What did you do rocket wise today?

Adam3836

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sriegel

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Even though I have spent most of the last three days asleep. I did finish the 3" rocket I was working on. It's 3" LOC tube with a 54mm mmt. Dual deploy, 75" long and weighs 80oz. I'm calling it "NOT AGAIN". Because as I have been gaining experience with dual deploy I have crashed a few rockets. Most because I blew up the av-bays. I have since changed how I build av-bays.

And-It's a dark day where the Port-O-Potty goes. I have come to the discission to abandon the project as envisioned at first. It is to heavy to fly on anything smaller than a K or L. And that is if it doesn't get much heavier. So, I'm going to remove the fins, install a 54mm mmt and make a spool out of it. By ditching the fins it save a lot of weight. I'll still make one about 1/4 the size first and see how that goes. When I started it I thought it would be very light because of the foam board construction. Boy, was I wrong. Back to the drawing board.

Here is the 3". Copper Metallic on the body. I had thought about calling it Penny. But I figured I would get asked, who is Penny.
View attachment 549424 View attachment 549425
Sorry the Port-a-potty didn't work out. I had a similar vision with a large X-wing that ended up being scrapped when it became apparent my engineering was not up to the task. But I learned a lot in the process, so not all bad.
 

Ladykate

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Realized I had most of the parts to make a crayon rocket so I used Jack Hydrazine's template and made one that is proportional to a Crayola (wax crayon used in the States and probably elsewhere). Skin was a proportional enlargement of a real Crayola wrapper. Fin can and motor can are different than Jack's - I used his fin profile though.

1670399252766.png
 

GrouchoDuke

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Researched buying another 3d printer. You know, for rocket internal bits.

Watched the progress of my electronics prototype order.

Thought about electronics testing.
 

berlinetta

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Im taking a short break from my Pink Lady build to put the electronics bay together for my 3" Black Brant X. Since I'm out of switches, this one will employ the twist and tape method which has worked wonderfully for me. This Black Brant will be painted identical to the actual Black Brant X.
 

rharshberger

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I keep hearing about twist and tape. Doesn't anyone use wire nuts? Or blade lugs? Or ring lugs and screws?
Twist and tape is usually a reference to using wires as a switch, twist together (altimeter armed) and tape to outside of airframe. I dont know of anyone that uses twist and tape anywhere else in the altimeter bays, usually some type of connector is used (terminal block, plugs, etc).
 

jqavins

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Yes, I know. But it seems to me that there are more secure ways to use wires as switches, and the minor added bulk could easily be tucked inside. The blade type could be taped outside if one wanted to.
 

rharshberger

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Yes, I know. But it seems to me that there are more secure ways to use wires as switches, and the minor added bulk could easily be tucked inside. The blade type could be taped outside if one wanted to.
You could, use just about any connector but wire is cheap, easy to use, reliable, and easy to replace when necessary. As for tucking it back inside the airframe after arming...lets not open that can of worms. Our club allows twist and tape but not twist and tuck.
 

jd2cylman

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I keep hearing about twist and tape. Doesn't anyone use wire nuts? Or blade lugs? Or ring lugs and screws?

Yes, I know. But it seems to me that there are more secure ways to use wires as switches, and the minor added bulk could easily be tucked inside. The blade type could be taped outside if one wanted to.

I used a variation of twist and tape/tuck. My wires come out of one vent hole, then I tuck back in another hole with a bit of tape over the wires to hopefully hold them in place. I rarely fly over or even near Mach, so it usually isn’t too much of an issue. I have converted all my 5” and 6” rockets to screw switches, which so far has worked pretty good. Speeds up prep time at the pad.
 

cautery

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Made "rat-killin" run today...

** Purchased materials to make special tools to make additional techniques possible.
  1. Making internal sanding tool x 2; One is FLEXIBLE with a 2.75" closed-cell foam mandrel on a PVC handle.
  2. The other tool is made from PVC and is 2.75" OD, rigid. Between the 2, I should be able to sand internally with consistent and FAST results.
  3. Sandpaper bonds to sanding mandrels with 3M 77 spray.
  4. Constructed a tool that will allow me to do internal fillets through the rear that should deposit exactly what I want in precisely the spot I want... with good delivery control regardless of viscosity.
  5. Figured out how to use a 2" PVC coupler to back/buck the air frame internal wall when drilling holes through air frame.... Coupler goes in.... wedges go in from either end and cross under the coupler to wedge it true and secure against the reverse sides of the through holes.
  6. Got some fresh wide and narrow 3M "Sharp Line" Blue masking tape for the external fillets.
  7. Making a tool to pull external fillets that won't be "wonky" if you don't keep the pull tool at a constant angle.
** Got my latest hardware in from McMaster-Carr.... mostly av-bay stuff, but some bench stock and tools.

** Made a "run-through" of the construction notes I drafted yesterday to proof them, add and refine steps.

Should be ready to ACTUALLY build tomorrow. :cool:
 
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I sanded off the spackling compound on the maxi-Alpha, and when I say off, it means 99% of it. Using 400 grit, it takes too much off, leaving the depression it was supposed to fill. It's not the answer to my finishing techniques.
 

cautery

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I sanded off the spackling compound on the maxi-Alpha, and when I say off, it means 99% of it. Using 400 grit, it takes too much off, leaving the depression it was supposed to fill. It's not the answer to my finishing techniques.
Are you using sanding blocks, et al? Or just your hands/fingers?

I find that getting flat, smooth, et al. requires that I NOT hold the paper in my hand for cutting....
 
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cut a heavy duty drinking straw down to 1 inch long for a launch lug and glued it in the fore position to replace the original crushed one on the maxi Alpha I'm restoring.
 
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