doing before/after the weld? That surface looks contaminated enough that it would be really hard to get any kind of decent weld.
I had a similar thought, then thought "There's no way he trying to weld it starting out that dirty and painted." Maybe next time take before and after pictures.

Actually, if you started with painted metal and got that weld, my hat's off to you on the weld per se, but not on the whole of the job.
 
Started to replace an outside light fixture. (Light bulb was very thick, heavy glass, may have been installed back when they built it around 1970.) Stopped when I realized that the labeling on the new fixture was reversed from the instructions. LIVE in the instruction was labeled NEUTRAL on the fixture, and vice versa.:eek::oops:⚡ Contacted the company, waiting for instruction. *Not* exactly a trivial issue; will submit to CPSC.
Wow! What brand is that?
 
Looking better. Give it a good wire brushing before taking a picture and it'll look even better.
Last weld of the day, the bell had just rung so I was hustling, I had only just got all the slag off.
What surface prep are you doing before/after the weld? That surface looks contaminated enough that it would be really hard to get any kind of decent weld.
It was unpainted steel, I had only gave it a good scraping with the hammer.
I had a similar thought, then thought "There's no way he trying to weld it starting out that dirty and painted." Maybe next time take before and after pictures.

Actually, if you started with painted metal and got that weld, my hat's off to you on the weld per se, but not on the whole of the job.
The light brown stuff is mostly fine slag particles from the welding, it’s a normal part of stick welding from my understanding, it sticks a little but it just scrapes off like dirt and it’ll come off by itself a bit to.
 
I'm not a welder; I've never done any welding except with oxy-acetylene, and that was over 45 years ago. And even I know this: like so many other things, the great majority of it is prep. Try a weld with really well cleaned metal and then show us what you've got.
 
Cleaned the chandelier we bought when we moved into our new house 25 years ago. It's suspended ten feet above a tile floor in our entranceway.
2024-11-5 Chandelier.jpg

Forty-four pieces of cut, beveled and polished bronze glass, with etched stars and a drilled hole to hang them.
2024-11-5 Chandelier glass.jpg

Twenty-four little round 25 watt clear incandescent bulbs, one of which fell out of the broken Bakelite socket, landing safely on the mattress pad I put under the ladder. Super glued the socket back together.
This is the second time in twenty five years I have cleaned it.
 
It's Feit, bought at Menards. Connections at the fixture are poorly labeled. No green for ground screws, no red or black for hot. Just an almost unnoticed imprint of L and N on the black plastic. Jeeez....
Wow, that almost seems criminally negligent, it was mains voltage correct? If so that a fire or electrocution in the making!
 
Wow, that almost seems criminally negligent, it was mains voltage correct? If so that a fire or electrocution in the making!
Yes, mains voltage. Contacted the company yesterday and nada. I just finished a report to the CPSC. Possibly I could have hooked it up and just had the breaker blown...but no thanks. As a chem prof I know literally hundreds of ways to injure or re-kit this body; don't need another one.
 
You may be able to work around the problem for your installation. By no means am I saying this is OK, and you are definitely doing the right things about it (not that you needed me to tell you so).

Is the fixture a two wire device? If so, then it will operate whichever way you hook the wires up, since an AC device can't be polarity sensitive. It's a light fixture, you said; does it have an old fashioned light bulb socket? Test continuity from the center contact of the socket to the power wires and the one that's connected is the hot, obviously. Is there some other kind of socket for a bulb? You can do the same as long as it's clear (or the internet can tell you) which contact is supposed to be hot.

If there's no socket, check resistance from each wire to the ground screw; you did say there's an unlabeled ground screw, didn't you? It needs to be labeled, but you know what it is. At least one should be completely isolated, but it may be that one shows a connection through some amount of resistance, in which case that's the neutral.

If none of that pans out, yer SOL.
 
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