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The Tripoli Records Committee posted my new G record: 10,093ft on a G150. That was over 3 years in the making & was such a cool flight to see. Perfect weather and the perfect launch site. I'm really happy it broke 10k. Huge thanks to Tripoli Colorado and everyone there for the great support & camaraderie! Also, thanks to my family for going on the 2,500 mile road trip with me!!

George Barnes caught the only complete still picture of it after the motor lit. My DSLR's frame rate wasn't fast enough to get it all in one frame...<ignition...gone> (my launch photo below)

Even better: Nearly 10 years in the making, my son & I were hanging out in the shop and he said "Dad, I want to come up with my own rocket designs and build them. Can you teach me?"

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Well, that's about too cool for school. Your son's reaction is the best part. George is amazingly good with photography along with his many other skills . Congratulations on your achievement.

Jim
 
I heard about you all the way out at Tripoli San Diego’s launch earlier this month. Congratulations, that’s an astonishing achievement. Any images of the airframe itself, or are you keeping the design a secret?
Wow, I had no idea. That kinda blows me away people were talking about it at other launches. Thanks, I really appreciate that. Sorry, I only plan to share the photos that are already on the record page. I think I posted a fillet photo on this thread a while back too. You can see most of the external design from those photos though. 3fnc! ;) http://tripoli-records.org/records/single.html

Well, that's about too cool for school. Your son's reaction is the best part. George is amazingly good with photography along with his many other skills . Congratulations on your achievement.
Thanks Jim!
 
Today I'm about finished with assembly of my current project. I put filets on the canards, attached the rear centering ring and thrust plate and drilled vent holes. I added a 5/16th threaded rod with an eye nut and 6 ounces of BB's and epoxy to the nose cone. Then inlayed 2 copper blades into the inside edge of the payload body tube. I put the mains shock cord on the nose cone and then matted the 2 halves. It is 80" long and weighs 66 ounces without chutes and protectors and paint. Should have a final weight between 75 and 80 ounces. There is a lot of wing area. Yesterday I cut the wing and tail slots. I use my Dremel with a cutoff wheel to make the cuts. 3 slots cut in a minute or two. I assembled the motor mount and epoxied it into place with JB Kwick Weld. And installed rail buttons. I attached the wings and tail with the Kwick Weld too. I used a fin jig to hold the wings and tail in place. Then did the external filets on the wings and tail, then tacked the T tail on with the Kwick Weld. After that was internal filets and an epoxy dam on the aft side of the forward centering ring. When that had set I put external filets on the T tail. So after I put the under wing tubes/pods on it will be ready for primer. I think I'm going to have a long wait before I get a chance to paint. Yesterday was a fine day. High about 70, sunny and no wind. Today we have a high wind advisory. The wind was blowing 20 to 30 mph steady. With gusts forecast to 70 mph. There was so much dirt in the air it looked like twilight and visibility was down to about half a mile. Then it rained mud. The forecast for the next ten days doesn't look much better. Today I also had my car detailed. Cost $200. It was a bargain. All those trips out on the lake bed had left a lot of dust inside. He clayed the paint etc. And we get weather like this. At least I got it home before it started raining mud. But the rain did clear the air. So here are the pictures.20211010_135137[1270].jpg20211010_132205[1271].jpg20211010_160911[1269].jpg20211010_192845[1288].jpg20211010_193047[1286].jpg20211010_215821[1285].jpg20211011_000550[1284].jpg20211011_000610[1283].jpg20211011_232646[1289].jpg
 
Yesterday I continued my HPR scratch build, of my 4 inch Pathfinder. I did my third interior fillet and I started to reinforce the bonding between find tabs and motor mount tube with a sheet of 195 gsm glass fibre. As first time I am happy with the results. I added 10% glass micro fibres to the resin for the fillet to improve adhesion and strength and to avoid the dry bond. For the glass fibre layer just resin.

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Baby Bertha build. Got the first color on the fins. Going with the same Baby Bertha color pattern, but using red and yellow vs. black and white. I'm very happy with how smooth the finish is :)
 

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Weather here has been wet so I can't get any painting done outside on the larger rockets so I decided I wanted to do something simple. This is exactly why I keep these rockets around. Of course I can't just build it stock as that would be too easy.

How to make a simple Cadet build complicated. Decided I wanted to used the tail nozzle that is included in the kit. The instructions tell you to scrap this piece. Using the nozzle required moving the motor 1/2" to the rear. This required .30oz of nose weight to be added to bring CG back into spec. Scrapped the stock rings for the launch lug. Added Kevlar leader and elastic shock cord. Reinforced the body tube with CA and painted the entire rocket with various Krylon paints. Trimmed the decals to remove the excess around the edges.

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Overall I'm pretty happy with a one day build.

Now if it would just stop raining...!!
 
Weather here has been wet so I can't get any painting done outside on the larger rockets so I decided I wanted to do something simple. This is exactly why I keep these rockets around. Of course I can't just build it stock as that would be too easy.

How to make a simple Cadet build complicated. Decided I wanted to used the tail nozzle that is included in the kit. The instructions tell you to scrap this piece. Using the nozzle required moving the motor 1/2" to the rear. This required .30oz of nose weight to be added to bring CG back into spec. Scrapped the stock rings for the launch lug. Added Kevlar leader and elastic shock cord. Reinforced the body tube with CA and painted the entire rocket with various Krylon paints. Trimmed the decals to remove the excess around the edges.

View attachment 485352View attachment 485353View attachment 485354View attachment 485355View attachment 485356View attachment 485357View attachment 485358

Overall I'm pretty happy with a one day build.

