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At least it's going to get used...
What did you do rocket wise today?
- Thread starter BeerorKid
- Start date
is that 38mm?
Williamhimka
Well-Known Member
54mm WM Mach 2.
Wish me luck
Last edited:
boatgeek
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Looks fun!
williamhimka, is the black portion dry carbon?
Unboxed my WM Cherokee 98 to make sure all was good...and it was!!! Thanks @WILDMANRS !!
Williamhimka
Well-Known Member
Yep. The dim lighting may effect the way it looks in the photo a little bit…
Engineers ruler ensures perfect launch lug alignment. Buy one today!
DerRedMax
Well-Known Member
Applied filler and then sanded the Mac 54mm Blackfly. Ready for the final primer coat. Prepped several other rockets for painting.
After starting to plan my Red Glare flights this week, I had to get serious about what I can have ready before March 31. Tonight I tried to focus on things that have at least the potential to be done by then.
Repaired a section of 4" canvas tube that was damaged in shipping by cutting out the cracked area, inserting a short piece of coupler improvised from a shipping tube, and filling the gap with epoxy. This will be used to repair (again) my Mac Performance 4" Black Fly. I was hoping to just use some CW FG tubing I have on hand, but apparently it's slightly out of spec - ID is 3.89 and OD is 4.04 (extra thick!). I know I could sand it, but for now I'm going with the canvas. I am going to break the rocket in the middle now, zipperless style (though not quite built like that), with the nose cone screwed into the forward half of the airframe and the chute attached near the fin section of the airframe. This will definitely be flyable by my deadline.
Determined how much nose weight I need for my Boyce 2.6" Honest John with an I200W. Marked the launch shoe/rail guide lines. I've made the whole thing heavier so I don't trust the 3D printed harness attachment for the nose cone, so I thought through how I'm going to create a better anchor. I'm going to thread 1000lb Kevlar through a small hole in the mid-nose bulkhead and anchor that into the nose weight epoxy. This won't be finished in two months but it might be flyable.
Did another set of internal fillets on my Demon 5. Won't be done by Red Glare, but maybe I'll have the fin can wrapped up.
Repaired a section of 4" canvas tube that was damaged in shipping by cutting out the cracked area, inserting a short piece of coupler improvised from a shipping tube, and filling the gap with epoxy. This will be used to repair (again) my Mac Performance 4" Black Fly. I was hoping to just use some CW FG tubing I have on hand, but apparently it's slightly out of spec - ID is 3.89 and OD is 4.04 (extra thick!). I know I could sand it, but for now I'm going with the canvas. I am going to break the rocket in the middle now, zipperless style (though not quite built like that), with the nose cone screwed into the forward half of the airframe and the chute attached near the fin section of the airframe. This will definitely be flyable by my deadline.
Determined how much nose weight I need for my Boyce 2.6" Honest John with an I200W. Marked the launch shoe/rail guide lines. I've made the whole thing heavier so I don't trust the 3D printed harness attachment for the nose cone, so I thought through how I'm going to create a better anchor. I'm going to thread 1000lb Kevlar through a small hole in the mid-nose bulkhead and anchor that into the nose weight epoxy. This won't be finished in two months but it might be flyable.
Did another set of internal fillets on my Demon 5. Won't be done by Red Glare, but maybe I'll have the fin can wrapped up.
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Is that going to be a MACH II? Just received mine, and I have to go in the office/shack and admire it a couple times today.
Cannot wait to build and fly it!
GrouchoDuke
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Design iterations on a couple new rockets.
read the back issue of extreme rocketry December 2004
- Joined
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- Blocked and reported someone - I think only the second time in God knows how many years on TRF. Sad
- Loaded up for what I hope will be a decent launch out in the desert! Such a puzzle figuring out how to get long rockets in the vehicle!
- Created new cheap basswood sleds for Eggtimer Quarks to eventually replace all my 9v old time RRCs
- Solder up some starter leads and ohm'd them out to get them within a 1/10 of an ohm for clustering
- Dipped item number 4's leads in Magnalite dip.
- Downloaded the files to start building the Radical Rocketry Electric Thunderbird... Looks FUN!!
