I like the idea of slipping the shrink wrap over the battery leads. I'll have to use that, thanks. Any other tips n' tricks you'd like to pass along? I've got a way to go with the Quantum (mounting the optoisolators now) then a Quark to build after that. Just got my eyeglass prescription updated, so that's a big plus.
I did get one Quark built previously. Had an embarrassing glitch with it on first use but has flown successfully twice since then. I'm using a Hakko 650 iron with the fine tip which seems to work well.
I just ordered some tips for my old Weller TC201. One of them is an 800 degree very small, so a rapid transfer of heat but not a great deal of total heat. Is that a good choice? I have no experience soldering SMT components, but a lot with other stuff, and I've always liked this tip for small sensitive items.Some fine tip tweezers and a hot iron (650-700).
Yes. I notice when I put on a very fine conical tip, I do require more heat. I find this to be more true with my older Weller 51 at home. The Weller wx1 that I use at work is digitally controlled and holds temperature much better.I just ordered some tips for my old Weller TC201. One of them is an 800 degree very small, so a rapid transfer of heat but not a great deal of total heat. Is that a good choice? I have no experience soldering SMT components, but a lot with other stuff, and I've always liked this tip for small sensitive items.
Many years ago, Estes sold a "C" rail. A standard lug glued to a dowel stand-off would slide inside the rail, so you could use both the rail or a rod with that set up. I'll try and find some pics.
Tweezer technique is the primary skill IMHO.Some fine tip tweezers and a hot iron (650-700).
I bought this set of tweezers and they are great!Tweezer technique is the primary skill IMHO.
650-700degF (343-371degC) for soldering small parts? What is the rationale behind that. Normal lead solder melts at 183C. You need about 30C more to form the intermetallic bonds. You should not need more than 270C (530F) on a bad day to solder a PCB. The glass transition temperature of the FR4 is around 140C. Higher temperatures just melt the substrate and also weaken the adhesive that holds the tracks and pads onto the laminate. Bad idea to give that a hard time with high temperatures. Higher temperatures also give thicker intermetallic bonds which are more brittle. A good iron and/or as large a tip (chisel, not conical) as you can get away with assists with heat transfer, rather than higher temperature. Iron technique is also important. A fast joint (by using high temperature) is not a good joint.
Hey everyone, So after being away from rockets for like 45 years I stumbled back into it after helping my 9 year old with his Cub Scout project.Saw a thread on YORF where they discussed rockets by Pitsco and Estes where you have to build your own body tube and remembered I had this in the build pile:
View attachment 393500
So of course I had to build it.
Cardboard mandrel for shaping body tube:
View attachment 393501
View attachment 393502
Recovery gear rigged to Jadebox's method I learned today:
View attachment 393503
Cardboard fins cut out and aligned and tacked on:
View attachment 393504
Fins and launch lug filleted, motor mount glued in:
View attachment 393505
The tube was constructed by taking a piece of regular copy paper and convolutely gluing it to itself on the mandrel, then taking one strip of the orange wrap, wetting the adhesive backing with a damp sponge, and doing a right hand spiral, butting the seams together. Follow with a second piece doing a left hand spiral.
My kind of rocket. No filling, sanding, primer or paint.
An interesting build exercise, but I see why this was probably not a big seller.
More of a niche product for the educational sector.
Easier to just sub a bt-50 tube.
I can cut quite a few bt-50 couplers from the mandrel though. I think it's long coupler tubing.
Anyway the discussion thread is here:
hcmbanjo's build thread is here:
AC Supply still sells this:
Thanks. Getting it back is the key phrase. I lost the first one on an H54 upper staged flight where the tracker failed and I flew anyway.Excellent build technique. This thing is practically fool proof. You could fly it on just about any motor that would fit, if you can get it back that is.