Wayco's RW Mongoose 54 build

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Jim, you have used them to retain motors? I don't think so.

Yes.....and...

but a 75lb rocket with 3 of the PML small size holding the Av-bay in payload, surely gets a heck of a wallop from recovery.

Just last month I had a 3 in. rocket CATO under full head of steam. Main deployed at 3 seconds snapped the 9/16 tubular nylon off eyebolt & didn't faze the rivets. This was apogee side where force was brutal and nothing to hold stuff together except the rivets.

Even with the use OP has stated, the forces you guys are discussing are from recovery being attached to top side of motor retention.
The forces should be carried through eyebolt.....rods...motor and thrust ring/rear closure. Little or none directly on rivet's except from BP.
I have had 7 gram BP charges on the 7.5 inch, no vet band to stop forward movement of bay.
They even held when chute failure caused a direct hit on av-bay[no vent band] upon free-fall landing. Just 3.

Am I missing something or not following correctly?

My experience has been good, I cannot account for others & their use of them. I feel totally confident & did use them on a 54minimum, making my own retention similar to Aero-pacs....just a coupler section, BP with eye-bolt running through to motor. Rivets from airframe, through coupler, to hold in place.
Works identical at fraction of cost. This one was a 98.

100_9365.jpg
 
Yes.....and...

but a 75lb rocket with 3 of the PML small size holding the Av-bay in payload, surely gets a heck of a wallop from recovery.

Just last month I had a 3 in. rocket CATO under full head of steam. Main deployed at 3 seconds snapped the 9/16 tubular nylon off eyebolt & didn't faze the rivets. This was apogee side where force was brutal and nothing to hold stuff together except the rivets.

Even with the use OP has stated, the forces you guys are discussing are from recovery being attached to top side of motor retention.
The forces should be carried through eyebolt.....rods...motor and thrust ring/rear closure. Little or none directly on rivet's except from BP.
I have had 7 gram BP charges on the 7.5 inch, no vet band to stop forward movement of bay.
They even held when chute failure caused a direct hit on av-bay[no vent band] upon free-fall landing. Just 3.

Am I missing something or not following correctly?

My experience has been good, I cannot account for others & their use of them. I feel totally confident & did use them on a 54minimum, making my own retention similar to Aero-pacs....just a coupler section, BP with eye-bolt running through to motor. Rivets from airframe, through coupler, to hold in place.
Works identical at fraction of cost. This one was a 98.

View attachment 281117

Well, OK. Sounds like CJ has used plastic rivets for motor retention. Personally I will stick with metal that is threaded in some form/fashion or metallic retention clips designed the right depth/width/thickness.
 
OK, if you feel comfortable, I certainly want it to work for you. Although maybe an outlier, you might also take a look at an extreme event such as a recovery anomaly that I mentioned before. The G-forces can surprise you. Let us know how your flight(s) go.
Will do. I'm not about to start with a 6 grain motor. I'll work my way up to the mach busting, high altitude flights checking for signs of shear on the rivets. If needed I can always add 3 more 120° apart offset by 60°.

I should add that it never hurts to listen to (or consider) possible differing opinions and do a little math to backup one's methods. I find it very refreshing.
 
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...Even with the use OP has stated, the forces you guys are discussing are from recovery being attached to top side of motor retention. The forces should be carried through eye-bolt ...rods...motor and thrust ring/rear closure. Little or none directly on rivet's except from BP.
Good point. I did not consider those forces being distributed in that manner, which would reduce the overall shear load on the rivets. Nicely done!
 
While double checking my calculations above, I came across a PDF file listing ASTM test data properties for Nylon 6/6, Nylon 6, etc. Although that data supports the property values I used for the rivet shear stress values, it also shows my values were quite conservative. While I used 60% of 10,500 psi, the ASTM data listed the values at 12,000 psi for tensile strength and 10,000 psi for shear (83.3% of the tensile strength).
 
I'm very glad that Wayco started this topic. It (and a couple of his other MD build topics) have helped me with decisions and techniques related to MD rockets.

