What did you do rocket wise today?

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jqavins

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Ah..ok :) I use that on the fins. Primer on the body tube.
A lot of folks use CWF, slightly thinned with water, to fill tube spirals. Apply to the spirals (some peopled do the whole tube) then sand off. After that, sandable filler-primer. The CWF leaves a lot less for the primer to fill, I'm told, so one apply-sand cycle with CWF can save more than one later.
 

Old School Doug

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A lot of folks use CWF, slightly thinned with water, to fill tube spirals. Apply to the spirals (some peopled do the whole tube) then sand off. After that, sandable filler-primer. The CWF leaves a lot less for the primer to fill, I'm told, so one apply-sand cycle with CWF can save more than one later.

Exactly. I use a thinned down CWF to fill the spirals. One pass with 220 grit to take it off and another fast pass with 400 grit wrapped around the body tube to give it a final smoothing and it's ready. Sandable filler-primer is great for catching any minor imperfections after that and laying the base for proper final coat adherence.
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prfesser

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Finished internal fillets on the Super Big Bertha clone. Still need to glue bulkhead into payload section, add railbuttons, and attach parachute but she should be ready to fly on Saturday sans paint. Probably on an F52-8T. Might need some nose weight as the G10 fins are pretty heavy.

The Big Bertha beside her will also have her maiden flight, on a C6-5. After which most of the paint will be sanded down. The stripes and one fin (facing away from the camera) came out pretty ugly. I like the purple and yellow scheme though and will use it on the SBB too.

Best -- Terry
BB and Super BB clone.jpg
 

Antares JS

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Almost bought that kit last night
How does it look? Seem like a good one ?

It seems expensive for what you get until you have it and see the basswood fins, nylon dinochutes parachute, kevlar shock cord, and 3D printed nose. The components are really nice and well thought out; I was impressed with it. And if you're an old-school Nintendo fan (90's kid here), you'll get a further kick out of it.

Disclaimer: I won it in the giveaway held on this forum and didn't pay for mine.
 

Adam3836

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It seems expensive for what you get until you have it and see the basswood fins, nylon dinochutes parachute, kevlar shock cord, and 3D printed nose. The components are really nice and well thought out; I was impressed with it. And if you're an old-school Nintendo fan (90's kid here), you'll get a further kick out of it.

Disclaimer: I won it in the giveaway held on this forum and didn't pay for mine.
Very cool
Saw someone here in CT with a large upscale of this kit and it looked very cool
 

John Kemker

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Found my old Tripoli Member Certification Form. The Level 1 and Level 2 pages were used.

Notice the verbiage relating to Experimental Rocketry/Research. It was still very controversial at times, some folks refused to admit it was something we could even do. Research or "EX" launches had to be held on a separate day, and it seems like only those flying EX motors could be present.

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Level 1 signature looks familiar.
 

Old School Doug

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Filling the inside spirals on those Kraken tube fins makes sense, but it must have been a PITA.

PITA is a bit of an understatement. But ever the one who insists on taking PITA to the next level, I did the same thing on the 6 tube fins on my Bits N Pieces scratch build. :angiefavorite:
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Printed aHoJo fin can yesterday for 2.6 tube. Today is the dragons head going at the top. It will be a DragJohn……Thinking small tassels from chin and neck…..If it prints successfully. We’ll know in 8 hours.
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DarthMuffin

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Tinkered with an idea for some avbay endcaps that gets rid of threaded rods, u bolts, and eye bolts. Anyone see why this wouldn't work, especially for smaller rockets (38mm here)? Basically one of these on either end of the avbay and run a single cord all the way through (I'll allow a thru slot in whatever 3d printed sled I do). I can see the knots having to be in a pretty precise location to slide the caps on but end result is the caps are in compression rather than tension. Tiny hole on "closed" pic is for a set screw to keep it closed.
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Sandy H.

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OK, I would have lost a bunch of money on that bet. At this point, I think Jack's marketing guy should be fired, as that's just too cool and a missed opportunity. Having said that, I don't watch the late shows, so maybe its common knowledge. I thought Jack's biggest contribution to society was Tenacious D (HUGE!) and a good film or six, but it really was letting his mom get her work done before saying "C'mon Mom! I gotta get out there and get to a show. Nobody waits on the D!!!". Great on both of you. Priorities correct.

Sandy.
 

eggplant

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I edited together this video with pictures and footage of my N motor firing from over the weekend. It obviously didn't go as planned, but everything other than the nozzle seems to have worked well so I'm feeling good about trying again soon. Even with the new nozzle design I think I can get well over 0.6 mass fraction, which is pretty good for an amateur motor.

 
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I edited together this video with pictures and footage of my N motor firing from over the weekend. It obviously didn't go as planned, but everything other than the nozzle seems to have worked well so I'm feeling good about trying again soon. Even with the new nozzle design I think I can get well over 0.6 mass fraction, which is pretty good for an amateur motor.


Add some steel cable loops on the end of your ratchet straps connected to the hot bit thingy. Was the printed mandrel easy enough to get out?
Norm
 
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