Which version is that? Definitely earlier than any I own...
Which version is that? Definitely earlier than any I own...
No dates of any kind on the cover or inside of the instructions. Estes web page details that the 1988 kit is 43" tall and flies to 100' on a D12-3. That's what the box spec's say.Check the instructions for a copyright date. EST2001 is how they normally name their kits. I have the EST1969 (most recent) and EST2157 (few years ago) Sat V kits
Today I ordered more than $70 worth of BT-19
Where's that head-scratching emoji when you need it?
I went through the old catalogs, In those the first appearance of NO.2001 is 1988. In 1993 it becomes EST.2001. It is gone in 1995, and returns in 2011 as 2157. None have a picture of the box. So somewhere between 1988 and 1995, if the NO. designation matters then it's 1993 through 1995. 1994 was the 25th Anniversary edition.No dates of any kind on the cover or inside of the instructions. Estes web page details that the 1988 kit is 43" tall and flies to 100' on a D12-3. That's what the box spec's say.View attachment 458873
ThanksI went through the old catalogs, In those the first appearance of NO.2001 is 1988. In 1993 it becomes EST.2001. It is gone in 1995, and returns in 2011 as 2157. None have a picture of the box. So somewhere between 1988 and 1995, if the NO. designation matters then it's 1993 through 1995. 1994 was the 25th Anniversary edition.
Put up 3D printed wall hangers for my Alien Interceptor. I kinda like it!
Thank you so much - I appreciate it!I really love that paint job. Just beautiful.
Baby Daddy is not really a thing (outside of a downscale) like Big Daddy is. Now, Baby Momma...Got a "Baby Daddy" (BT-60) project moving...
You can always adapt down, but you can't adapt up. (A8 to C6 over and over, then D12 when you get tired of it?)Motor mount built (24mm; yeah, much overkill)...
Baby Daddy is not really a thing (outside of a downscale) like Big Daddy is. Now, Baby Momma...You can always adapt down, but you can't adapt up. (A8 to C6 over and over, then D12 when you get tired of it?)
If it were me, I'd tell the print shop how they screwed up. If they agree to do it over for free, give me an email address to send the file, and mail me the product, then I'd give them another chance. If not, I'd make sure they know just why they've lost my business.Swore just a little when I got back from the print shop with test wraps for the Main Beach rocket.
Despite careful measurements, made by me, and careful instructions to the print shop of "Do not scale this file; print at 100%", the wraps have been scaled and are about 4.7 mm out on width.
Okay, no biggie just print them again. The print shop is a 45 minute round trip and I have farm work to do.
So... the proto is going to look a little weird/ugly/unfinished.
And I'll use a different print shop for the kit wraps.
Which is why I cringe at the thought of shaping balsa with a Dremel. It's only balsa, and not really thick; sand paper will do the whole job just fine. 120 or 180 grit to start if there's really a lot to remove. The amount that a klutz like me should leave to finish up with sandpaper is more than the starting thickness for fins like that.It should go without saying, but I should add that if you also try to do make tapers like the ones above with a Dremel, be very careful. the couple of leading edge nicks I had to fix were caused by the Dremel slipping - even at minimum speed it will chew through balsa like it's not even there.
Which is why I cringe at the thought of shaping balsa with a Dremel. It's only balsa, and not really thick; sand paper will do the whole job just fine. 120 or 180 grit to start if there's really a lot to remove. The amount that a klutz like me should leave to finish up with sandpaper is more than the starting thickness for fins like that.
And I'm not trying to say you shouldn't. I wouldn't, and I'll continue to cringe when I read about others doing so.
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