What did you do rocket wise today?

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I have always ran the match wires directly to the altimeter's terminals. I do that thru a drilled hole in the bulkhead that I cover with either tub and tile sealer or silicone sealer.
Nothing at all wrong with this (says the guy who has done this only in his head). If one wants to, one can use other methods that lend themselves more easily to disassembly and reassembly.

Put a screw through the bulkhead, with washers and a nut. The wire to the altimeter goes under the screw head with another washer (or use a ring terminal) and that much is semi-permanent. Then the wire to the e-match is attached with two more washers and a wing nut.
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I have been known to overthink things every now and then on rare occasions.
 
Ordered a 3' Ramjet kit from Dragon Rocketry today. I built and flew a clone of the original Estes kit earlier this year and am hoping to have as great a flight with the 3" rocket as I did with the clone. And I have a copy of the decal sheet saved as a SVG file so I can upscale them for the 3" kit.View attachment 681458
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Nothing at all wrong with this (says the guy who has done this only in his head). If one wants to, one can use other methods that lend themselves more easily to disassembly and reassembly.

Put a screw through the bulkhead, with washers and a nut. The wire to the altimeter goes under the screw head with another washer (or use a ring terminal) and that much is semi-permanent. Then the wire to the e-match is attached with two more washers and a wing nut.
View attachment 681792
I have been known to overthink things every now and then on rare occasions.

That's not overthinking, IMO. It's my standard practice, and I think easier to maintain than writing directly to the altimeter.
 
Nothing at all wrong with this (says the guy who has done this only in his head). If one wants to, one can use other methods that lend themselves more easily to disassembly and reassembly.

Put a screw through the bulkhead, with washers and a nut. The wire to the altimeter goes under the screw head with another washer (or use a ring terminal) and that much is semi-permanent. Then the wire to the e-match is attached with two more washers and a wing nut.
View attachment 681792
I have been known to overthink things every now and then on rare occasions.

It is just another more Heavy Duty terminal block, 'not that there is anything wrong with that' 🤣

1733408159755.png
 
Put a screw through the bulkhead, with washers and a nut. The wire to the altimeter goes under the screw head with another washer (or use a ring terminal) and that much is semi-permanent. Then the wire to the e-match is attached with two more washers and a wing nut.
View attachment 681792
I have been known to overthink things every now and then on rare occasions.
That's quite similar to how I'm setting up my latest avbay.
 
I have always ran the match wires directly to the altimeter's terminals. I do that thru a drilled hole in the bulkhead that I cover with either tub and tile sealer or silicone sealer. I can always pull it off later and put new down, it's not glue. My Big Bee RDF 432mhz transmitter antenna [wire] in the 3" Av-bay I posted yesterday goes thru such a sealed hole as well.
I have done the same with a slight modification. Found some teflon-insulated wire a bit smaller in diameter than the e-match wire. Run teflon-wire thru a drilled hole, add silicone, allow silicone to cure for a few days, pull teflon-wire out. Gave holes that sealed perfectly when I ran ematch wire thru it. No need to redo the silicone unless it became sufficiently ruined from the ejection charge. (Never did.)
 
Nothing at all wrong with this (says the guy who has done this only in his head). If one wants to, one can use other methods that lend themselves more easily to disassembly and reassembly.

Put a screw through the bulkhead, with washers and a nut. The wire to the altimeter goes under the screw head with another washer (or use a ring terminal) and that much is semi-permanent. Then the wire to the e-match is attached with two more washers and a wing nut.
View attachment 681792
I have been known to overthink things every now and then on rare occasions.
It's been done for many years with knurled finger nuts on the outside.
 
Stayed up late doing the last round of prep for the MDRA launch tomorrow (today, now). DD takes me forever to prep; I only managed to get one of those ready instead of my hoped for two.
 
Lots of CAD work on my 29mm minimum diameter. I've so far designed and ordered the payload av bay, bulkheads, a mag switch, and GPS tracker. Still need to design the nosecone bay for the tracker and get around to remaking the nosecone mold/nosecone.

I also sent off a 29mm 5:1 Von Karman nose cone for resin printing to use as a plug for an improved nosecone.

Successful day, all told!

Edit: Whoops, maybe not so successful. JLC are unhappy with making a nosecone, they're concerned it might be part of a weapon. Talking it through with them now. Outcome TBC.

Edit 2: I convinced them that the part is too small and light weight to be a weapon and pointed them at Estes website to show them what I'm building, so we're back on! What a roller-coaster.
 
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Edit: Whoops, maybe not so successful. JLC are unhappy with making a nosecone, they're concerned it might be part of a weapon. Talking it through with them now.
Tell them that #1 you can find someone else to print it and #2 if they get into printing rocket parts there are more of us who could use their services.
 
Tell them that #1 you can find someone else to print it and #2 if they get into printing rocket parts there are more of us who could use their services.
This is the first time I've ever had a hiccup with supply from JLC, and I use them a lot for both 3d printing and PCBs. They were happy enough once I explained what I was doing. It probably delayed the order by about 2 hours all up so I'm not too worried.

2x 150mm long 29mm 3d printed nose cones for USD $10 delivered. The price is hard to argue with. I have a cheap FDM printer, but it's not worth the hassle at those prices.
 
This is the first time I've ever had a hiccup with supply from JLC, and I use them a lot for both 3d printing and PCBs. They were happy enough once I explained what I was doing. It probably delayed the order by about 2 hours all up so I'm not too worried.

2x 150mm long 29mm 3d printed nose cones for USD $10 delivered. The price is hard to argue with. I have a cheap FDM printer, but it's not worth the hassle at those prices.

Is this who you are using?
https://jlcpcb.com/3d-printing?from=3DP
 
A couple things. I painted Big Bertha. There will be a yellow sticker going on the body tube probably today. I also made a coupler for my damaged Reverse Mosquito (RM) rocket. You can kind of see the RM and the little brown coupler in the pic with Bertha. I call it RM because the paint job is swapped and I had 3D printed a long pointy nosecone for it.
 

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You can kind of see the RM and the little brown coupler in the pic with Bertha. I call it RM because the paint job is swapped and I had 3D printed a long pointy nosecone for it.

That would be an "Anti-Matter Mosquito", like the Episode of Lost In Space; Anti-Matter Man 😀

My Friend in our club had a 4" upscale of an 'Anti-Matter' 220 Swift ; the mosquito with rectangular fins.
 
I helped set up and launched with NOVAAR at Great Meadow today. It was about 30 degrees but mostly sunny with very light winds at first. The winds picked up and were blowing towards part of the parking area so I quit after 3 successful launches. I didn't want one of my rockets damaging someone's car.
 
Ordered a couple of Pro Series II Optima’s, day 5 of the 12 days of Christmas from Estes. Might be a good dual deploy upgrade.

Try a Jolly Logic Chute Release instead. I use that with my Estes Partizon, about the same kit, different fins

Also, friction fit the top tube coupler, so you can make it shorter if you wish. My Partizon tubes are all friction fitted with masking tape on the couplers, and they worked fine on 2 I205 flights.

*I first did that because I had to ship the rocket hold for pickup at Los Wages FedEx to take out to Jean Dry Lake. But now I really like being able to change the size. I've flown it both ways a few times this year even.

On the Short Version an F15-6 will fly it just barely. It looks very slow realistic take off, like it is standing still. I did not use any heavy glues in building it. Without the top tube, it weights 14oz.
 
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