WHAT FILLET MATERIAL IS YOUR FAVORITE TO USE?

[JoeFilgas]

What’s everyone’s go to fillet material method? For LPR wood glue is quick and easy and works great for me. Once I hit mid to high power builds I absolutely love WEST SYSTEMS 105 Epoxy Resin, 206 Slow Hardener and 406 Colloidal filler mixed to the consistency of peanut butter. I did all 5 fins and the launch lug at the same time today. I pull the tape immediately and then smooth them all with an alcohol wetted finger. Super easy to work with then let it be alone for a day. Easily sandable after that with a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter. Any imperfections left are then filled with Upol Fantastic auto glazing putty and later finish sanded. Others have deemed these the Filgas Fillets lol! I’m good with that!

 

[neil_w]

I'm partial to fondant.*

Got any more pics of the third rocket? The red striping job is really spiffy.





*seriously, I do LPR and small MPR so it's just wood glue for me, usually a combination of TBII and TB Quick and Thick

 

[Jeff Curtis]

Titebond 2 for LPR. For bigger rockets I use Systems 3 T-88 and microballons. The microballoons are almost gone and I'll switch to colloidal filler. I've also been trying Total Boats FlexEpox. Supposed good for fiberglass and not as brittle as other epoxies once dry. Seemed to work fine on my Wildman Darkstar mini, so I ordered some bigger bottles.

 

[John Kemker]

What’s everyone’s go to fillet material method? For LPR wood glue is quick and easy and works great for me. Once I hit mid to high power builds I absolutely love WEST SYSTEMS 105 Epoxy Resin, 206 Slow Hardener and 406 Colloidal filler mixed to the consistency of peanut butter. I did all 5 fins and the launch lug at the same time today. I pull the tape immediately and then smooth them all with an alcohol wetted finger. Super easy to work with then let it be alone for a day. Easily sandable after that with a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter. Any imperfections left are then filled with Upol Fantastic auto glazing putty and later finish sanded. Others have deemed these the Filgas Fillets lol! I’m good with that!

I'm with you on the U-Pol Fantastic, but have recently discovered U-Pol Fibral Lite. Instead of being filled with talc (like Fantastic) it's filled with fiberglass. Goes on a bit rough looking, but smooths out pretty easily. A tad more structural than Fantastic. I tried the Fibral Lite on the recommendation of the guy that does all the body work on my truck, Der Red Maxine.

Not a fan of mixing laminating epoxy with colloidal silica or similar filler. Just hasn't worked out as smoothly as I'd like and is a bit tougher to sand. The auto body filler, using polyester resin as the base, is a bit easier to sand.

 

[JoeFilgas]

I'm with you on the U-Pol Fantastic, but have recently discovered U-Pol Fibral Lite. Instead of being filled with talc (like Fantastic) it's filled with fiberglass. Goes on a bit rough looking, but smooths out pretty easily. A tad more structural than Fantastic. I tried the Fibral Lite on the recommendation of the guy that does all the body work on my truck, Der Red Maxine.

Not a fan of mixing laminating epoxy with colloidal silica or similar filler. Just hasn't worked out as smoothly as I'd like and is a bit tougher to sand. The auto body filler, using polyester resin as the base, is a bit easier to sand.

Thanks I’ll have to try the U-Pol Fibral Lite I hadn’t hear or seen that one!

 

[JoeFilgas]

I'm partial to fondant.*

Got any more pics of the third rocket? The red striping job is really spiffy.





*seriously, I do LPR and small MPR so it's just wood glue for me, usually a combination of TBII and TB Quick and Thick

Okie Dokie!

 

[JoeFilgas]

I'm partial to fondant.*

Got any more pics of the third rocket? The red striping job is really spiffy.





*seriously, I do LPR and small MPR so it's just wood glue for me, usually a combination of TBII and TB Quick and Thick

 

[bjphoenix]

I use Titebond II for LPR, 2 layers. For mid power my last build used JB Weld epoxy wood putty because I had some left from another project. This was the first time I used this material and probably didn't do as well as I could have but the fillets came out great.

 

[neil_w]

Argh, sorry I meant the second one, black with red striping.

The red and gold one is lovely as well of course.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Argh, sorry I meant the second one, black with red striping.

The red and gold one is lovely as well of course.

No worries that would be my LOC Precision #780 BAT ROCKET!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Argh, sorry I meant the second one, black with red striping.

