What did you do rocket wise today?

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

Long_Gone

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
270
Reaction score
121
Location
NEPA
From this end of the box because it says "EST 2001" it is made in 2001?
IMG_20210407_184104.jpg
 

heada

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Messages
4,001
Reaction score
1,175
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Check the instructions for a copyright date. EST2001 is how they normally name their kits. I have the EST1969 (most recent) and EST2157 (few years ago) Sat V kits
 

Long_Gone

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
270
Reaction score
121
Location
NEPA
Check the instructions for a copyright date. EST2001 is how they normally name their kits. I have the EST1969 (most recent) and EST2157 (few years ago) Sat V kits
No dates of any kind on the cover or inside of the instructions. Estes web page details that the 1988 kit is 43" tall and flies to 100' on a D12-3. That's what the box spec's say.
IMG_20210407_190043.jpg
 

Antares JS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
871
Reaction score
918
Location
Eastern Shore, VA
After two rounds of sealing and sanding, my Doorknob's fins are now smooth enough to proceed with. Just need to... *sigh* ...sand the tapers into the leading edges. A task for tomorrow.

Also wrote to Fliskits to request clarification/correction on the L-13 paint guide. It has a 12.29" dimension on there twice.

20210407_195752.jpg


20210407_194628.jpg
 

Wally Ferrer

SRE
TRF Supporter
Joined
Apr 20, 2019
Messages
1,231
Reaction score
1,596
Location
Manassas, VA
No dates of any kind on the cover or inside of the instructions. Estes web page details that the 1988 kit is 43" tall and flies to 100' on a D12-3. That's what the box spec's say.View attachment 458873
I went through the old catalogs, In those the first appearance of NO.2001 is 1988. In 1993 it becomes EST.2001. It is gone in 1995, and returns in 2011 as 2157. None have a picture of the box. So somewhere between 1988 and 1995, if the NO. designation matters then it's 1993 through 1995. 1994 was the 25th Anniversary edition.
 

Long_Gone

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
270
Reaction score
121
Location
NEPA
T
I went through the old catalogs, In those the first appearance of NO.2001 is 1988. In 1993 it becomes EST.2001. It is gone in 1995, and returns in 2011 as 2157. None have a picture of the box. So somewhere between 1988 and 1995, if the NO. designation matters then it's 1993 through 1995. 1994 was the 25th Anniversary edition.
Thanks
 

DigBaddy

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Feb 19, 2021
Messages
80
Reaction score
120
Location
SE, WI
No pics at the moment; but yesterday I was able to get a shot of primer on my first cluster project (3x18). If the paint job goes as planned I'll probably make a thread for it :) Got a "Baby Daddy" (BT-60) project moving as well (pic). Motor mount built (24mm; yeah, much overkill), body tube cut and template made for 3/32 basswood fins. Might need to get some custom decals for that one. Also painted the 3 nosecones for one of my cheap Viking bulk pack creations.
 

Attachments

jqavins

Helpful Smartass
TRF Supporter
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
5,254
Reaction score
2,383
Location
Howard, NY
Got a "Baby Daddy" (BT-60) project moving...
Baby Daddy is not really a thing (outside of a downscale) like Big Daddy is. Now, Baby Momma...
Motor mount built (24mm; yeah, much overkill)...
You can always adapt down, but you can't adapt up. (A8 to C6 over and over, then D12 when you get tired of it?)
 

DigBaddy

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Feb 19, 2021
Messages
80
Reaction score
120
Location
SE, WI
Baby Daddy is not really a thing (outside of a downscale) like Big Daddy is. Now, Baby Momma...You can always adapt down, but you can't adapt up. (A8 to C6 over and over, then D12 when you get tired of it?)
When I tire of it, it'll get streamer recovery and an AT E20. :)
 

Cape Byron

The BAR formerly known as Skippy-2
TRF Supporter
Joined
Aug 4, 2019
Messages
1,462
Reaction score
1,452
Location
Northern Rivers, Australia
Swore just a little when I got back from the print shop with test wraps for the Main Beach rocket.

