What did you do rocket wise today?

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July 4th Pandemic Rocket on Aerotech E30-7T Motor. This is a nice flight. With a 4k action camera on board, flying to 793 feet, it was a beautiful flight. Especially the descent, gracefully swirling under chute.
#Rocket #Pandemic #July4th #Aerotech
 
I worked on my Trivecta 318 and ordered some a nosecone ebay adapter with some nuts and bolts to round out my CIJ 2020 project.
 
Finished up the external motor mount for the Cherokee-H, worked a bit on the baffle and rear centering ring to add rail button backer blocks. Cut a 1/4” length of 3” tubing to use as a body tube doubler to be mounted after the rear centering ring goes on. The Cherokee has no trailing fin tips and will be landing on the Estes motor retainer/the rear of the body tube so a little reinforcement with only a small weight penalty seems reasonable. The fin can thus far (baffle, body tube, etc) is under 4 oz. The target weight is under 10 ounces fully assembled and ready to rock. Motor not included...which will be an H268R.

Saw @Big_Red_Daddy ’s Cherokee-H fly on that motor earlier this year and it was an ~impressive~ boost.

moar powr! ooo! ooo!

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Let me know how you like RS10 please. The instructions for installing it seemed scary, with talk of not being able to go go back, and having to get a new licence key, and me not having an internet connection at home. I downloaded the install file to my phone and could move it over, but I don't know if I should.
 
Today I scouted 2 fields where I got permission from the farmers to fly. The first farmer was extremely nice to me. I asked about other fields around that would be big and cut and he called a second farmer that he knew on my behalf to make it easier for me to get his permission! Talk about above and beyond! Farmers around here are pretty nice :)

totally awesome!!
 
Let me know how you like RS10 please. The instructions for installing it seemed scary, with talk of not being able to go go back, and having to get a new licence key, and me not having an internet connection at home. I downloaded the install file to my phone and could move it over, but I don't know if I should.
I really like the new motor processing, as it has a way updated database, and it will run sims to identify safe/recommended motors.
 
I finished the paint job on 3 rockets and they are ready for decals. Well, almost. The mini on the left needs a little touch up to the silver band below the nosecone.

From the left, Wildman "Eagle Child" mini. (Eagle Claw without the tailcone) This will be named Alex T-15 after my son and the year he was born. He's been playing with this rocket a lot, it already has some hangar rash and we haven't launched it yet.

In the middle, Mach 1 Saberhawk. BT-55 Body, 24mm Motor Mount. Should be an excellent park flyer.

On the right, Mach 1 Haymaker. BT-50 Body, 18mm Motors. This will be fun to fly on QJets.

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Dry-fit the Cherokee-H. Fortunately, my fins weren't warped. Kinda disappointed that I couldn't get it in 38mm, though. I was trying to stick with all Loki hardware. C'est la vie. Just bought a Dr. Rockets 29/180 casing, so I'll be good to go with that. Still no HAZMAT fee for those motors.
 
Just shortened the payload bay for my Cherokee-H by 10 in. so it would be scale to the original Cherokee-D. Used a tube-cutting jig that I designed in TinkerCAD and 3D printed. (I'll provide the .STL file in the 3D printing forum.)
 
Epoxied my externally built motor mount into the Cherokee-H aft body tube so I now have a fin can.

I used 30 minute epoxy which went off at minute 12 or so as the temp in the garage this evening was 92 degrees but I was prepared for that. My reach-down-inside tools were a big help in applying a fillet on the forward centering ring to create a dam to prevent the motor mount from flying through the rocket.

Up next, internal fillets in the fin can, rear centering ring, and aft body tube doubler to reinforce the body tube against hard landings. At the other end I need to finish up the baffle at the tube break so I can drill for the rail buttons. Lately I’ve been locating the forward button at or just ahead of the CG and place a backer block in the baffle for the rail button to match the block on the rear centering ring. Measure twice and drill each hole once.

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Baffle marked for alignment, backer block on rear centering ring.

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Backer block inside baffle in line with external marks.

Edit: Blocks are cut from basswood (?) square stock...easy to shape to match body tube wall.
 
I am setting up my ebay for "Lead Sled" for the 4th time I think. I picked up a MW RRC2x and have a couple MW rrc2+ altimeter's now and I want to start using the screw switch in accordance to the new rules on switches for energetics. I staked the end of the screw so it will not back out of the nut and I can sinch the screw in the off position. I also made the access hole a lot bigger to make getting to the screws easier.

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I decided to attempt making rocket candy. If these kind of work I will setup for making 29mm and 38mm motors. These are my first shot at 24mm and 29mm.

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~John
 
Let me know how you like RS10 please. The instructions for installing it seemed scary, with talk of not being able to go go back, and having to get a new licence key, and me not having an internet connection at home. I downloaded the install file to my phone and could move it over, but I don't know if I should.

Not sure of your situation, but the install and new access key was easy to do... I will miss RocSim 9, but according to the video, 10 fixes most of the bugs that 9 had.

Ordered a Quest Navaho and Quest Harpoon with plans to upscale both of them. Probably in 2.6" diameter.

Love the Navajo AGM from Quest; upscaling to 2.6 would be sweet!
 
Return to Flight!

My club held its first launch of the year, complete with masks and social distancing.
  • I had perfect flights of Office Supplies and a Big Daddy, both on D12-3s.
  • The maiden flight of my Park Flyer Magnum on a G74-6W went wildly out of control a split second after leaving the rod. The consensus on the field is that nozzle became partially blocked resulting in vectored thrust. It suffered minor damage and will fly again.
  • My Quest T-201 (I forget the model's actual name, but T-201 is its tail number) had a beautiful up on a D21-7. Ejection occured about when it should. Then the elastic snapped. The nose cone was under the 'chute and went far, far away. The airframe started down flat and slow, but then remembered that is supposed to be stable and ended up taking a pretty good core sample. It will not be repaired.PSX_20200711_150713.jpg
  • When the rain started, our stuff was under a canopy, and was mostly OK. But Office Supplies, which is unpainted cardboard, got wet enough to suffer a bit of delamination around the top lip of the airframe and on one of the decals. It's probably repairable.
We'll be coming back tomorrow for more.
 
Sanded the V2 and will shoot another coat of primer tomorrow. Painted the Swift upscale with Rustoleum Fluorescent Orange; paint dries and sands like the pastels my sister used in art class, powdery. Just shot the second coat of poly and set aside to bake in the shed for a couple of days. Will start cutting the masking tape tonight for the V2 camo
 
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