The red and gold one is lovely as well of course.

 

[Hobie1dog]

Very nice thank you for all the pictures. I use Tight Bond II for all MPR rockets and i use black epoxy that comes in a two-Part cartridge gun made by Global Adhesives really tough stuff.

 

[jkovac]

West System Six10 for minimum diameter high power.

 

[Banzai88]

4500. Once I figured out how to use it, I've never looked back and rarely had to sand other than to apply paint.

 

[manixFan]

After looking at these photos, I’m going to need counseling to get over my feelings of inadequacy when it comes to finishing.


Tony

 

[nickt.mrc]

Once my structural fillets are hard, I go over them again by retaping and I use 90 minute working time Araldite mixed with corn flour to a consistency like toothpaste. It takes at least 3 hours to harden, so you can mix the whole lot and do everything in 1 go and still have time to retouch any bumpy bits. The tape comes off as soon as the application is done. The result is often smooth enough to not require sanding.It's at least 24 hours before you can paint.

 

[JoeFilgas]

4500. Once I figured out how to use it, I've never looked back and rarely had to sand other than to apply paint.

I haven’t heard of that before I’ll have to check it out! Thanks for chiming in!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Once my structural fillets are hard, I go over them again by retaping and I use 90 minute working time Araldite mixed with corn flour to a consistency like toothpaste. It takes at least 3 hours to harden, so you can mix the whole lot and do everything in 1 go and still have time to retouch any bumpy bits. The tape comes off as soon as the application is done. The result is often smooth enough to not require sanding.It's at least 24 hours before you can paint.

Another material I’ve not heard of thanks for chiming in! I’ll have to look into this one too!

 

[JoeFilgas]

After looking at these photos, I’m going to need counseling to get over my feelings of inadequacy when it comes to finishing.


Tony

Thanks Tony!

 

[nickt.mrc]

Like Tony, I'm in awe of those paint jobs. I'm far too impatient to achieve anything like that.

---

 

[nickt.mrc]

JoeFilgas, here's one of a set of 8 fins I've just done on a 2 stage, using thickened Araldite for the top layer. As you can see no need for sanding. Will be painting this weekend, although not to anywhere near yor standard.

 

[Jay Rairigh]

I like smaller fillets and usually use Bob Smith 20 min. finish cure epoxy. It flows into the fillet area easier than other epoxies.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Like Tony, I'm in awe of those paint jobs. I'm far too impatient to achieve anything like that.

---

Thanks so much I sincerely appreciate that!

JoeFilgas, here's one of a set of 8 fins I've just done on a 2 stage, using thickened Araldite for the top layer. As you can see no need for sanding. Will be painting this weekend, although not to anywhere near yor standard.

so a convex surface to the fillet….interesting!

 

[John Brohm]

For my LPR models I just stick with a good wood glue for fillets; I'm typically using Sig's Sig-Bond, but it's pretty much like any other yellow glue. For my L1 scratch build, OId 54, I used 5-min epoxy mixed with micro-balloons for the fillets. The old girl has a number of flights on her by now, with no damage or cracks to the fillets.

 

[Rocket-Fan]

For my LPR models I just stick with a good wood glue for fillets; I'm typically using Sig's Sig-Bond, but it's pretty much like any other yellow glue. For my L1 scratch build, OId 54, I used 5-min epoxy mixed with micro-balloons for the fillets. The old girl has a number of flights on her by now, with no damage or cracks to the fillets.

Those are some sharp looking builds. Love that Aphelion!

 

[lr64]

After looking at these photos, I’m going to need counseling to get over my feelings of inadequacy when it comes to finishing.


Tony

At 1,000 feet, no one can tell the difference.

 

[JoeFilgas]

For my LPR models I just stick with a good wood glue for fillets; I'm typically using Sig's Sig-Bond, but it's pretty much like any other yellow glue. For my L1 scratch build, OId 54, I used 5-min epoxy mixed with micro-balloons for the fillets. The old girl has a number of flights on her by now, with no damage or cracks to the fillets.

Awesome builds thanks for chiming in!

 

[gidgettw]

+1 for 4500 - 28 inch long fillet

 

[Dave S.]

i have had great luck with West System 610 thickened epoxy in those tubes that you use with a caulk gun.

Wildman carries it.

 

[4regt4]

Where does one get U-Pol Fantastic? I just looked around and came up empty. Autozone, Harbor Freight, WallyWorld yada, --- nothing.

Hans.