Presently, my first MD rocket (Mongoose 54) only needs two things done before it's finished - install & wire the SLCF altimeter (in the mail) and adding fillets to the fins that were added yesterday... :w:
 
When I built the thin wall Blackhawk 54 for Wildman, he specifically requested that I use plastic rivets to hold the internal motor retainer in place. With four flights from J250 to L640, I have had no issues with them. I did use 4-40 flat head screws for the payload tube connection to the avbay. I'm not really happy with the 6-32 flathead screws that I used on this Mongoose, they are too large and the recessed holes I drilled didn't come out very good. Two of the six holes for motor retention and payload tube retention drifted off the pilot hole. Carbon fiber tubing is harder to drill the tapered holes into.

Last week, I soldered together the latest version of Eggfinder TX, (Board rev. B6) and really enjoyed the improvements Cris has made to it. Fewer components and larger pads really make it much easier to assemble. Yesterday I cut out a sled to mount it in the nosecone. Since I already had an EF mounted in the N/C of my first Blackhawk, I used that sled as a pattern, then modified it to fit this latest build. Looking at the old sled and how it was mounted, I came up with a plan to upgrade the old coupler/NC so the new sled/Eggfinder would fit in both rockets. This was achieved by using two fiberglass stepped avbay lids from Rocketry Warehouse. First I mounted a fiberglass bulkhead recessed into the bottom of the new coupler, and mounted an eyebolt. On the older coupler, I reinforced the already mounted bulkhead and added an eyebolt. The shorter coupler on the left is from the old Blackhawk:
010%204.jpg


Next, I cut a small piece of aluminum 3/4" angle to mount the sled to the stepped lids, centered it and drilled two holes through the angle and lids. Then I drilled out the holes in the lids to 11/64" and mounted pem nuts:
001_1.jpg


After mounting the pem nuts, I scratched up the lid and epoxied them in place. The older coupler already had 4-40 pem nuts mounted inside to hold the nosecone on, so I added the same size to the newer coupler:
002_1.jpg


Agh! Sorry about the bad pic, the camera focused on the stop nut and fender washer at the bottom. This area is now sealed with the stepped lid, which I epoxied on with rocketpoxy. Now the lid has 6-32 screws holding the angle and sled to it. Since I drilled identical holes in both stepped lids, I can remove the screws and attach the sled to either coupler:
008_4.jpg


I mounted a 2s 800 mah lipo to one side of the sled, adding another piece of angle and a couple small strips of fiberglass to hold it in place. It also has a piece of two sided tape under the battery. I cut a couple of slots in the sled to hold the zip tie and route the wires around to the Eggfinder:
009_4.jpg


The Eggfinder is held in place at the bottom with a metal stand off I get from Perfectflite, which is screwed into 4-40 threads I cut into the thicker angle and sled. I also cut threads into the angle to attach the sled with 4-40 screws. The upper attachment is done with a nylon screw, tube and nut.
When the coupler/sled is mounted into the nosecone, there is about 1.5" from the top of the stubby antenna to the bottom of the metal tip. I added the old Blackhawk nosecone to this picture, for reference. It has a smaller tip and is slightly longer than the Mongoose N/C.
016%203.jpg


Finally getting to the "loose ends" part of the build. I still need to drill shear pin holes, put together the main chute deployment and do ejection charge tests, but this build might finally get done this week. Normally, I build in the summer, when the AZ heat keeps you inside and helps the epoxy cure faster. This build could be finished in a couple of weeks, instead of the three months this has taken me.
Thanks for hanging in with me, and as usual, post up any questions you might have. If I can't answer them, I'm sure someone else will....
 
I like your method of adding the GPS unit to the NC assembly. I will keep that in mind as an alternative to my version. BTW, what is the weight of your completely assembled GPS NC unit (less any hardware connected to the eye bolt)?? Mine weighs 384.2g

Just like to see comparative data...

Forgot to ask, does anyone know the manufacturer & type/model no. for those forged SS eye bolts that come with the Mongoose 54 kit?
 
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Nice NC tracker. Reminds me of my GD38 I haven't had a chance to fly yet. I had to use the room in the coupler so cut the G10 with notches. No room for pem nuts so I simply tapped the coupler for 2/56. I have to be careful with torquing the screws
but I think it'll hold. Using a TeleGPS and needed the length for the antenna.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-community-build-thread&p=1448195#post1448195

Kurt Savegnago
 
I like your method of adding the GPS unit to the NC assembly. I will keep that in mind as an alternative to my version. BTW, what is the weight of your completely assembled GPS NC unit (less any hardware connected to the eye bolt)?? Mine weighs 384.2g

Just like to see comparative data...