- Watched @Ronz Rocketz video from a week ago
Today I cut out fins for the second rocket I wasn't going to start until I got the other ones painted. But yesterday I got the second color on the lander. That is nearing completion. The last rocket is hanging from the ceiling with the others. That makes 5 unpainted rockets. The one I am working on is a 2.2" lower BT. There is a transition then a 1.63" BT. I haven't built one this size in a while. I got the rail buttons on, the fins tacked down with JB Kwik Weld and the fillets done with PC Super Epoxy. The hold up on painting is the wind. It has been steady for two weeks. A couple of days ago our weather station up a pole next to the driveway was reading 25-30mph. Sounded like a hoard of Banshees out side the garage door. Just about shredded our flags. But on launch day last Saturday the wind stopped long enough that the club was able to fly. I flew The Pringle can rocket. Good up and down. Got some applause. Then my 4" V2 on an I 205. Good up and down almost. The V2 has a trimmed LOC 4" nose cone for the bottom. It seems epoxy doesn't play well with it. So I popped off another fin. Already fixed. My last rocket was a quick build I did about 6 months ago to see how wraps work. That rocket had a wrap that looked like space. There was an event but the only thing to come out was the NC. It made a perfect core sample. 3" around and 3" deep. It was a write off. Since it was an experiment I don't miss it. It just frees up some space for a new one.
I put one TRF sticker on the tanker desk, and another one on top of the toolbox
Sooner Boomer
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- Mar 21, 2011
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Woke early, couldn't get back to sleep.* Piddled around for a bit, then decided to do a functional test of my Eggtimer Classic altimeter. Sure enough, it fires Estes ignitors. I don't think it will have any trouble with ematches. I've been building electronic circuits for over 55 years. It still surprises me when I assemble something and it works the first time! I managed to catch all of the potential mistakes before things were wired up. I somehow managed not to lose anything in the carpet/couch, and didn't burn myself (or anything else) with the soldering iron.
I want to give a big shout out to Chris Erving and Eggtimer! These are probably not the best kits to *learn* soldering with, but once you have experience, the through-hole kits (as compared to surface-mount) are fairly easy, especially if you take your time and think each step through.
*hopefully this will work in my favor. I've got to be up early to head out for the launch in the morning. It sucks to have to drive almost 200 miles to go to a launch, but the site is hard to beat. At least I have good company for the drive!
I want to give a big shout out to Chris Erving and Eggtimer! These are probably not the best kits to *learn* soldering with, but once you have experience, the through-hole kits (as compared to surface-mount) are fairly easy, especially if you take your time and think each step through.
*hopefully this will work in my favor. I've got to be up early to head out for the launch in the morning. It sucks to have to drive almost 200 miles to go to a launch, but the site is hard to beat. At least I have good company for the drive!
Williamhimka
Well-Known Member
You got it!!
I can’t wait to put mine together as well.
I’m ordering 2 of Tim’s fin alignment guides for it soon…
Good luck with your M2!
hope you get this as I wanted you to take some pictures of the launch.
Sooner Boomer
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I try to every launch. Digital film is cheap!
I am putting together a Loc 4 inch V2 and I discovered a product that works to bond epoxy to polyethylene.
Don't glue Polypropylene, BOND Polypropylene PP - tbbonding - The Adhesive Solutions Site
Glue Polypropylene? No, “bond” Polypropylene, with the Bonding Poly Process (patented) Conventional wisdom used to be that you can’t glue polypropylene, which is a polyolefin. Nowadays, you type in glue polypropylene and you get everything from gorilla glue to Elmer’s glue and little...
tbbonding.com
I only use the poly prep and heat as per instructions and the rocket poxy is bonded to the poly. Great stuff AFAICS.
Highly recommend. I am not affiliated with TB Bonding in any way.
The page talks all about polypropylene. Are you saying it works the same way for polyethylene?I am putting together a Loc 4 inch V2 and I discovered a product that works to bond epoxy to polyethylene.