Despite careful measurements, made by me, and careful instructions to the print shop of "Do not scale this file; print at 100%", the wraps have been scaled and are about 4.7 mm out on width.

Okay, no biggie just print them again. The print shop is a 45 minute round trip and I have farm work to do.

So... the proto is going to look a little weird/ugly/unfinished. :mad:

And I'll use a different print shop for the kit wraps.
 

Antares JS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
871
Reaction score
918
Location
Eastern Shore, VA
Today I sanded the tapers into my Doorknob fins.

I used a dremel to remove the bulk of the material and then the final sculpting with 220 sandpaper and the Apogee sanding tee.

Then I covered up a few rough spots and leading edge nicks with wood filler and epoxy clay. One more short round of sanding tomorrow to smooth out the wood filler and they should finally be ready to install.

20210408_212213.jpg
 

Antares JS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
871
Reaction score
918
Location
Eastern Shore, VA
It should go without saying, but I should add that if you also try to make tapers like the ones above with a Dremel, be very careful. the couple of leading edge nicks I had to fix were caused by the Dremel slipping - even at minimum speed it will chew through balsa like it's not even there.

I spent a bunch of time with a straight edge and a pencil carefully marking the geometry of the tapers on the sides and edges of the fins. By doing this, there is no guesswork involved in where to remove material when the Dremel is running. Do not try to take off all the material with the Dremel, just the bulk of it. Leave a layer of material for the sandpaper to take away and leave you with a smooth taper surface.

The advantage, of course, is that all four tapers only took me about an hour and a half to complete, from measuring and marking to final sanding with paper.
 
Last edited:

OverTheTop

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
5,060
Reaction score
2,325
Location
Melbourne Australia
Today I got my automatic antenna tracker linked, with Bluetooth, to the PC. That now allows me to configure it, without needing a USB cable, without it winding up the cable when it rotates.

Also found out it looks like I need to get the Telemega to output APRS packets with the GPS data from the rocket, so I need to make a TNC to receive that and get the data to the AAT. Why can't life be simple sometimes...
 

jqavins

Helpful Smartass
TRF Supporter
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
5,254
Reaction score
2,383
Location
Howard, NY
Swore just a little when I got back from the print shop with test wraps for the Main Beach rocket.

Despite careful measurements, made by me, and careful instructions to the print shop of "Do not scale this file; print at 100%", the wraps have been scaled and are about 4.7 mm out on width.

Okay, no biggie just print them again. The print shop is a 45 minute round trip and I have farm work to do.

So... the proto is going to look a little weird/ugly/unfinished. :mad:

And I'll use a different print shop for the kit wraps.
If it were me, I'd tell the print shop how they screwed up. If they agree to do it over for free, give me an email address to send the file, and mail me the product, then I'd give them another chance. If not, I'd make sure they know just why they've lost my business.

My opinion only: one screw up can be forgiven if they make it right, and good service should be rewarded. Bad service should be penalized and the offender should be able to "think about what you did".

It should go without saying, but I should add that if you also try to do make tapers like the ones above with a Dremel, be very careful. the couple of leading edge nicks I had to fix were caused by the Dremel slipping - even at minimum speed it will chew through balsa like it's not even there.
Which is why I cringe at the thought of shaping balsa with a Dremel. It's only balsa, and not really thick; sand paper will do the whole job just fine. 120 or 180 grit to start if there's really a lot to remove. The amount that a klutz like me should leave to finish up with sandpaper is more than the starting thickness for fins like that.
 

Antares JS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
871
Reaction score
918
Location
Eastern Shore, VA
Which is why I cringe at the thought of shaping balsa with a Dremel. It's only balsa, and not really thick; sand paper will do the whole job just fine. 120 or 180 grit to start if there's really a lot to remove. The amount that a klutz like me should leave to finish up with sandpaper is more than the starting thickness for fins like that.
After the amount of time I had already put into making those fins nice (they came from one of the roughest sheets of balsa I have ever seen) I was pretty much out of patience and after weighing the options decided to risk shaping the tapers with the Dremel. It worked out decently though and I plan to do a repeat performance on the Estes Honest John fins.
 
Top