Forgot to ask, does anyone know the manufacturer & type/model no. for those forged SS eye bolts that come with the Mongoose 54 kit?

Mine weighs in at 418 grams, with the 800 mah battery being the main difference. I have had recoveries at Eagle Eye that take a while to get to, some in excess of three miles, so I like to know that the EF will still be working when I get close. The terrain out there usually requires a good bit of hiking, even with a 4 WD vehicle.
The eyebolts that come with this kit can be purchased on Amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LGYVSPU?keywords=1%2F4%26%2334%3B-20%20x%2017%2F32%26%2334%3B%20316%20Stainless%20Steel%20Shoulder%20Pattern%20Machinery%20Eye%20Bolt&qid=1454356609&ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_1&sr=8-1-fkmr0

 
Wayco,

Did I read somewhere that in your drogue section you were using either a 12" chute or a streamer? If a streamer, what material and dimensions?

Thanks for the reminder wighty, I did a quick and dirty drogue recovery system last week to get an idea how much this rocket will weigh, and haven't documented any of it. Today, I reworked the entire recovery for the drogue and the main and got some pic's of it all.

I have used 25 ft. ripstop streamers for the drogue on several of my other 54mm rockets, but ran out with the last one I built. Since I don't like to move stuff around between rockets, I dug through my stash and found a small drogue I got from Aerocon. They list it as an 18", but it's more like 14". I like it because it has nylon ribbon for shroud lines. I think it's original purpose was as a military flare chute. Here is a link for it:

https://aeroconsystems.com/cart/all-parachutes/18-inch-hexagonal-parachute/

I'm using 18 ft. of 1/4" kevlar cord with a couple of pieces of 9/16" tubular nylon sewn on in strategic places to reduce the chance of the fincan cutting the shock cord or the shock cord zippering the fincan. I also added a piece to tape my CSI tracker to:
001%203.jpg


The quick link on the drogue is 1/8" stainless, and the one to the avbay is an oddball size that Wildman sells, smaller that 1/4" and bigger than the 1/8". I make my own nomex pads and pouches, and use Scotch green masking tape to help keep the hot burning black powder off critical parts. The pouch in the picture is a little large, but everything fits in and a bit of a push gets the shear pins in. I also drilled the 5/64" shear pin holes for the fincan and nosecone.
When I weighed the rocket last week, I had almost everything in it except the Main chute. It weighed in at about 4 lbs. so I pulled out a Top flight 45" chute for it's first flight. Since I have an RRC-3 as my primary altimeter, I will get descent rates for both chutes and can adjust from there. Plenty of room in the payload tube, so no problem fitting it all in:
003%204.jpg


Once again, I'm using green masking tape to protect the 20 ft. of kevlar shock cord and another strip of tubular nylon where it comes out of the payload tube. More stainless quick links at the eyebolts, with 1/8" at the nosecone and what I think is 3/16" at the avbay and at the chute.

About all I have left is to do the ejection charge tests, I will post up the results sometime this week. If there is anything else I forgot, let me know.

 
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Do you know the rating of the braided Kevlar? It looks very much like some I have that is rated at 2,000 LBF.

When you do your ground test let use know how much BP you used. My calcs suggest about 0.5g should work (for altitudes below 15K). Thoughts?

I used 3 nylon shear screws in the payload section and 2 in the drogue section. Applied my first set of RP5000 fillets today. My first time working with that epoxy, but they came out nice. I did learn that I was a tad wide on my edge masking and had to trim the edges down with an alcohol dipped cloth.

Also it seems I must work more slowly than you as I was able finish only one fin before the remaining epoxy mix became too stiff to spread on the other fin... I'll use smaller batches.
 
Just finished the last fin fillets on my MG54. This was my first use of RP5500 and thanks to Wayco's instructions I was able to end up with a decent result. I didn't quite get that full mirror finish as Wayco even though I used a heat source to try to coax them to the surface - a few pin-point bubbles remained. Still quite pleased with the job.MG54_Fillets_020316.jpg
 
Do not sweat a few pin holes, it'll be plenty strong. Best fillet epoxy I ever used was called PowerPoxy Weld that unfortunately went out of production. Company disappeared one day. Was heavy but dang it was strong.
I could reflow it a couple of times by hitting it with heat and by golly that really got it to soak into plywood fins.
Had an unsalvageable mishap and dissected the fins out of the cardboard tube of a 4" diameter rocket.
The epoxy fillet of course stripped away from the cardboard tube but I COULD NOT snap it off the fin root with my fingers, I had to chisel it off! Man that was strong. The stuff was pretty heavy though but not a problem on a long neck rocket.

