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Discussion in 'The Watering Hole' started by BeerorKid, Jan 31, 2013.
Nice steam punk look!
Big fan of Createx. Ace Primer Grey, Createx auto-air base coats and Candy 02/metalics/pearls for the details/artwork. An automotive topcoat is used. I think Createx has a mural topcoat that might work as well.
Wrapped some fins for a Semroc X-23. Build was going great until two things happened: 1) I realized that the laser-cut through-the-tube fin slots are misaligned (two are fine, but the third is 1/8" farther up the tube) and 2) when papering a fin, I sliced the fin tab right off the fin. Oh well, that is what wood glue is for.
Worked on two rockets yesterday. Long ago I lost the payload section of an Estes Solar Flare, and recently got around to replacing it. The tube and coupler came from Apogee, and a replacement nose cone I already had on hand. Last week I had glued bulkheads into both ends of the coupler and found it was much too tight on the body tube end. So yesterday was a bunch of sanding. I came uncomfortably close to sanding through the paper, so I cut off the other end bulkhead to add a large fillet that would tie the bulkhead to more tube up the inside, and applied thin CA to strengthen the paper from the outside. Then back to sanding, if only to make it smooth after the CA. Finally my friend checked and pointed out to me that there was a small inward bulge in the top of the body tube; I sanded that down and finally had a good fit. Then glued the bother end's bulkhead back in, after peeling and sanding away the paper and glue.
Sand, sand, sand, sand.
Sand, sand, sand, sand.
Love to sand! I've got to sand.
Love to sand, I've got to Sand, sand, sand, sand.
I also noticed a small dent in the body tube a few inches down from the top, so pushed a coupler down. I didn't even bother gluing it and I'm sure it'll be fine.
Then I got builder's go fever and started on the Park Flyer Magnum I got from Secret Santa. Now, I had read the instructions when I opened it on Christmas morning, but when the fever took me I failed to re-read them. I assembled the motor mount including the AeroPack retainer that I've added, installed it (about a quarter inch back from the designed position in order to accommodate the retainer) and installed the fins. And then I realized that I'd failed to attach the shock cord to the motor mount through the forward CR as instructed. D'OH!!!!
I have a recovery plan. I'll cut a third centering ring to serve as a shock cord anchor, cut the body tube a little above the motor mount, then install the cord, anchor, and a coupler to put it back together.
The Magnum's construction is all with JB Weld, including the fin fillets. They're structurally adequate, but ugly. I'll add cosmetic fillets with the 3M light weight spackle plus primer that I like so well.
I just renewed my NAR membership for another 3 years
I "Tried" to create a 2 stage cluster (2 engine) rocket similar to the Orion in Open Rocket. But I couldn't figure out how to attach 2 body tubes together...
We can talk you through that. Start a new thread with details.
Read --->>> OpenRocket FAQ - How do I create a clustered rocket?
Read --->>> OpenRocket FAQ - How do I create a staged rocket?
It looks like I want to make "Pods" whcih open rocket doesn't support:
How do I create external pods to the rocket?
External pods are currently not supported by OpenRocket. This feature has been considered, but it requires more knowledge of how to reliably simulate such configurations. If you know about such simulation or would like to implement it, please contact us!
Note that even though inner tubes can be displaced outside of the body tube, they will not affect the aerodynamics of the rocket. This can provide a visual clue of what such a rocket would look like, but does not provide simulation accuracy. Similarly, extremely thick fins are still considered as fins, and won't likely produce reliable results.
I wanted to make this Orion Rocket but with only 2 engines (outside pods)
Thanks for the help, though.
1) you would never fly a rocket like that with only outer two motors, for safety reasons
2) it is true that you cannot model that rocket in OR presently.
Thanks everyone for posting all the pictures up of your projects, it helps the time go by especially this weekend when I was in the hospital for a large blood clot in my right lung.
Get Well soon! Maybe this will make you laugh. I looked for your name and thought it was Brian Fog. I'm a really bad speller and sometimes spell Brian, Brain. One time at work I did just that to someone and the person corrected me in front of a bunch of others.
Doing some electronics fitting to new sled designs, brainstorming for a 54mm minimum diameter shot with Loki power. Just a few more pieces to design before I can bolt it all up and see how much space I have left. The sleds will be back to back with batteries on the center line. Tricky part will be keeping all of the magnetic switches far enough from each other to turn them on individually. Since the Featherweight tracker doesn't have pyros, he may just get hard wired on at the bench before RSO and eliminate one switch circuit.
Discovered that one round of Halo Reach is the perfect amount of time to let TBII set before picking it up and doing another bead
That looks yummy.
Fiesta is my favorite currently. You may kill me when I'm stuck with a pistol and some other crap combo, but I'll just come back with a shotgun and spartan-laser
Br or bmr were my favorites. I havent played reach in ages.
Master Chief Collection (MCC) is on Steam! Reach went live a couple months ago, and they'll be patching in Halo, H2, H3, ODST, and H4 in the "~near" future. (I think 1 and 2 are the anniversary editions)
Eek! Since you're not dead I guess it's relatively OK.
Cut some tubes for a future build.
Your Italics is stuck.
Nicely done. In the future this could also be an effective fix for whenever I put a fin on crooked, which is depressingly often.
Did you see that the NAR TSO certification now includes training on how to spot deep-fakes when checking stability in the field?
Sunday I started reading "Large and Dangerous Rocket Ships" Kindle version. It was only $4 after the $5 first time purchase coupon from Amazon. Amazing stuff "in dat dar book..."
Kuririn, I looked at the Arapahoe E on the Squirrel Works website. I had a couple of questions about motors for it & emailed them. I'd like to use 24mm Aerotech or Quest motors with a threaded motor retainer ring and asked if that could be done considering it is a boattail. They responded "It's our policy not to recommend modifications to our kits.."
Understandable, but my question is can it be done? Has anyone else done it?
It's an understandable policy to not even answer "Can it be done?" If you build stock and causes a problem, that's on them. If you modify and it causes a problem, that's on you. If you ask and they say it's OK, or it should work, or any such thing, then it muddies the waters, potentially exposing them to liability.
I haven't don it or tried to. I haven't seen the kit. So I'm no help in answering your actual question.
what you might do is ask Squirrel works if they's send you the kit's instructions (probably a softcopy). You could use that to judge the fit for yourself. An OR or RS file would be even better, as it would let you evaluate the CG shift and effect on stability.
This thread looks like somebody has one, and like it was attached, but it's not attached now. Maybe reach out to the people who posted.
I would not recommend this, as the answer will most certainly be “no”. I have asked in the past (about other kits). He is very protective of his IP, presumably out of fear of cloners.
Better to ask someone who has the kit.
Separate names with a comma.