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Dustin Lobner

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Start of a fincan for a 4" video camera rocket that will hopefully launch in January at Bong.

IMG_20201219_123047015.jpg




What it will hopefully become:

fincan model.PNGfincan model2.PNG


The projection off the side is for the rail button. The nosecone is larger diameter than the tube (to allow the camera to point down while creating symetrical drag).

EDIT: computer says 104 hour print, guessing more like 130. So...done Thursday?
 

jpatton

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Right now taking a break from trying to get my NylonG to print well and printing out a new launch pad for the kids rockets that are going to be in their stockings. Still have to dig around garage to see if I can find a deflector and launch rod out there.

Pulled the design off thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683147
 

BDB

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Right now taking a break from trying to get my NylonG to print well and printing out a new launch pad for the kids rockets that are going to be in their stockings. Still have to dig around garage to see if I can find a deflector and launch rod out there.

Pulled the design off thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683147
Please tell me how NylonG works for you. I'm thinking about printing a modular fin can with either NylonG or NylonX. What are you using for filament drying?
 

jpatton

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I like the filament but it is kind of temperamental when it comes to humidity. I do have my printer in the garage so It may be more of a problem for me than others with their printers in the house. I will typically dry it in the oven for 4 or 5 hours before I start printing but even then for a longer print if I do not have it in some sort of dry box it will fail as progresses. I have a friend who prints nylons as well and says the same thing about them being very sensitive to humidity. I am actually looking at getting a PrintDry setup specifically for printing it. I also print on garolite when I am printing with nylon and have not had any trouble with bed adhesion. Both G and X will tear up any of the soft nozzles as well so be sure to at least use a hardened steel nozzle with them.
 
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kalsow

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Spin rockets for a 4" Honest John. The OpenSCAD script is attached below, so it's easy to scale for any diameter.
IMG_0133.jpg


The shape is based on this photo, found somewhere on the interweb...
hojo1.jpg


hojo1_spin.jpg
 

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AeroAggie

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First plate of parts for a new printer build. A baby Voron V0 with a modest 120x120 print bed, Dragon hot end, and CoreXY motion. This will be my desktop printer for running quick prototypes of AvBay sleds and whatnot. This 27 hour print will be my longest to date.

 

JoePfeiffer

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Got a nozzle clog. All I'm printing these days are downright airy confections. Hopefully I'll get a chance to change the nozzle out tomorrow (yes, I've tried the various hot-pull and tiny drill bit solutions. They've worked before, but not this time).
 

OverTheTop

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Got a nozzle clog. All I'm printing these days are downright airy confections. Hopefully I'll get a chance to change the nozzle out tomorrow (yes, I've tried the various hot-pull and tiny drill bit solutions. They've worked before, but not this time).
Try replacing the Teflon Bowdin tube. A guy at work did this the other day to fix his problem. End was cooked.
 

Michael L

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I wanted to test the reliability of making a long duration print on my Prusa so I started a 3D print of a model of the Little Boy... Landscape Leveling Device? 31h32m PLA, rafts and supports even though the remixer said it wasn't necessary. 7 hours to go 😟 so far so good but man... if this thing fails at the end that's going to be a bummer. Not a long lived bummer though. Ie, if it prints I get a shelf space consumer, if it doesn't... eh...

I started using a teflon nozzle block "boot" about a month ago because I had the same "airy confection" problem. I ended up changing the nozzle. I went with .4mm hardened steel because I plan to try out some Nylon Carbon X. I put the "boot" back on when I put the new nozzle in and I had a long run of good prints. When I started the Little Boy print I got a wad of material on the first attempt. I pulled the "boot" off and it was packed with filament nearly 1/4 thick and the nozzle area was split. I couldn't find the spare boots I have (found them eventually) so I cleaned everything up and started the print without it. So far so good. Once it's finished I'll replace the boot. It's made of silicone btw. At this point the only opinion I have of the boot is that it might keep the nozzle clean, it might help stabilize the nozzle temperature, and it is a consumable.
 

Michael L

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I'm thinking about printing a launch controller box (not my design). The STL file has the bottom and top on the side. The top has various openings in it for a timer display, button, arming key, etc. I don't know if this one of those cases where I can rotate the part to put the holes and top on the bed or if I should print it as the designer placed it in the model. I think I should rotate it. STL's attached. Thoughts?
 

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AeroAggie

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Almost maxing out the Z on my 300mm Voron. This will be a 54mm airframe, 5:1 Von Karman nose cone, and 29mm power. The nose cone tip was printed separately to keep the height within range of the printer, and so that I can add ballast if necessary.

I'm working the CAD on a 38mm version now.



