3D Printing What Are You Printing Today?

[cwbullet]

Here is another from Thingverse in White PETG

 

[FMarvinS]

Chuck, nice print!

Fred

 

[cwbullet]

I am getting good at printing. I need to work on designing.

 

[slohand]

I recently printed a 4 to 3 inch transition for a rocket build in progress. Currently, I'm working on a "through the wall" camera shroud for the mobius so that only the lens passes through the booster tube wall.

Fred, L2
ICBM, Camden, S.C.
KG4YGP

Hey Fred, did you come up with an idea for your Mobius? Here is a design I'm working on. Requires taking the Mobius out of it's case.



Some fairing designs.

and a prototype.

 

[cwbullet]

Nice shrouds.

 

[Sheree]

Custom BT-70 based Blue Origin New Shepard. Flies using 24mm motors and LOTS of nose weight!

 

[Sheree]

3D renderings of the BT-70 New Shepard...

 

[FMarvinS]

Hey Fred, did you come up with an idea for your Mobius? Here is a design I'm working on. Requires taking the Mobius out of it's case.

View attachment 373702

Some fairing designs.

and a prototype.

Hey Fred, did you come up with an idea for your Mobius? Here is a design I'm working on. Requires taking the Mobius out of it's case.

View attachment 373702

Some fairing designs.

and a prototype.
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Lawrence-I like your mobius shroud design and clean prints. My shroud design is one piece with the camera inside an enclosure within the body tube; however, the lens is extended on a cable through the booster wall. I've printed early designs in PETG. The lens fits through a contoured end-mill cut opening in the booster tube. I'm ordering high temp tape to cover the external sections to hopefully avoid damage due to heat experienced at above mach speeds. Once completed and tested I'll post it, if there is interest. After flying your shroud, let us know how it worked out. Good luck.

Fred

 

[FMarvinS]

Lawrence-I like your mobius shroud design and clean prints. My shroud design is one piece with the camera inside an enclosure within the body tube; however, the lens is extended on a cable through the booster wall. I've printed early designs in PETG. The lens fits through a contoured end-mill cut opening in the booster tube. I'm ordering high temp tape to cover the external sections to hopefully avoid damage due to heat experienced at above mach speeds. Once completed and tested I'll post it, if there is interest. After flying your shroud, let us know how it worked out. Good luck.

Fred

 

[Ben Martin]

Printed the transition/motor retainer for my new scratch build.

 

[manixFan]

Not rocket related but still what I printed. Over 8 hours for a simple tray. 9”x5”x1”, 1” compartments. Fits in a dresser drawer.


Tony

Benchmade knife tray:

 

[slohand]

Lawrence-I like your mobius shroud design and clean prints. My shroud design is one piece with the camera inside an enclosure within the body tube; however, the lens is extended on a cable through the booster wall. I've printed early designs in PETG. The lens fits through a contoured end-mill cut opening in the booster tube. I'm ordering high temp tape to cover the external sections to hopefully avoid damage due to heat experienced at above mach speeds. Once completed and tested I'll post it, if there is interest. After flying your shroud, let us know how it worked out. Good luck.

Fred

Thanks Fred, Yeah I'm new to the hobby and a little nervous about this project path I've put myself on LOL. I've had soo many design changes .... here is a pic pre-paint finish. I do have the extension cable for the lens they sell for a dash cam application but opted to have the camera stay close together.

That patch you see was the first location I chose and learnt a lot about "small spaces". Bummer about this new location is that won't see much on descent except the parachute.

 

[slohand]

Here are a few other 3D projects based on thingieverse projects I saw.

 

[slohand]

Oh and one more 3D printed fun project. Not a flight ready model, just a show model. Stands about 40". Stickers aren't on yet.

 

[slohand]

Printed the transition/motor retainer for my new scratch build. View attachment 373806

Ben, Can you show us more of the motor casing design? Looks incredible!

 

[FMarvinS]

Lawrence-Looks great! What method did you use to cut out the camera port in the fiberglass body tube? Which filament are you printing with? Also, you may want to consider positioning the lens at a 20 degree angle (or 110 degrees from zero) in order to catch more of the receding ground during flight. You can ground test at different angles to see what's best. Presuming dual deployment, once your drogue is deployed (if its stored below the camera section) you'll get video of the chute release and clouds at least until the main chute is deployed-should prove to be an interesting video.

Fred

 

[FMarvinS]

Ben- I'd like to also get more info on your excellent motor retainer. Is it screwed on or held in place by tabs or tapped machine screws? How do you avoid potential damage from motor case heat transfer during flight? It would be great to avoid paying $50 plus for commercial aluminum tailcone motor retainers!

Fred

 

[Ben Martin]

Ben, Can you show us more of the motor casing design? Looks incredible!

Sure! I'll post some 3D renderings later today. It's similar to the one I made for my L2 scratch build.

 

[Ben Martin]

Ben- I'd like to also get more info on your excellent motor retainer. Is it screwed on or held in place by tabs or tapped machine screws? How do you avoid potential damage from motor case heat transfer during flight? It would be great to avoid paying $50 plus for commercial aluminum tailcone motor retainers!

