rharshberger
Well-Known Member
It can be done with tubular kevlar, same method as parachute cord (550 cord).
What did you do rocket wise today?
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I watched it the other day also. Homer's dad was so similar to my Dad that the movie really hit home. Sometime this week I'll be going over to my 91 year old friends lake home & watch the movie with him.
Mick Kelly
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Here you go Greg:
Step 1: Layout and loop back around 5 or 6 inches of tubular Kevlar and tape the end to a hard point
Step 2: At the bend use a tool to insert into the tubular Kevlar to open a hole
Step 3: Start working the taped end into the opening you have made
Step 4: Continue pushing the taped end into the opening using the red tool or a wooden dowel.
Step 5: Finish feeding the remainder of the Kevlar into the loop
Step 1: Layout and loop back around 5 or 6 inches of tubular Kevlar and tape the end to a hard point
Step 2: At the bend use a tool to insert into the tubular Kevlar to open a hole
Step 3: Start working the taped end into the opening you have made
Step 4: Continue pushing the taped end into the opening using the red tool or a wooden dowel.
Step 5: Finish feeding the remainder of the Kevlar into the loop
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rharshberger
Well-Known Member
The part that looks like the transition is a liner that will get epoxied into the transition then I will be able to rebuild the shoulder where the slanted section was ( or not), the bulkplates are sized for each end to fit in the tube and should act as part of the shoulder.
NateB
Well-Known Member
Today I am working on the internal fillets on my Punisher and some other odds and ends on some other kits laying around to use the excess epoxy.
Mick, thanks. A question though. Does the Kevlar need to be sewn or is thr friction under pressure enough that it won't slide?
Mick Kelly
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No sewing necessary. You can make it longer if you want. Once assembled the finger trap is self tightening, the harder you pull the tighter the tubular Kevlar gets. So once you include the eyebolt, something that the trap can pull against the tighter it gets on it's own and it will not slide out.
o1d_dude
'I battle gravity'
Similar to the problem with the Big Daddy nose cone. Removing the slanted portion doesn’t leave a lot of shoulder to work with.
Mick, I made a PDF out of your instructions & photos.
Mick Kelly
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That's great that you put that into an easily available format. That should make it easy for those wanting to use this method.
heada
Well-Known Member
Marked all the tubes for my USR Micro-Sentra SRB. Gotta love strap-on boosters with ducted ejection paths.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Uh well im in the crowd of never...yet....
Honestly, it was a good, small, well-made movie, with very good performances as expected from very good actors. But it was nothing earth-shattering, and I don't expect to want to see it again.
If this were Twitter I would say "RIP my mentions" right about now.
Rich, watch it, you'll love it.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Rich, watch it, you'll love it.
I'm sure I will, however I don't watch hardly anything other than historical docu's mainly on military history and some science etc. Partially due to the fact that my television access is restricted due to a 5, 9, and 11 year old and not desiring to give them unlimited TV time so its after they go to bed for me.
It is historical, pretty much, based on reality. There is nothing in the movie that is offensive.
Outside of rocketry you would probably find this "knot" called a "Long Bury Splice":
https://www.animatedknots.com/long-bury-splice-knot
Here's an old thread
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/tying-tk.93959/
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Started building "The Sled"..
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Wasn't worried about it being "safe", just my kids wouldn't watch it without the whining.....
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Finished up printing parts for my Ventris/Argent Alitmeter Bay and other than redesigning and reprinting the larger bulkplate the design works as intended, the altimeter is a Eggtimer Quark one of my goto non-recording altimeters. Due to the tight space the sled instead of using my modular altimeter mounts and modular battery box are designed into the main part of the sled. The black well nut in the bulkplates are for the ematch wires to pass through, not installed yet are the eyebolts and the charge wells (two remaining open holes in the bulkplates).
Finally started to put the av-bay together for Miss Riley, except for drilling the holes in the coupler, I got it done. Pics to follow after I do get my drill on.
Found some cores from clingwrap rolls, 2 larger and one that's a slide fit inside the others. A roll-on deodorant cap and some Open Rocket time later... The Gladwinder.
Some mass override here and there to work on, but a nice cheap project.
Some mass override here and there to work on, but a nice cheap project.
Last edited:
Last night: finished up the second SDI vintage build from EBay.
The Phalanx.
Interesting teflon ring lock for motor retention.
![0325200637[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/rocketryforum/data/attachments/327/327072-13494135db456e10dcd9967fe5db35ab.jpg "0325200637[1].jpg")
![0325200905[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/rocketryforum/data/attachments/327/327073-e636470994283c57444a25d9b857cce0.jpg "0325200905[1].jpg")
2 down, 3 to go. All the time in the world.
The Phalanx.
Interesting teflon ring lock for motor retention.
2 down, 3 to go. All the time in the world.
Charles_McG
Ciderwright
Work progresses on my Talos Terrier Something. Printing up a storm.
(I hate not having the TRF app anymore)
Glued fins on Saturn V. It's starting to look like the real thing. Worked on F1 engines - glued string to nozzles. This was an interesting exercise in avoiding seriously gluing fingers together.
Ordered Nike Smoke and stomp rocket from Estes spring sale.
Ordered Nike Smoke and stomp rocket from Estes spring sale.
Hey, that is super interesting. Care to show another picture or two illustrating how it actually works?
You and me and plenty of others.
OK. L shaped slots are laser cut into the aft of the rocket. Install motor flush to the bulkhead and install teflon ring in back. Twist to hold in position. I've read a couple of flight reviews of SDI kits that use this method as well as Chris M's build and flight of an SDI kit (Zanadune?) Apparently the ejection gasses can leak past the front of the motor and bulkhead and exit through the rear, resulting in the recovery gear not deploying. So I may have to tweak this, depending on whether I get the same results on the maidens.
The Gyro Nomo uses the same system. The ring however was missing from the bag.
SDI Vector, Avenger, and Vr-T-Go coming up soon.
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