Rocketpoxy looks good and I've done some fillets with the pricey Cotronics 4525IP stuff that were nice on a first generation Dominator 4.

Kurt
 
Wlldman's webpage lists 1/4" Kevlar as having 3600 lbs. breaking strength. Today's ejection tests gave me vigorous results with .7 grams for the drogue and 1 gram for the Main. I also checked the programming on both the RRC-3 and the SLCF. The RRC-3 is set as primary with main deployment at 1100 ft. The SLCF is programmed as backup with the main at 900 ft. and drogue +1 second past apogee.

Your fillets look a lot like some of mine in the past. The more you work with it, the better it will get.

Next launch is on the 20th of Feb. and I will hopefully get my first flight in with a J250.
I have one more task to finish this rocket up, apply the decal.
:w:
 
...Today's ejection tests gave me vigorous results with .7 grams for the drogue and 1 gram for the Main.
How many, of what size nylon shear screws do you have in each section?
Your fillets look a lot like some of mine in the past. The more you work with it, the better it will get.
I thought as much, but most of my rocket's fin fillets are placed internally. This is the first external fillet I've done in quite a while...
 
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How many, of what size nylon shear screws do you have in each section?

I use two 2-56 nylon shear screws in my 54mm rockets. Remember that I mounted my internal motor retainer up higher in the fincan to accommodate the Kosdon and Loki snap ring cases. I have less than 9" for my drogue, CSI tracker and shock cord, and 1 5/8" of that are taken up with the 30/06 shell casings and eyebolt. Which brings up today's saga.

I thought I had one last thing to do today, apply the decal. Figured it would only take a bit of time and I could post up pictures of my completed rocket. Since I have a bunch of rockets with Stickershock decals, it should be a breeze, right? NOT! This particular decal must have been left out in the heat or something, it didn't want to release from the backing paper. I struggled with it for over an hour but finally got it on:

009%204.jpg


That wasn't the end of the adventure unfortunately. Before I could take that picture, I wanted to build the J250 skid and fit the all thread and Aeropac adapter into the rocket to show off the tapered rear closure. First problem was finding my 2 grain casing. When I did find it, it was already loaded into my Lil' Rascal, fortunately it already had a J250 in it. So I removed the standard rear closure and installed the tapered closure, then removed the black powder ejection charge and installed the adapter. Next I pulled out all my 5/16" allthread and Aeropac spacers and found a combination that would fit my Mongoose:
010%205.jpg


The aluminum all thread on the left is sized for the CTI 2 grain casing in my Blackhawks. The couplers and extensions were added to make up the difference between the Blackhawk fincan and the Mongoose fincan:
013%204.jpg


When I went to remove the internal retainer from the tube, it was jammed, so I grabbed a long dowel and smacked it, nothing happened, so I smacked it a little harder.... End result was the bulkhead breaking off the short piece of coupler:
002%204.jpg


It took a bit more than a little smack to achieve this, but my day was turning out to be a series of "smacks" so to speak. No problem, just a little sanding, an fresh coat of peanut butter and all is well:
005%203.jpg


008%204.jpg


Back to the motor retainer, and a little trick I learned when using the Aeropac adapter. Be sure to tape down the upper plug, especially if you have to unscrew the motor from a glued in internal motor retainer:
011%205.jpg


Tighten down all the jam nuts so only the all thread turns. My first MD rocket had the retainer glued in, and I like to never got the motor out after it's first flight.
Now I'm thinking about yesterday's ejection tests, and how hard it was to get the fincan shear pins in. I was stuffing too much stuff into that small space between the retainer and the avbay, maybe that was why my retainer was jammed? I decided to make one more change before I called this job done. I dug back into my small chute box and found a thin mill 12" Top flite chute and exchanged it for the Milsurp chute I had in there. Made it a lot easier to install the two shear pins in the fincan. Since I have done a bunch of drogueless recoveries with this size rocket, even if the little 12" chute fails, I should get back down to main deployment altitude with no trouble.
So, I'm calling this build done, but I have a little teaser for those of you that are still following my ramblings. I built the carbon fiber Mongoose 75 back in 2014, and started the CF Mongoose 54 in 2015. Sure, it took me three months to finish it, but who's counting? I have one more Mongoose in my build pile. Anyone want to guess how big it is and who made it?
I think I have time to build it this year, and I promise it won't take me as long as this build did. That's all the clues you get...
 