Fred

It is held on by 4 screws that are threaded into the transition. Motor casing heat is no issue as I use a LOC motor tube as insulation. This design has been flight tested on my L2 scratch build 3 times on a J250 and two I180W's with no damage. This particular design is for 3" tube to 38mm motor tube. My L2 design is from 3" to 54mm motor tube.

I'll make sure to release more information about it soon so you can get a better understanding of how it is made.

 

[slohand]

Lawrence-Looks great! What method did you use to cut out the camera port in the fiberglass body tube?

I actually started with an Estes V2 kit. I used John Coker's method of wrapping the cardboard tube with fiberglass. Easy enough to cut with a new blade. I did however 3D print a template sleeve that fit on the outside of the tube for alignment of the opening and as a template for my screw holes.

Which filament are you printing with?

I print with PLA and ABS depending on the application. ABS has the higher temperature rating. PLA is more brittle.

Also, you may want to consider positioning the lens at a 20 degree angle (or 110 degrees from zero) in order to catch more of the receding ground during flight. You can ground test at different angles to see what's best. Presuming dual deployment, once your drogue is deployed (if its stored below the camera section) you'll get video of the chute release and clouds at least until the main chute is deployed-should prove to be an interesting video.

Fred

Awesome tip. Thank You!

 

[BryRocket]

I recently printed a 4 to 3 inch transition for a rocket build in progress. Currently, I'm working on a "through the wall" camera shroud for the mobius so that only the lens passes through the booster tube wall.

Fred, L2
ICBM, Camden, S.C.
KG4YGP

I made this little 54mm AV bay that holds two PF strattologgers, 2 switches and a mobius mini. I made a custom case for the mini and then made it to where you can extend the unit through the airframe after the bay is in place. I don’t have a ton of photos right now of the sled/bay but I’ll put what I have. None of the front for the computers. It also has 2 recessed wells for 1mL centrifuge BP charge tubes. The whole thing is shorter than 7”. I can send files or better pictures/explanations if you want them.

Pictures of case.

Pictures of back of sled where camera attaches.

Here is the lens before adjusting out.

Use an tool to adjust fix bolt out.

Then lens is solid and flush.

 

[BryRocket]

Made this little handy nozzle sizer. I only have #20, #22 and #28 and it works perfect for them.

 

[DRAGON64]

Still printing the Saturn V for my display collection... only on the 4th stage, and have been printing mostly non-stop since Saturday. This is not a huge print, but I set the resolution at .15mm, and am printing at half speed. 1st The stage took 24 hours and 34 minutes to complete... whew!

 

[FMarvinS]

BryRocket- I like your well designed bay for a 54mm body tube a lot. You've packed a lot into a small space which manifests your well organized design. I have some MD builds to do and I'll refer to your design prior to starting those builds. My build is less challenging. I'm placing a mobius (full size) in a 98 mm body tube only. My only challenge is to confine size so that passage of the drogue plus laundry at apogee is not hindered. I use 1 watt and 2 watt transmitters with my GPS units which possibly further complicates EM interference with altimeters and possibly cameras. So, with these units I keep distance between the GPS (in nose cone) and the altimeters and camera. If you fly your sled/camera, please post some pictures/video.

Fred

 

[cwbullet]

There are some wonderful items out there. I would recommend everyone consider uploading them to Thingverse.

I am printing Dragon64’s Nose Cone in which he graciously cut into to two pieces for my smaller printer.

Made this little handy nozzle sizer. I only have #20, #22 and #28 and it works perfect for them.

View attachment 373856

Heck, that is as good as a commercial product.

 

[Ben Martin]

It is held on by 4 screws that are threaded into the transition. Motor casing heat is no issue as I use a LOC motor tube as insulation. This design has been flight tested on my L2 scratch build 3 times on a J250 and two I180W's with no damage. This particular design is for 3" tube to 38mm motor tube. My L2 design is from 3" to 54mm motor tube.

I'll make sure to release more information about it soon so you can get a better understanding of how it is made.

Some pictures of the 3D model. I printed it with PETG, no support needed at any point.

 

[FMarvinS]

Thanks Ben, I appreciate your further elucidation of your neat tail cone retainer! Are those inlets for 4-40 screws or 6-32? Also, how "deep" is the section that is epoxied into the body tube?

Fred

 

[cwbullet]

View attachment 373902View attachment 373903View attachment 373904View attachment 373905
Some pictures of the 3D model. I printed it with PETG, no support needed at any point.

Ben that is fantastic.

 

[manixFan]

Wow, Ben, that is some great design. I’d like to get to that point but I’m still in the early learning stages of the CAD software I’m using. Are you using heat set inserts to receive the screws? Also good to hear a body tube is enough insulation.


Tony

 

[Ben Martin]

Wow, Ben, that is some great design. I’d like to get to that point but I’m still in the early learning stages of the CAD software I’m using. Are you using heat set inserts to receive the screws? Also good to hear a body tube is enough insulation.


Tony

Thank you! I learn Inventor through years of engineering courses and it's pretty user friendly once you get to know it. As for inserts, this design and my previous one just use the screw itself to thread the transition. A more sustainable solution would be using metal inserts epoxied into the transition, but I have had good luck without them thus far. Regarding the motor tube, having a LOC motor tube epoxied to the transition provides more than enough protection for the PETG, no issues throughout my previous tests with J and I motors.