The CAD:



And the prototype dry assembly:

 
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alexzogh

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Booster Glider...

rket.JPG

 

BDB

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I printed a NC sled and mounting ring using NylonX. I was concerned that the CF in the filament might interfere with the RF and WiFi from the Featherweight GPS and Eggtimer Quantum, but preliminary testing looks like that isn’t an issue.
7871BAAE-351C-417C-8E2D-FC27F441A130.jpeg6127C34F-6E40-4F46-A52B-DFE1C2F2CE1B.jpeg
 

alexzogh

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I'm thinking about printing a launch controller box (not my design). The STL file has the bottom and top on the side. The top has various openings in it for a timer display, button, arming key, etc. I don't know if this one of those cases where I can rotate the part to put the holes and top on the bed or if I should print it as the designer placed it in the model. I think I should rotate it. STL's attached. Thoughts?
The controller this came from is crazy - do you really want a protoboard in your launch controller? Much simpler designs out there like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1607954 , https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189586, or this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3312113
 

vcp

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I needed some large-ish stand offs for a 4" Honest John. I wanted to be able to tweak their size and shape, so OpenSCAD was the tool. The script is attached.


View attachment 446908


View attachment 446909

Detailed on TRF here, and updated here.
 
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Michael L

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The controller this came from is crazy - do you really want a protoboard in your launch controller? Much simpler designs out there like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1607954 , https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189586, or this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3312113
I decided against it for a number of reasons. I wasn't going to use protoboard. I have a circuit board mill that makes double sided boards. But with that in mind, I was going to redesign, use some SMD components (maybe), and change it enough that the enclosure wouldn't be useful. I'll check out your links. Much appreciated
 

caveduck

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Own-design rack for Wiha 11-pc imperial T-handle hex wrench set. Using these a ton right now on my telescope restoration project (why I've been scarce around here). No such animal on thingiverse...optional snap-on feet (shown) or magnets in recesses on the bottom. Metric version printing now. This is at the limits of what I can do on a Prusa MK3S diagonally on the bed.
D20210127_164903.jpg
 

Michael L

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I printed a NC sled and mounting ring using NylonX. I was concerned that the CF in the filament might interfere with the RF and WiFi from the Featherweight GPS and Eggtimer Quantum, but preliminary testing looks like that isn’t an issue.
View attachment 448334View attachment 448335
What are you printing with. I have some NylonX but I haven't tried it yet
 

Michael L

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I like the filament but it is kind of temperamental when it comes to humidity. I do have my printer in the garage so It may be more of a problem for me than others with their printers in the house. I will typically dry it in the oven for 4 or 5 hours before I start printing but even then for a longer print if I do not have it in some sort of dry box it will fail as progresses. I have a friend who prints nylons as well and says the same thing about them being very sensitive to humidity. I am actually looking at getting a PrintDry setup specifically for printing it. I also print on garolite when I am printing with nylon and have not had any trouble with bed adhesion. Both G and X will tear up any of the soft nozzles as well so be sure to at least use a hardened steel nozzle with them.
I have a PrintDry Pro that works pretty well. I dried a spool of filament with it then kept the drying cycle going and put the filament through holes made for it and basically printed with heated filament. It worked great. It looks like they are out of the 5 pack of vacuum storage boxes. Those have been handy too.
 

BDB

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What are you printing with. I have some NylonX but I haven't tried it yet
I have an Ender 5 with a Microswiss direct drive and an all-metal hot end. I'm also using a Sunlu filament dryer and a piece of 1/8" G10 that I had planned to use for AV sleds, but it makes a great build surface for nylon.
 

cwbullet

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Own-design rack for Wiha 11-pc imperial T-handle hex wrench set. Using these a ton right now on my telescope restoration project (why I've been scarce around here). No such animal on thingiverse...optional snap-on feet (shown) or magnets in recesses on the bottom. Metric version printing now. This is at the limits of what I can do on a Prusa MK3S diagonally on the bed.
View attachment 448546
Nice!
 

caveduck

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Nut holders / tube backers for #6-32 screws, idea blatantly stolen from Prusa construction. These are for the telescope project where the 50 year old gelcoat tube is very brittle, but #8 ones with some lateral contour will be great for rail buttons. If you look closely they are radiused for the 9.375" ID tube.

D20210128_163117.jpg
 

Michael L

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I have an Ender 5 with a Microswiss direct drive and an all-metal hot end. I'm also using a Sunlu filament dryer and a piece of 1/8" G10 that I had planned to use for AV sleds, but it makes a great build surface for nylon.
I may give it a try on my Prusa then. I have an enclosure for the printer and filament drier so maybe I'll be able to print with it
 

Charles_McG

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I printed a blob. Very sad. All the way around the hot end and pushed into the fan.
It looks like the z-axis stalled overnight. AFCFCA9F-E448-4E53-B8F2-494EE7B2322D.jpeg
 
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