Anyone want to guess how big it is and who made it?
I think I have time to build it this year, and I promise it won't take me as long as this build did. That's all the clues you get...

Me thinks since you have done the 54 & 75......you'll skip the 98 and go to the 6in. ???????

and no you didn't tell me, it's just a guess.
 
I use two 2-56 nylon shear screws in my 54mm rockets...
Ok. I use the same nylon 2-56 shear screws. For comparison, I typically use 3 screws in the payload section, and 2 screws in the booster section. A configuration I've used on several DD rockets that has served me well.

Because I'm a math & science "guy" (I try...) I'm still trying to understand your BP charge sizes - I assume you're using 4FG.

In the booster section you have ~9" of space, I have 11.5" (E-bay bulkhead - MD retainer) . Your charge is 1.0g, mine calculates to 0.75g, which produces 28.6psi (104 LBF) easily shearing 3 nylon screws.

In the payload section I have ~14" of space (E-bay bulkhead - NC Bulkhead). I assume your space is close to that. Your charge is 0.7g, mine calculates to 0.6g, which produces 27.8psi (101 LBF) easily shearing 2 nylon screws.

Perhaps your charges are larger because you can achieve higher altitudes that we can legally get to in my area - 8K in my club, and 17K at MDRA. Or it may just be that you're more comfortable with larger charges?

I'd really like to know if there's something I failed to consider since there's always room to learn something new... :wink:
 
Today's ejection tests gave me vigorous results with .7 grams for the drogue and 1 gram for the Main.

Ok. I use the same nylon 2-56 shear screws. For comparison, I typically use 3 screws in the payload section, and 2 screws in the booster section. A configuration I've used on several DD rockets that has served me well.

Because I'm a math & science "guy" (I try...) I'm still trying to understand your BP charge sizes - I assume you're using 4FG.

In the booster section you have ~9" of space, I have 11.5" (E-bay bulkhead - MD retainer) . Your charge is 1.0g, mine calculates to 0.75g, which produces 28.6psi (104 LBF) easily shearing 3 nylon screws.

In the payload section I have ~14" of space (E-bay bulkhead - NC Bulkhead). I assume your space is close to that. Your charge is 0.7g, mine calculates to 0.6g, which produces 27.8psi (101 LBF) easily shearing 2 nylon screws.

Perhaps your charges are larger because you can achieve higher altitudes that we can legally get to in my area - 8K in my club, and 17K at MDRA. Or it may just be that you're more comfortable with larger charges?

I'd really like to know if there's something I failed to consider since there's always room to learn something new... :wink:

My drogue charge of .7 grams of 4f black powder is in what you call the booster. I call it the fincan. The main charge of 1 gram is in the payload. I don't calculate, I estimate and test until I get satisfactory results. My estimates are based on successful flights with similar rockets. I also have the advantage of redundant systems, the backup SLCF altimeter will fire slightly larger charges.

Me thinks since you have done the 54 & 75......you'll skip the 98 and go to the 6in. ???????

and no you didn't tell me, it's just a guess.

I do have a 6 inch rocket, but it's already built. Pretty sure if they made a CF 6" Mongoose, I couldn't afford it. Nice dream though...
 
..I don't calculate, I estimate and test until I get satisfactory results. My estimates are based on successful flights with similar rockets. I also have the advantage of redundant systems...
Than you for the information - experience works! ;)

My Mongoose 54 build only needs to have the altimeter LiPo mounted on the 38mm 3D printed sled, but it has an Ultra Mini connector that in my opinion does not provide a sturdy connection with the mating connector. So I'm replacing the connector with the JST type (on order).

Thank you for this build topic! Besides providing new build methods, I learned a lot from our discussions...

Good luck with the first flight on the J250. Let us know the details - altitude, etc.
 