Don't glue Polypropylene, BOND Polypropylene PP - tbbonding - The Adhesive Solutions Site
Glue Polypropylene? No, “bond” Polypropylene, with the Bonding Poly Process (patented) Conventional wisdom used to be that you can’t glue polypropylene, which is a polyolefin. Nowadays, you type in glue polypropylene and you get everything from gorilla glue to Elmer’s glue and little...
In the instructions, they talk about all polymers.
Made hatch for 9v battery.
Bought more lights from Wally World. I looked at the variety that they have there. It looks likes all are a variation on a theme. The others are sound responsive or for the car. All are about 6' long. These are $5. They are plastic coated and appear to be durable. The plastic is sticky, so it will create a lot of drag.
If I knew what I knew now, I would have done this a long time ago. Just get the USB ones with optical remote. Cut off the USB port and there is a black and red wire. Hook up to small battery case, lipo, or 9v. Remote switches on off as well as other features.
Bought more lights from Wally World. I looked at the variety that they have there. It looks likes all are a variation on a theme. The others are sound responsive or for the car. All are about 6' long. These are $5. They are plastic coated and appear to be durable. The plastic is sticky, so it will create a lot of drag.
If I knew what I knew now, I would have done this a long time ago. Just get the USB ones with optical remote. Cut off the USB port and there is a black and red wire. Hook up to small battery case, lipo, or 9v. Remote switches on off as well as other features.
Did some high altitude hot laps with Open Rockets latest hi-performance offering: The RC1.
A truly awesome experience, more refined than the previous model, and it handles flawlessly.
See your local dealer for a test drive.
A truly awesome experience, more refined than the previous model, and it handles flawlessly.
See your local dealer for a test drive.
pvduke
Well-Known Member
(crappy pics warning- my phone blows...sorry)
LOC Gobbler 4" L1 attemtper.
Fin can: CA tack then mini-fillets with BSI5, after 48 or so going back in, sanding and applying mo biguh fillets w/ BSI 30. AeroPack 54 retainer (w/ 39 adapter) mocked up and aft ring properly backspaced with options for Z-clips (T-nuts installed, screws in, no clips), it's perfect with proper relief between aft-ring and retainer (tack the aft ring with 0.560 protrusion FIRST on a 54- go from there.. and make DAMN sure it's concentric). Mid/Aft Rings are as equidistant as I can make them.
Fins: graph on cutting pad says I'm freaking super, super duper close. So does my protractor. Had to make an RCH "adjustment" once....and, oh dear GOD what was that noise? Ignore, over-ride, move on. Sans plywood warping? Pretty bang on. They will be square with a little brake, maybe. I want the whistle. And JT at LOC sent one 1.4m bone stock w/ a K.
Cone: blow-molded cones are bullet proof. And the molds truly blow. So, after HOURS of scraping and sanding and scotch brite and hand cramps....I quit. It's 98% better than it was (not saying much). SEM AP, black primer, shoot it, it's gona get dinged so....yeh, shiny don't work here for long. Keep the bare minimum amount of paint on it and use a good adhesion promoter and you get scratches, not huge delam chips. If we landed in grass? Maybe more effort.
Problem: as ya'll know, I live in the boonies, in a small Grand Design camper ( by choice, nice MTB trails, no people). It is BUTT cold here. Camper is comfy, but my works space is the dinette area that is in the slide out, and if ya own an RV, ya know that space gets REAL cold- no way to get it to 70 w/o roasting the rest of the place and using way too much propane. So I tented it with a small space heater, thermometer and can track temps for glue drying. Or weight loss. My choice.
Proly a good thing I'm single. If I had a missus, she would freak. And I'd be single. (still)
Color: I picked one. Who aint had a yeller Goblin? And a fine color it is. This one won't be yellow. Big issue is cleanliness. There's no clean spots up here, for a LONG ways. It's either ice, mud or dust or all 3. So I'll do my best with satin finishes.
Don't like it? Go wax yer Ferrari. (har)
So far, so good. And if I can keep my hands off it for a day or two (no more minor tweaks dumba==!), it should be up to task. It's a LOC 4" Goblin, don't get much tougher. Once it's done, I'll switch it the Goblin thread. If I pass and get my pin, or it pinwheels and splashes? Either way, good show and you better cheer!!