Now if it would just stop raining...!!

Nice work! We need the rain though :)

I've started a goony-like(ish) Solar Warrior with a Baby Bertha kit. Rain makes us do crazy things, I guess. Fins are papered and pressing at the moment.
 

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The Tripoli Records Committee posted my new G record: 10,093ft on a G150. That was over 3 years in the making & was such a cool flight to see. Perfect weather and the perfect launch site. I'm really happy it broke 10k. Huge thanks to Tripoli Colorado and everyone there for the great support & camaraderie! Also, thanks to my family for going on the 2,500 mile road trip with me!!
First and foremost, congratulations. Second, holy crap! Third, driving 2500 miles to launch from thin air seems a little like putting your thumb on the scale. Just a little, there's no real reason that Coloradans should have a built-in advantage.

Perfect launch and ascent, but broke a shock cord upon drogue deployment, so the booster and payload sections descended separately under their own chutes.
Both pieces successfully retrieved, I hope? Without (further) damage?

Weather here has been wet so I can't get any painting done outside on the larger rockets so I decided I wanted to do something simple. This is exactly why I keep these rockets around. Of course I can't just build it stock as that would be too easy.

How to make a simple Cadet build complicated. Decided I wanted to used the tail nozzle that is included in the kit...
View attachment 485358
The nozzle looks great there. The silver paint is the ideal choice.
 
I flew my Arcie II this morning.

I'm in the middle of a rear-ejection project to cure Red Barrons. I designed and 3D printed these Y-couplers that actually are U-vented. The streamer or chute should blow out backwards from the side-tube. I wanted something simpler than core eject or doing a lot of cutting and assembly like the out Estes Trident or "Bident".
 
I salvaged the Whistle Pod rocket. Cut the fin can off and added a new body tube with a coupler. I think the reason it was a lawn dart was because the ejection charge of the motor wasn't enough to break the 2 shear pins. It flew on a G80 IIRC. This time I will use 1 shear pin and enhance the ejection charge. Other people heard the whistle but I didn't. The people that heard it were father away from the rocket than I was.
 
First and foremost, congratulations. Second, holy crap! Third, driving 2500 miles to launch from thin air seems a little like putting your thumb on the scale. Just a little, there's no real reason that Coloradans should have a built-in advantage.
Those are the rules, so that's the way it is. Everyone doing standard day corrections is one other way to attack it, but it's almost impossible to get accurate atmosphere measurements unless you task NOAA. There are a million variables for how a rocket performs. Tripoli altitude records are based on AGL...high altitude works better because rocket motors make more thrust and rockets have less drag at high altitude. Road trip!
 
After I fixed the Whistle Pod rocket I put the underwing tubes on my current project the rocket plane. Went over to BMS to pick up an order and chatted with Bill about my Mustang. I also got the screw switches and battery holders from Missile Works I ordered. Which brings me to a question. On the screw switch which side is up? Is it the side that's raised or the side that is inset? And what is the orange disk for?
 
Tripoli altitude records are based on AGL...high altitude works better because rocket motors make more thrust and rockets have less drag at high altitude. Road trip!
Yes, that was my point as well. High altitude launch leads to better performance AGL. If the record were for ASL then there's be no records set outside of the Himalayas.
 
After I fixed the Whistle Pod rocket I put the underwing tubes on my current project the rocket plane. Went over to BMS to pick up an order and chatted with Bill about my Mustang. I also got the screw switches and battery holders from Missile Works I ordered. Which brings me to a question. On the screw switch which side is up? Is it the side that's raised or the side that is inset? And what is the orange disk for?

The inset side. The screw goes in that side. The bottom of the switch has the nut with the little insulator disc. I’ve got a couple where that disc fell off. Work just fine. I really think the main reason they are on the switch is to make you put the screw in from the correct side. 😉
 
I'm finishing up one of ducted rear eject pop-pods. I finally skinned the wings for my Strato-Blaster, The hold up was that I thought it was obechi skin that had to be epoxied on. Then I found out it was just balsa that needed some Super 77. They're now setting up under a couple of books on the history of art. All those plush nudes from Willingdorf to Flemish should weigh them down but good!
 
Baby Bertha build. First layer of red paint for the main body of the rocket. I'm not sure how well the yellow accents on the fins will be protected. I used painters tape but not too confident it will do a good job. I hope it does.
 

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Baby Bertha build. First layer of red paint for the main body of the rocket. I'm not sure how well the yellow accents on the fins will be protected. I used painters tape but not too confident it will do a good job. I hope it does.
Did you burnish the tape down firmly? It should do pretty well; this is what it's made for, after all.

There's a trick that's been going around for some years, that I've had occasion to wish I had used. :facepalm: Once tape is applied, spray the base color or clear over the edges. If that bleeds it doesn't matter, and it seals the edge so the next coat, the new color, can't bleed under. Of course, this does require another round of drying time.
 
Did you burnish the tape down firmly? It should do pretty well; this is what it's made for, after all.

There's a trick that's been going around for some years, that I've had occasion to wish I had used. :facepalm: Once tape is applied, spray the base color or clear over the edges. If that bleeds it doesn't matter, and it seals the edge so the next coat, the new color, can't bleed under. Of course, this does require another round of drying time.

Well ya I did my best to put the tape down firmly. I don't remember how old it is though so maybe I need a fresh role of tape.
 
Successfully installed motor mounts in the Goony Solar Warrior and Kraken Klone projects, meaning, I put the mount in the correct end of the tube; on both of them! Also didn't epoxy the kevlar to the inside of the BT. Probably should stop while I'm ahead here...
 
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