Like Wayco, my Mongoose 54 is finished but not ready to go up until I ground test my separation charges and that will not happen until the local weather improves.

Unlike Wayco, I have made a provision for using 38mm motors that does not violate the integrity of the 54mm design. I did this because the only 2 HPR launch sites in NJ have limited waivers (5K & 8K respectively) and it doesn't take much of a motor to send the Mongoose to those altitudes.

Here are my motor retention accessories and 38mm motor adapter:
MG54_Acc_021716.jpg
 
Like Wayco, my Mongoose 54 is finished but not ready to go up until I ground test my separation charges and that will not happen until the local weather improves.

Unlike Wayco, I have made a provision for using 38mm motors that does not violate the integrity of the 54mm design. I did this because the only 2 HPR launch sites in NJ have limited waivers (5K & 8K respectively) and it doesn't take much of a motor to send the Mongoose to those altitudes.

Here are my motor retention accessories and 38mm motor adapter:
View attachment 282727

That looks great! Maybe I should do the same for my Tomach. It gets out of sight fast, even on 54mm1G!
 
Wlldman's webpage lists 1/4" Kevlar as having 3600 lbs. breaking strength. Today's ejection tests gave me vigorous results with .7 grams for the drogue and 1 gram for the Main. I also checked the programming on both the RRC-3 and the SLCF. The RRC-3 is set as primary with main deployment at 1100 ft. The SLCF is programmed as backup with the main at 900 ft. and drogue +1 second past apogee.

Your fillets look a lot like some of mine in the past. The more you work with it, the better it will get.

Next launch is on the 20th of Feb. and I will hopefully get my first flight in with a J250.
I have one more task to finish this rocket up, apply the decal.
:w:

I am assuming your are planning for the airfield site? If so, I'm also planning on coming down if all goes well. Would be great to introduce myself as I get back into things after a three year hiatus. Gotta see this project fly. Nice job. OZ...
 
That looks great! Maybe I should do the same for my Tomach. It gets out of sight fast, even on 54mm1G!
Exactly why I wanted to find a way to use both 38 & 54mm motors. I want to get a few lower altitude flights in to get acquainted with the rocket's performance & GPS tracking system - my first use of GPS - before sending it into the 10K+ regions.

Walk before you run...
 
I am assuming your are planning for the airfield site? If so, I'm also planning on coming down if all goes well. Would be great to introduce myself as I get back into things after a three year hiatus. Gotta see this project fly. Nice job. OZ...

Yeah, Airfield site. It's funny that you are coming from Cottonwood, my sister just moved there and is planning on coming out Saturday with my mom. We shouldn't be hard to find, AZ flag and a tie-dyed windsock about 20 ft. long.
IMG_6444.jpg


Now I understand why Mike is adapting his Mongoose down to 38mm. I think the Phoenix metro area is larger than New Jersey, so I kinda understand.
I agree with Watermelonman, it's hard to fly this rocket and keep it in sight. The 2 grain J250 should take it over 6k.

I ran into a problem when I started prepping this rocket, one of the 6-32 pem nuts came loose inside the avbay, so I had to drill out the screw. As I stated before, I'm not happy how they looked, so I redid the whole mess with 4-40 screws and pem nuts. I used black Rocketpoxy to fill the holes in, and re-drilled and countersunk for the smaller screws. It came out a lot better, much easier to work with Rocketpoxy than with carbon fiber. This time I used Rocketpoxy to hold the pem nuts in place. I think the carbon fiber is so thin and brittle, it doesn't hold the pem nuts like fiberglass does.
I also noticed that I had failed to drill vent holes in the payload tube and fincan, so I added 1/8" holes at the top of the payload tube and above the internal retainer on the fincan. After I added the decal, I sprayed it with clear Rustoleum acrylic lacquer. If anybody has checked out my latest build thread, you may have seen these pictures of my Mongoose family:
014.jpg


The rockets in the background are some of the ones we will be flying this weekend with the Superstition Spacemodeling Society. This is my old NAR club that has some issues with HPR flights due to the I-10 freeway nearby. I won't be flying the Mongoose 75 there, or anything over about 8000 ft.
Here is the Mongoose 54 with it's new clearcoat, ready for it's maiden flight:
001.jpg


I will also be trying out the fly away rail guides for the first time. Wish me luck!

 
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