But I'm not a squid. I'd rather have my cert and fly the crap outa her. I aint building her to burn in or screw off with like some TV show antic. She's my first HPR. I'm heavily invested. And I gots lots of upgrades here for her (that won't be on cert flight cuz KISS). And I wana fly her a lot. A LOT. Cuz, well, I like me some Goblins.
Did I mention I like Goblins?
P/S: don't ya just hate it when the salt shaker lid pops off into your plate at the restaurant? Or the lid to the expoy blows off into the cup sending spooge everywhere?!
EEEIIIIYEEEE!
(and THAT'S why I have that sticky back carpet protector plastic on the table top!)
LOC Gobbler 4" L1 attemtper.
Fin can: CA tack then mini-fillets with BSI5, after 48 or so going back in, sanding and applying mo biguh fillets w/ BSI 30. AeroPack 54 retainer (w/ 39 adapter) mocked up and aft ring properly backspaced with options for Z-clips (T-nuts installed, screws in, no clips), it's perfect with proper relief between aft-ring and retainer (tack the aft ring with 0.560 protrusion FIRST on a 54- go from there.. and make DAMN sure it's concentric). Mid/Aft Rings are as equidistant as I can make them.
Fins: graph on cutting pad says I'm freaking super, super duper close. So does my protractor. Had to make an RCH "adjustment" once....and, oh dear GOD what was that noise? Ignore, over-ride, move on. Sans plywood warping? Pretty bang on. They will be square with a little brake, maybe. I want the whistle. And JT at LOC sent one 1.4m bone stock w/ a K.
Cone: blow-molded cones are bullet proof. And the molds truly blow. So, after HOURS of scraping and sanding and scotch brite and hand cramps....I quit. It's 98% better than it was (not saying much). SEM AP, black primer, shoot it, it's gona get dinged so....yeh, shiny don't work here for long. Keep the bare minimum amount of paint on it and use a good adhesion promoter and you get scratches, not huge delam chips. If we landed in grass? Maybe more effort.
Problem: as ya'll know, I live in the boonies, in a small Grand Design camper ( by choice, nice MTB trails, no people). It is BUTT cold here. Camper is comfy, but my works space is the dinette area that is in the slide out, and if ya own an RV, ya know that space gets REAL cold- no way to get it to 70 w/o roasting the rest of the place and using way too much propane. So I tented it with a small space heater, thermometer and can track temps for glue drying. Or weight loss. My choice.
Proly a good thing I'm single. If I had a missus, she would freak. And I'd be single. (still)
Color: I picked one. Who aint had a yeller Goblin? And a fine color it is. This one won't be yellow. Big issue is cleanliness. There's no clean spots up here, for a LONG ways. It's either ice, mud or dust or all 3. So I'll do my best with satin finishes.
Don't like it? Go wax yer Ferrari. (har)
So far, so good. And if I can keep my hands off it for a day or two (no more minor tweaks dumba==!), it should be up to task. It's a LOC 4" Goblin, don't get much tougher. Once it's done, I'll switch it the Goblin thread. If I pass and get my pin, or it pinwheels and splashes? Either way, good show and you better cheer!!
But I'm not a squid. I'd rather have my cert and fly the crap outa her. I aint building her to burn in or screw off with like some TV show antic. She's my first HPR. I'm heavily invested. And I gots lots of upgrades here for her (that won't be on cert flight cuz KISS). And I wana fly her a lot. A LOT. Cuz, well, I like me some Goblins.
Did I mention I like Goblins?
P/S: don't ya just hate it when the salt shaker lid pops off into your plate at the restaurant? Or the lid to the expoy blows off into the cup sending spooge everywhere?!
EEEIIIIYEEEE!
(and THAT'S why I have that sticky back carpet protector plastic on the table top!)
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pvduke
Well-Known Member
DerRedMax
Well-Known Member
Primed and painted some rockets that were in the queue.
read another back issue from 2006 of extreme rocketry. they always interviewed the legends of rocketry, one per issue.
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